LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 



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aielf-.v.B-lS" 



UNITED STATES OF AMKKICA. 



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iSnS I HAVE MET".jr|^ jEEN 
PEOPitisss® Things I f^zr^^^ 



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Wa\. S. Kia\ball c^ Cc 

FRflGRflNT UH.NITY FAIR, 
aii& Superlntluc Glonrcttce. 




KIMBALL'S Straight Cut Cigarettes. 



Mew ©SBURN Mouse, ^^^Mif^^?^^^ 



Rt )ci n-:wriiR. N. V. 



iiSlillPl^i 



appointments, has recently been enla 
by the addition of seventy beautiful rooms, single 
and en suite, and has been thoroughly repainted, 
refitted, and refurnished, making it the most com- 
plete hotel' in the city. 

Rates $2,00 and $2.50 per day. 
Free Bus, ELMER E. ALMY. 




Ooo handsomely furnished ruoms ai Si.oo per day 1 
aod tipwHrds. European Plan. t 

First-class Resiaiiranl, Dining Rooms, Cafe andl 
Lunch Counter. -» la tarU, al moderate prices. 

Guests' Baggage to and from Grand Centkai 

Rooms where ladies and gentlemen may check 
valises, coats, parcels, etc., without charge. 

Travelers arriving via Grand Central Depot save 
Carriage-hire and Baggage Express by stopping 
at ihc Grand Union. 

Travelers can live well at the Grand Unio^ for 
less money than at any other first-class hotel in [ 






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T-HEiQUEENSlHOTEL, 



TORONTO. 






ELECTRIC BELLS, EI.E\-.\ 1 1 -1;- l,\lll 

O-OVEKN-OR-O-ENERAIL. 



I Tl 



McGAW & WINNETT, - Proprietors. 



Famous for One-Third of a Century. 

Tl^^Sf.bAWi'enq^llAil, 



IP 



'1^ I John MrKrar & Go.-s 



heKry hogan. 



S. CARSLEY, 

N TRE Dane S reft m n 






ESTABLISH VU NT 




I \\LN + I;k\ + CtOODS, 

III) 1113 Ue Ami St CohSI PiltiSI 
MOMTREAL 



|S'g!E^!><g 



l^iee,5^fpt^^& Soqi^ 



Watches. Jewelry, 

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CLOCKS. Bronzes. 
Silverware. Crystal Gasaliers. 



167a AND 1680 NOTRE DAME STREET. 
MONTREAL. 



St. -lOUliS JrffQ'T£^. I c. w. clarkcs 

Palroniied by Their Excellencies the Governor General of Cunada I 

..c»,..«™. I "UNIVERSAL" 



Pamcy (^oods, Art tooDs, 

Ltaltei GooJs, Pine lit Eooils, Noveltits, Etc, 
BOOKS t^"" STATIONERY. 




This Hole) which IS unrmled for sue stile and 
localuj IQ Quebec is optn ilirough th( \cir for 
pleisure nod business irnti lii\ing iccommodition 



WILLIAM E. RUSSELL, 



BEST liNGLISi-I POCKET CUTLERY. 



LADIES' AND GENTS' DRESSING CASES, Eic. 



G, W- CURKE. - 238 and 240 St James St. 



^. ©RYSD/ILD & ®0., 

','232 St. James Street, 
MONTREAL'S LEADING BOOK STORE, 

BOOKS 

IN EVERY DEPBRTMENT OF LITERBTURE. 

"APBERIGAN AdJTHORS," 



KItws of Moitieal M SI Lai/ience Riiei Tinrists I 




Conteetionepy, Coffee, 

and buneheon Roori. 



Pure Confeetionepy, 

CHARLES ALEXANDER, 



eotsljal mountoins, R. Y. 



Rccommadatss 1,300. Open Juns to 
Ociabsr, 



% 



Winter Porlj, Pto. 



Open JanUBrg to May. Mccommodatgs 
400. 



W. F. PAIGE. - - PROPRIETOR. 



THE DELAWARE & HUDSON R.R. 

ADIRONDACK MOllNTfllNS! 



THE SHORTEST ROUTE BETWEEN 

NEW YORK AMD MONTREAL 



J. W. BURDICK, G,nlPa„.ABt, 
H. G. YOIINO, Genl Man. Amm, ,v. 



LAKE VIEW HOUSE Au-iABLE CHASM 




] 







^ 



by tt 5 

and • i 

refitt. 

pletej. 



Free 



i=i 



CONGRESS SPRING. 



THE STANDARD MINERAL WATER, 



lability that uiually 



CONGRESS SPRING CO., 



f HE S AGANiggg, 



Ctlusie }iaU and Ball Room. 



JUNE :23d UNTIL OCTOBER 1st. 



Its Location the Finest on the Lake 

THE TABLE IS EXCELLENT, 

THE SERVICE UNSURPASSED. 



M. O. BROWN, 



Only All Rail Route lo TliousamI Isl.mds 



GREAT HIGHWAY AND FAVORITE ROUTE 



For Tourist Travel 

■WEST AND EAST. 

®iME, TOBTOIS 



NIAGfiRflFALLS& SUSPENSION BRIDGE 
THOUSAND ISLANDS, 



6RPD ORN'l-R'/IL HOTEL 



>. 



■■i-iillliiyj 






JTTRACTIONS OF THE GRAND CENTRAL HOTK. 



THE S.^FE^^T HOTEL IN AMEBIC/ 
FAYMAN 4 SPRAGUE, Proprietor 



nm ^TE? IIOTEL. BOSTON. 


0^ 



TILiy HJVNtS, Uiiled SlllDS Hllel, BOSTON, Hiss. 



B0ST0[4. 



UNEXCEPTIONABLE TABLE. 

FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 



an Plan, 33.00 per Day and upwnrdl 
only, 1.00 



REFITTED AND GREATLY IIVIPROV£i 



HENRY B. RICE & CO., Prop'l 



TRAVELERS 

I)()»ii t he ,St. Laurciu-c and 
all over the Earth, 

Arc I.iabli; to Crintract some Kidin.7 



DisordiT. 



TAtr^ should aititiiys tarry :vii!, 
tktm tJltCrtatl^ 



#^^*' 



#^^ 



Sys/cin Rfgii/tilfli, 

BLOOD TONIC AND 
IH'RIFIKR. 

A World Famed Specific. 



TRAVELERS 

Down the St. Lawrence and 
all over the Earth, 

Are Liable to Contract some Kidney 

Disorder. 

They should alivays carry with ^ ^ 
them the Great IM^ ^\\vV % 

System Reo-itlator^ 



BLOOD TONIC 


AND 


PURIFIER. 


A Wore Famec Specific. 

:^__.. ^— -•■1 ■ 



TME 



44 



PhAT DOY'S 



55 



15 Y^^T'^ ^^" the St. Lawrence. 



the reof^le met .^nd the 
xhixCtS seen. 



f\ i- Qalde +' for * 7oiJrist5 ^ a^d * Jrayq\(^rs. 



SEVENTH EDITION. COPYRIGHTED, .18SS. 



/ 

E. F. BA8BAGE, Publisher. 




ROCHESTER, N. V. : 

DEMOCRAT AND CHRONICLK PRINT, 47 & 40 EAST .MAIN STKEET. 
1888. 






^Z(o ^z-^>-Ml 



INTRODUCTION. 



IN presenting this work, " The Phat Boy's Fifteen 
Years on the St. Lawrence River," I am aware 
that financial or personal ends are always the para- 
mount object to be attained by an individual who puts 
forth anything^ in this world. I therefore plead guilty 
to the above charge, and for so doing propose to 
give to the tourist or traveler down this grandest 
of trips, a faithful description of every point of 
interest that meets the eye of the beholder. 

The people I have met and the things I have seen 
is an outgrowth of the seven editions that have been 
issued by me and cheerfully received by the public. 
It is the only correct guide for the tourist or traveler 
down this majestic stream as it is compiled from the 
thousand and one questions answered, that was 
asked me by parties who passed down the trip during 
my ten years of service as " Guide to the St. 
Lawrence." It is but honesty and good faith to state 
what prompted this issue. 

I feel capable of compiling a book which, although 
it does not contain any pictorial illustrations of 
the scenic beauty connected with the trip, I am 
confident that a plain, unvarnished description of all 



the various points of interest would be sufficient. 
The tourist can thus feast the eye on a thousand 
pictures that a volume ten times this size could not 
contain, for no matter how often you open the eyes 
during the day, they will fall upon some delightful 
scene, where the God of Nature has smiled upon her, 
within an hour. Neither have I given a highly 
colored description of the Rapids ; they have been 
viewed and described by thousands, and the effect 
produced is as varied in character as the individual 
writers differed in temperament and looks. 

Trusting this volume may meet with as cheerful a 
greeting by the public as it has always accorded my 
efforts to please, and if its perusal causes the weary or 
lonesome traveler one hour of mirth or pleasure, its 
mission will have been accomplished. 

Respectfully yours, 

E. F. BABBAGE, "Phat Boy," 

Guide to the St. Lawrence. 



THE "PHAT BOY'S" 15 YEARS 

ON 

THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 



THE St. Lawrence River, with its Thousand Islands 
and Rapids, is day by day attracting more and 
more attention among tourists. There is so much 
that is grand, weird, sublime and exhilarating in the 
scenery and balmy atmosphere of the majestic river, 
as it passes in its onward flow from the lake to the 
gulf, that we need not for a moment wonder why it 
is that there is a great annual increase in the number 
of those intelligent people, who, from East, West 
and South, repair to its placid waters in summer to 
recuperate their wasted energies and enjoy that 
luxuriating season known to every American as 
"vacation." 

A vacation on the St. Lawrence means a sojourn at 
some pretentious or lowly cottage, or at some hotel 
of either class for a few days, or for one, two or more 
weeks, as the time, finances and inclination of the 
indidual may dictate; or it may, as in hundreds of 
instances it does, only include a voyage of rapid 
transit from New York to Utica, Clayton, Niagara 
Falls, Lewiston, Toronto or Kingston to Alexandria 
Bay or Montreal, then return home. There are 
several different popular starting places to reach the 
river ; it is presumed you will take the most conven- 
ient one, and we will consider ourselves pleased with 
the selection. 



HERE IS WHERE YOU BEGIN, 

dear reader, to peruse an effort of mine which has 
taken up my leisure moments for the past eight 
months ; it is not a physical effort, or it would have 
been larger, but being a literary one is a good reason 
why it can be held within such a small space as two 
hundred pages. A physical effort anywhere near my 
size you would have very little use for. While trav- 
eling where could you store it away ? No sardine 
box would hold it. You could not put it into a satchel 
or trunk nor tuck it away in any little convenient 
place. But this little volume can be carried most 
anywhere. I have tried to make it of such a desirable 
size that it can rest secure in the coat pocket, shawl- 
strap or in the hand. It is a dose for an adult, not to 
be shaken before taken, as you are expected to shake 
until your sides ache before you get through it ; do 
not be in a hurry ; take it easy, it is more pleasant 
that way. Do not feel offended if your name is not 
mentioned among "The People I have met." Think 
what a large head it would take to contain all I have 
passed through ; but console yourself that you may 
be among " The things I have seen." 

It is a pleasure as well as a duty to state that I 
am indebted to Mr. George C. Havvley, Stenographer, 
who so ably assisted me in taking my dictation for 
this work. 

^^ DON'T DO IT." 

This startling head-line, when it strikes the eye, 
denotes that there is something to be said of personal 
benefit to the reader of the article, and we hope to 



make it pleasant as well as profitable to those who 
take the time to peruse it. To begin with, we desire 
to say, don't get fat ; do not allow yourself to 
develop beyond the line which is laid down for the 
average man or woman ; because, if you do, the 
average chair will not fit, the average seat in a rail- 
road coach will be too small ; you will be obliged to 
shrink into it, and then take up the seat of another 
after you get in. The same trouble will occur at 
amusements, which you enjoy very much, but it so 
distorts you to occupy the chair that the pleasure is 
lost ; the average door to a hack is too small, and 
so is the omnibus, and you are obliged to walk. 
Here you will enjoy it, especially if it is a little slip- 
pery, dropping now and then three hundred and 
thirty pounds, because your friend thinks it does not 
hurt a fat man to fall. You will get no sympathy 
from any one ; this I guarantee, because I have tried 
it. By way of illustration, if I had not eaten any- 
thing for three days but a yard of pump water, 
and was to come to a friend and say I was hungry, 
and had not had anything to eat for three da)?s, 
he would look me all over, and in reply would 
say: ''Well, I guess you can stand it until next 
fall." So the fleshier you are, the less sympathy 
you get ; and if Dr. Tanner stood it for forty days, 
you have sufficient fat to last you six months, to 
say the least. Second, you become, as it were, a 
curiosity, and all look at you with amazement and 
wonder what circus or side show you escaped from, 
or to what dime museum you belong. Third, there 
isn't anything made for the average man that will fit 
you, therefore everything must be made to order that 



8 

you wear, except a necktie, pair of socks or handker- 
chief. The latter must be seven-eighths of a yard 
wide in order to hold the perspiration it will mop up 
in once passing over your manly brow. Fourth, 
when at the age of 21, and weighing 225 pounds, I 
had no trouble in making a selection of a partner for 
life. She climbed the golden stairs about seven years 
ago, and now I am fair, fat, funny and forty ; would 
pass in a crowd for thirty-nine, if my daughter was 
not around. If I find one now who loves a fat man — 
I am a little too fat — therefore, this world is a very 
chilly one for me. 

After you have become a little above the average 
size, as I have in development, and are conspicuous, 
everybody will know you ; if they do not, it will be 
easy for them to find out ; all they are obliged to do 
is to ask anyone. You will not know only those of 
your relations and friends very near to you. Then 
this world will be very lonesome and cold, or your 
experience will be different from mine. No one 
will ever ask you to " get in and take a ride," no 
matter* what the circumstances may be — as they think 
of forty accidents that might occur, and you are too 
large a body for the average springs or seat in any 
vehicle. It would be a treat (were you not sensitive) 
if you could walk one block and hear the expressions 
that come from the vulgar throng as they pass. One 
female, with eyes like two saucers, exclaimed : "Glory 
be to the father, Mary Ann, phwat's that?" And 
another says, "Gott in himmel, what a fat man," or a 
lady of color declare, "Umph ! Umph ! ! Dat am de 
biggest man I ebber seed." 



JAMES B. COLGATE. 

The " Old Bullion," as he is termed on Wall Street, 
New York, with his family and some friends,: 
made a trip from New York and Niagara Falls 
down the St. Lawrence River, spending a couple 
of days at Niagara, crossing^ the lake, remaining one 
day at Toronto, embarked in a steamer of the Richelieu 
Ontario Navigation Company at two o'clock p. m. for 
Montreal, arriving at Kingston early the next morning. 
I was added to the passengers' list, and in my capacity 
as guide to the river, commenced, as soon as we left 
port, to make the- trip pleasant to every one by 
giving the points of interest as we passed. After 
taking from my pocket my tobacco box, I partook of 
some of its contents and was just placing it back 
again when a very fine-looking white-haired gentle- 
man approached me and said : "Sir, do you use 
tobacco ?" I said, "Yes sir, I do." He said, "VVill you 
have the kindness to give me a chew ?" I said, "Yes 
sir, with pleasure, it is always pleasant for me to give 
any man a chew of tobacco." Presenting him with the 
box he proceeded to take a quantity sufficient for 
himself and resumed his seat. In about a minute he 
returned and said, " Myself and friend left 
home each provided with what we thought was 
tobacco enough for the trip, but the amount ran 
out at Niagara Falls, and we were unable to procure 
any there such as we were used to chewing, plain 
tobacco, and we have been without a chew of tobacco 
since we left Niagara, unable to obtain any at 
Toronto. Tliis being plain, can we procure some of 
you?" I said, "Yes, you are welcome to any amount 



lO 



you like. I have a pound of W, S. Kimball's plain 
chewing tobacco, manufactured at Rochester, New 
York^ a brand which I have been using for the past 
fifteen years. When he first commenced to manufacture 
it he cut one pail per day, and now cuts five hundred." 
I gave him a box full, and I never saw depicted on 
any mortal's face, resignation, pleasure, joy and satis- 
faction than on his, for when a man wants a chew of 
tobacco that has been without it for twenty-four hours 
and his desire had been unexpectedly gratified, he 
didn't know how to pay me for the kindness of the 
accommodation. If he had have paid me in propor- 
tion for the benefits he derived, or seemed to have 
derived, it would have taken half his fortune, and 
he is said to be worth a million. I made the 
trip pleasant as I could for them until the Indian 
pilot came on board, when one of the gentlemen 
approached me and handed me a ten dollar bill as a 
token of their appreciation for services rendered. I 
politelv declined accepting it, saying that the steam- 
boat line and the hotel I had the honor to represent 
paid me for making the trip a pleasant one, and I 
therefore could not receive any compensation. Then 
he said, "You can give it to the Indian pilot," which 
I did. This little act endeared me more in the 
estimation of the faithful pilot than ever, and from 
that time on I could always get him to shake the 
hand of any passenger who expressed a desire to 
do so. I have presented as many as ten ladies in 
a day who requested the honor of taking him by the 
hnnd. 



II 



AUNT AND I. 

I receive many invitations during the season to 
accompany parties on their fishing tours and pic-nics 
among the islands. Refused many last year, but 
accepted one. The party consisted of ten persons, 
with their chartered yacht, the Claud S. Leaving the 
Bay at 8 o'clock, a. m., we were at 9:45 at the point 
selected for the fishing pleasure and dinner. The gen- 
tlemen very quietly selected their boats and fisher- 
men and were quickly off for fish, leaving me to attend 
to and amuse the ladies. After the captain and engi- 
neer of the yacht had arranged wraps, mats, folding- 
chairs and a hammock for each of the party, we 
roamed the woods during the interim and returned to 
rest at will. Lying down upon a knoll on a mat, the 
ladies around me, I recited for their amusement, 
*' Pat's Dream of Heaven." When in the most pathetic 
part I felt something creeping up my shin-bone with 
a determined business-like tread. What could it be? 
My thoughts were wandering from the subject. In 
any other position or at any other time I would not 
care. I became nervous, my manhood was aroused, 
my feelings must not be trifled with. I determined 
to make a serious line in the poem funny, so I coula 
slap my knee and at the same time kill the vermin, 
I made the effort but it did not work. The blow made 
me feel as if a bar of pig-iron had been shot through 
my limbs. The ladies looked at me as if scared, 
thinking I might have an attack of the J. J.'s, or worse. 
On my face was a number seven smile, while my brow 
was knit smoking hot with rage." J could not excuse 
myself to go and see a man. No I no ! What could 



12 



I do ? At this moment up jumped Miss Alice. She 
jumped again and again, turned red in the face, 
grabbed her skirts tightly with both hands, ran for 
the woods saying: " Get out ! get out!" It is sup- 
posed there was just ants enough for two. Dinner 
was announced and there were two who could do 
the subject justice, Alice and I. 

IF YOU GUESS WHAT IT IS YOU MAY 

HAVE IT. 

The conumdrum which these head lines indicate 
came to me in the shape of a short, thick-set old 
gentleman, who asked of me numerous questions/ 
all of which were answered cheerfully, but when I 
attempted to ask him one, he took from his vest 
pocket the following, which you can peruse, dear 
reader, and ponder over, and if you can guess who 
tlie author of it is, you will perform what I was 
unable to fathom. 

LETTER OF THE CADI. 



IMAUM ALI ZADE 

TO AN ENGl.lSHMAX WHO HAD ENQUIRED CONCERNING THE POPULATION, 
lU'SINKSS ANP rKEVIOUS HISTORY OF HIS CITY. 

From Layard^s Ninerat . 

My Illustrious Friend and Jov of my liver ! The 
thing you ask is both difficult and useless. Although 
I have passed all my days in this place, I have neither 
counted the houses nor have I inquired into the 
number of the inhabitants ; and as to what one per- 
son loads on his mules and the other stows away in 
the bottom of his ship, that is no business of mine. 
But, above all, as to the previous history of this city, 
God only knows the amount of dirt and confusion 



'3 

that the infidels may have eaten before the coming of 
the bword of Islam. It were unprofitable for us to 
inquire into it. 

Oh, my soul ! oh, my lamb ! seek not after the 
things which concern thee not. Thou camest unto 
us, and we welcomed thee : go in peace. 

Of a truth, thou hast spoken many words ; and 
there is no harm done, for the speaker is one and the 
listener is another. After the fashion of thy people 
•thou hast wandered from one place to another until 
thou art happy and content in none. We (praise be 
to God) were born here and never desire to quit it. 
Is it possible then that the idea of a general inter- 
course between mankind should make any impression 
on our understandings.? God forbid ! 

Listen, oh my son ! There is no wisdom equal to 
the belief in God ! He created the world, and shall 
we liken ourselves unto Him in seeking to penetrate 
into the mysteries of His creation 7 Sluill we say, 
behold this star spinneth round that star, and this 
other star with a tail goeth and cometh in so many 
years! Let it go I He from whose hand it came 
will guide and direct it. 

But thou wilt say unto me, Stand aside, oh man, 
for I am more learned tha^i thou art, and have seen 
more things. If thou thinkest that thou art in this 
respect better than I am, thou art welcome. I praise 
God that I seek not that I require not. Thou are 
learned in the things I care not for ; and as for that 
which thou hast seen, I defile it. Will much knowl- 
edge create thee a double belly, or wilt thou seek 
Paradise with thine eyes ? 

Oh, my friend ! If thou wilt be happy, say. There 
is no God but God ! Do no evil, and thus wilt thou 
fear neither man nor death, for surely thine hour will 
come ! 

The meek in spirit (El Fakir,) 

IMAUM ALI ZADE. 



14 

Messrs. COOK & TOWNSEND, of Roch- 
ester, N. Y., 

have, from time to time in the past, made thousands 
of people pleased with their excursions down the St. 
Lawrence, but for the past two years have been giving 
their attention to European excursions, I hope next 
year to see them bending their energies to again visit 
the majestic St. Lawrence. 

MY MEETING WITH DAVID DUDLEY 

FIELD, OR HOW I EARNED 

TWENTY-TWO CENTS. 

Last season Alexandria Bay was honored with a 
visit from David Dudley Field, the distinguished 
jurist. Seeing one day he was about to be a passenger 
on the boat Island Wanderer for a trip among the 
Islands, I thought I would introduce myself to him, and 
at the same time make him a present of my book and 
map, as it would give him the name of every island, 
cottages and stopping places of the boat on our trip. 
Approaching him I said : "Mr. Field, I have here a 
little book which on page 37 commences a description 
of your trip this afternoon." He took the book out of 
my hand and upon reading the title, said: "I don't 
want anything humorous;" and I remarked that it 
was only humorous where it was not descriptive, and 
if he didn't care for it I had a picture of the St. Law- 
rence River. Before I could say any more he had 
turned the book over and saw. the price of it was 
twenty-five cents, and he commenced going through 
almost a contortion of body, and fumbling in his 
pockets for the twenty-five cents to get rid of me, and 



15 

I saw that his eftbrts were in vain, for all he could 
produce was twenty-two cents, and he forced me to 
take it, notwithstanding the fact that I had said to him 
that I came there for the purpose of making him a 
present of my book, also a picture of the St. Lawrence 
River, which I repeated again. Then he said, "Why 
didn't you do it then," and my answer was, that "You 
didn't give me time, and seeing that you have thrust 
this twenty-two cents upon me, I shall have the 
pleasure of keeping it until I return home, and then 
it shall go in my museum of curiosities. When you 
come and visit me you shall see it." 

HOW WOMEN FISH. 

Having read various descriptions of how fishing 
is carried on by the fair sex at the several watering 
places, permit us to mention some of them. One 
writer said : "Ah ! what joy to have a bite; what rare 
delight to find one's bait gone" — arid it was only by 
the suicidal policy of some water-weary fish who 
chanced to pass our way that we could record one 
fish for our day's sport. How different is the fishing 
at the Bay. 

As an illustration, a very funny anecdote was 
recited to me by Mr. J. C. Covert, editor of the 
Cleveland Leader^ who said, " Talk about ladies 
catching fish, I am somewhat of an angler myself 
and take a great deal of comfort fishing at the Bay. 
The other day I was out fishing with my wife, who, by 
the way, has no pretensions as a captivator of the 
finny tribe, yet she caught seven fish before I had 
time to put my line into the water." This somewhat 
astonished me, and I remarked that he must have 



i6 

been very slow that morning. He answered by 
telling me " No ! On the contrary, I was very 
lively ; all my time was employed taking the fish off 
and baiting her hook." He entered a protest after 
that and let the boatman attend to Mrs. Covert's line 
while he enjoyed the sport. 

A gentleman says of the fishing near the Hudson : 
" The first thing a woman does when she goes fishing 
is to make herself look as hideous aS possible — a sort 
of a cross between the Witch of Endor and Meg 
Merriles. This is done by a hideous straw hat big 
enough to cover a chicken coop, the oldest and most 
unbecoming dress she has got, a pair of gloves six 
sizes too large, and, if possible, rubber boots. And 
the sight of woman, lovely woman, so dressed, 
presents a spectacle of pity." You will not have 
occasion to pity any of the ladies who go fishing 
from the Bay, for they look so jaunty you would 
envy them and their enjoyment as well as fish. I 
have known Mrs. Madden and party to bring home 
30 fish varying in size from a 3X black bass to a 7 

pound pickerel. A friend writes from C Lake, 

telling how he spent a day fishing there, accompanied 
by three ladies and a gentleman friend. "Women 
never step into a boat here, they always jump. Of 
course she slips, tails down, yells for help, nearly 
upsets the boat, and is put to rights by the most 
eligi-ble young man in the party. Nothing will do, 
then, but she must 'row, and she knows as much 
about rowing as a cow does about billiards. She 
handles her oars as if they were trees, splashes every 
one with water, and after half an hour's work she is 
about ten feet away in the wrong direction, when 



T7 

one of the men takes the oars and we are soon at our 
fishing place. She tries to bait her hook, and after 
getting the hook into all her fingers (in fact every- 
where but into the minnow), her friend baits her 
hook, and she throws it out. The first time it catches 
onto one of the ladies' ears, the next throw, into the 
back of the gentleman's neck, and the third time into 
the coat of her friend, who quietly cuts it out (il is 
his best coat), and he gently puts the line into the 
water without saying a cuss word, and says he hopes 
she will catch a whale. After a few moments of 
quiet all are informed she has a bite ; she pulls it in 
steadily to find it is part of the carcass of a dead 
horse. She is soon relieved of the burden and 
catches a small perch. She is so delighted that she 
must let it flop into the faces of every one in the 
boat, tries for twenty minutes to take it off the hook, 
but her fingers are so sore she lets the job out to her 
male companion. One of the other ladies has sat for 
two hours without moving a muscle, while the other, I 
believe, would fish with a hair-pin baited with a piece 
of red flannel hung to a skein of silk in a stationary 
wash-tub, and solemnly declare when she got through 
that she had millions of bites." Dear lady readers, 
we have no such experiences to relate at Alexandria 
Bay. The boats are the prettiest, the fishermen the 
nicest, the fish the largest and best, the boatmen bait 
your hooks. The hotel furnishes the lunch, and you 
are sure to catch fish. When they are cooked and 
you eat your meal served upon an Island, and do 
not say you have had the most pleasant day ever 
spent fishing, draw on me for the balance. P. B. 



i8 



THE GIRLS OF FIFTEEN YEARS AGO. 

Well, " Phat Boy," what has become of the girls of 
fifteen years ago, at the Thousand Islands and the 
Bay ? Oh, they are all alive and kicking ; just as gay 
and giddy as of yore ; twenty-four, no older, and as 
each successive season rolls around they arrive, more 
and more attractive. We would have had electric lights 
last season but they were afraid that their peculiar 
beauty would not stand the light. They are better 
moonlight girls, you know. Yes, the girl of the past, 
God bless her, has come to the St. Lawrence to stay. 

YOU KNOW HER. 

She is one of the strong minded of the female sex, 
and generally has her own way in everything. At 
any rate she stands ready at any and all times to 
combat with any one of the lords of creation, or 
otherwise, who may dispute her sway. We prefer 
your imagination to fill in a description, because it 
would be next to an impossibility for me to do so. 
She has all the requisites: the thin, tall figure, the 
hatchet face, sharp nose, wears glasses, and always 
carries an umbrella. About one each day will pass 
down this route in Summer, except when an Eastern 
or Western Excursion comes; then it will be hard to 
select those who are not of her kind. The first 
object that strikes the eye is our manly figure. After 
looking it well over, she remembers that fat people 
are proverbially jolly and good natured, so she bteaks 
into conversation, and about the first question she 
asks is : " Were you always as large as you are 
now.-*" "Oh, yes ! I was born this size," The answer 



19 

causes her to discover she has left out the word " pro- 
portion." So she apologizes, smiles for the first time, 
and we are friends for the trip. 

WILL HE HAVE IT THERE? 

An English tourist registered at one of the Thousand 
Island Houses, Alexandria Bay, asked the clerk for a 
corner room up one flight, on shady side, a special 
hair boy, meals served in room, a bath and candle, 
instead of gas, steam heat and — "Hold on!" said 
the clerk ; ''I think you have made a mistake; this is 
not heaven." 

IRA SCHAFFER, of New York, 

a legal lord, who so ably defended Thomas Cleary, the 
boodle alderman, of New York, the jury disagreeing, 
six to six, paid the Thousand Islands a visit last season, 
and as we were fellow passengers on a trip around the 
islands one very hot afternoon, we passed the time 
amid the shades of the cabin and talked over old 
times, when fifteen years ago we passed down the 
river from Kingston to Montreal. After exhausting 
that subject we talked on religion, politics, and various 
other topics. Just as we were about to conclude our 
journey it suddenly occurred to him that I might be 
one of those newspaper interviewers and he suddenly 
seized me by the coat collar, and by a tremenduous 
effort, came very near choking me, and would not 
loosen his grip until I promised never to print what 
he had confidentially imparted to me. As my inten- 
tions were honorable, I acceded to his request, and it 
greatly relieved his mind as well as his hold on my 



20 



neck. By that promise this book loses at least one 
good story; but I will tell it privately to any of 
my readers. He was reported as hiding from the 
New York World^ keeping shady from its correspon- 
dent, and occupied the cottage of a relative with his 
numerous family, a little out of town. Speaking of 
the heat before he left home, he said : " The air was 
so hot and still that the buzz of the ever-welcome 
mosquito was a gentle reminder of a cyclone." 

LORD H. U. MERRIAM 

was a visitor at Alexandria Bay last season, and while 
he remained put up, from choice, at the Marsden 
House, Alexandria Bay. We were very intimate and 
social during his stay, and I inferred he came where 
I take my meals to see if he could get as fat as I am. 

WHAT I KNOW ABOUT ELI PERKINS. 

Some few years ago, Mr. Perkins was a passenger 
on one of the boats. I do not know whether he took 
me for the captain, director or manager of the line or 
not, but he exerted himself considerably to form my 
acquaintance. There was nothing unusual about that, 
however, as there is something "'distingue'" about me, 
and when on the boat I stand considerably "above 
proof." I have frequently dined at the same table 
with the Governor-General, Lord Dufferin and retinue 
— after his lordship had left. But to return to Eli. 
The day in question I was upon the boat, as usual, 
describing the points of interest, especially the one 
on the Canadian shore, where the St. Rigis Indians 
come year after year to gather the famous elm and 
basswood with which to make their celebrated baskets. 



21 



I was delineating at some length upon the noble red 
man, when Eli came to me and said, I will write you 
a verse of poetry about that. Glad to get a momento 
in that shape from so distinguished an individual, who 
had so often been accused of being witty, I said it 
would please me very much. Here is the verse : 

Once here the noble red man took his delights, 

Fit, fished and bled ; 
Now most of the inhabitants are white, 
^ With nary a red. 

1 thanked him very profusely, and on subsequent 
occasions took great delight in repeating the lines to 
the passengers— never forgetting for a moment to 
remind them that they were written for me by the 
alleged American humorist. One day, after deliver- 
ing myself of the poetry and repeating to the passen- 
gers that it was written by the celebrated poet, writer, 
humorist and lecturer, Eli Perkins, I was approached 
by an exceedingly polite and affable gentleman, whom 
I learned was Mr. John H. Rochester, of Rochester, 
N. Y., who asked me if he understood me correctly 
in attributing the authorship of the lines quoted to 
Mr. Perkins. I assured him that he had written them 
expressly for me, and produced in Eli's own hand- 
writing the original copy. With a subdued smile 
resting upon his countenance, Mr. Rochester informed 
me that there must be an error somewhere, as a gen- 
tleman, a Mr. Fletcher, had written a poem in 1834, 
in which the exact verse occurred, and he proceeded 
to repeat the verse from memory. This took me 
slightly back, and I subsequently came to the conclu- 
sion, with " my friend " of the Oil City Derrick, that 
a cabbage leaf was never more at home than when in 
the crown of "Uli Perkins' hat," After that I had 



22 



no more use for the poem, but determined if I ever 
met " Uli " I should call to his mind the cir- 
cumstances connected with '' his little poem." I 
had not long to wait, for one day, while in 
Evansville, Indiana, at the St. George Hotel, I met 
the gentleman, and recalled the circumstance con- 
nected with the little verse, and he, with a perfect 
air of nonchalance^ said that he had never given it 
a thought since — dashed it off in a minute. I told 
him how remarkable it was that great minds often 
run in the same channel, and related my experience 
with his gem. He scowled, and, turning on his heel, 
said it was indeed a singular word-for-word resem- 
blance, but changed the subject at once, and asked me 
to his room on the following morning, which invita- 
tion I cheerfully accepted, doting all the evening upon 
having a nice time, and swapping a few gags, etc., etc. ; 
but my hopes were blighted, for the next morning I 
was informed of his very early departure — gone up 
to lie to the people of Rockport, I was told. "Uli" 
is a great man and contracts a larger amount of 
business upon a very small amount of capital than 
any public character I know of. When Eli reads this 
I expect he will load his big gun — not intellectual, 
but otherwise — and come for me. I will, therefore, 
give him a pointer in advance; there won't anything 
scare me but a stomach pump. 

H. R. CLARK, of New York. 

This little volume would not be complete if it did 
not mention his name, not only in connection with 
the fishing at Alexandria Bay, but the facts of his 



23 

having given more time and money towards stopping 
illegal fishing, having been appointed one of the first 
of the fisheries commission. He was elected an hon- 
orable member of the Canadian Fisheries Commis- 
sion, as well, and was the prime mover in forming the 
Anglers' Association of the Thousand Islands, and 
personally captured more nets than all others inter- 
ested combined. He is the most enthusiastic, as well 
as the best posted gentleman that comes to the Islands 
to fish, and knows more about the habits and nature 
of the finny tribe than any man since the days of Seth 
Green. He won the gold medal given for the largest 
and best catch of fish" for the season of 1885. His 
standing offer to catch ten pounds of fish in a given 
hour, in any day, from the St. Lawrence River, during 
the season, or give ten dollars to any charitable insti- 
tution I may mention, if he fails. Here is one of his 
catches on an eight ounce rod, a single leader, a "G" 
line, a fish weighing seventy-eight pounds, girt 
measure twenty-nine inches, length sixty-three inches, 
time in landing one hour and five minutes. Beat this 
and I will tell you more. 

Hon. A. CORNWALL, of Alexandria Bay. 

Cornwall & Walton were the original purchasers of 
the Thousand Islands, in the American channel of the 
river from the government. Mr. A. Cornwall is the 
survivor of the firm and therefore the father of them, 
and I call him Pa. If you desire any information 
not in this volume, c^ll on him at the old stone stores 
of Cornwall Brothers, and he will give it to you cheer- 
fully. He is an Encyclopedia of facts on the St. 
Lawrence or the Thousand Islands. 



24 

WHAT AND WHO MADE ALEXANDRIA 

BAY. 

In 1872, President Grant visited this delightful spot, 
a guc. t of R. M. Pullman, of palace car fame, Pullman 
Island. There was at that time inadequate hotel 
accommodations, for the tourist as well as the visitor 
who had been drawn to this, the most beautiful 
natural scenery in the world. Messrs. CornAvall and 
Walton of Alexandria Bay, with their usual display 
of sense and sagacity, as well as business tact, for 
which they have always been commended, offered to 
give the best site on the St. Lawrence to any man 
who would erect upon it a first-class summer hotel. 
Mr. O. G. Staples, of Watertown, N. Y., hearing of 
this ofier came, he saw, and how he conquered you 
shall know as we proceed with our narrative. Well, 
he concluded to father the scheme. Securing a man 
with money, a Mr. Nott, of Syracuse, the ground, or 
rock rather, was broken January 14th, 1873, and the 
Thousand Island House was completed and opened 
July 17th, 1873, just six months from the day of 
starting. Rumor says that although their money gave 
out a little above the first story, Staples' indomitable 
will saw it completed and furnished, ready to receive 
guests, just as soon and as well as if he had been a 
millionaire. During the next two years of the part- 
nership of Staples and Nott, everything did not f,D 
as smooth as a marriage bell, but still they went, and 
in the end Staples had the money and hotel. (I hope 
the reader, if he knows Staples, will not be so unkind 
as to accuse him of parting with all his experience 
and make the pun that he took the money and Nott 



25 

the experience.) Staples bought out Nott, and, I 
believe, paid him what was agreed, and he run the 
hotel until April 15th, 1883, when Mr. R. H. Southgate 
(the man of many hotels, too numerous to mention 
here), bought him out. The many changes that have 
been made, and those contemplated, when completed, 
will make this the mecca of summer resort watering 
places, the Venice of America. I desire to say right 
here that I hope Mr. Southgate will not lose sight of 
what has in the past made the Bay popular as a 
resort. I like to see the standard of visitors raised 
as well as the prices. J would like it to be the place 
for fish as well as those who love the piscatorial art. 
No dust, no dampness, no malaria or hay fever, no 
mosquitoes; light, dry air, cool and bracing. Ther- 
mometer never over 80 or below 50 in July or August, 
and one can enjoy what is denied them almost every- 
where else, a good nine hours of cool refreshing 
sleep under a blanket. Those troubled with pulmonary 
complaints will find great relief here. Steamers, steam 
yachts and sailing vessels abound, everything to 
animate the scene and enhance the pleasure of visitors 
is done. Fishing, fishing boats, bathing, etc., as well 
as fish abound, and we say here, if you have never 
been to the Bay, come. Mr. Fred W. Lee will per- 
sonally attend to the wants of guests and if you can 
be pleased" anywhere I feel confident he is the right 
man in the right place. 

THE LARGE GATHERINGS. 

Round Island Park, Thousand Island Park and 
Alexandria Bay have, at different times, been honored 



26 

by conventions, meetings of associations in conven- 
tions, pilgrimages, etc., a minute description of which 
would fill a volume ten times the size of this one, so 
I can only mention what is uppermost in my mind, 
the Press Association of Vermont, under the guid- 
ance of S. W. Cummings, Esq., the general passenger 
agent of the Central Vermont Railroad. He and his 
associates made for them an ever to be remembered 
excursion trip. The Librarians of America stayed 
in the midst of the Thousand Islands three or four 
days. They were, without exaggeration, the most 
refined and educated body of men and women that I 
ever met. The Brooklyn Tabernacle, with its 
thousand pilgrims, were also delighted with every- 
thing they saw at the Thousand Islands, and were 
profuse in their expressions of its scenic beauty. I 
met the Rev. Dr. Talmadge and had a personal inter- 
view. I don't wonder now that his mas^netism holds 
such sway with his Brooklyn audience, and that the 
whole world receives so cheerfully through the tele- 
graph his sermons. 

THEY DO IT EVERY TIME. 

When the average American's postage stamp does 
not stick he storms around and makes the air fairly 
blue until he secures the mucilage bottle and fixes 
the stamp to his letter. Not so with the average 
Canadian. He procures a needle and thread, sits 
quietly down and sews the darned thing on. 

THE HUMORISTS OF AMERICA. 

Most of these jovial, good-natured souls have, at 
some time or other, paid the Thousand Islands and 



27 

the St. Lawrence River a visit, but it would be useless 
for me to try and remember each and every one of 
them, or their peculiarities. I cheerfully remember 
Mark Twain, (Samuel L. Clements, Esq.,) and one of 
the funniest stories I tell was of an evening spent 
at Toronto, while a guest of a friend. And the little 
speech that he made introducing Senator Hawley, 
who was to make a political address at Elmira, N. Y. 
He was a passenger down the river. After naming 
over several towns and streets in the Province of 
Quebec, he remarked : "Are they all saints here ; no 
sinners ''? 

SALISBURY, 

of the Fall River Advance, Roing down the St. Law- 
rence, as a passenger, and his written description 
of the trip, is the most humorous that I have had 
the pleasure of perusing. ''Bob'' Burdette's, of the 
Burlington Hawkeye, description of the Victoria 
Bridge, is very funny. Knox, of the Texas Sif tings ^ 
went down on the opposition line, so did not 
have a chance to meet him. Eli Perkins, you cheer- 
fully remember, and I have given a very definite 
description of an interview, in another part of this 
work. 

REPRESENTATIVE MEN 

of New York, New Orleans, Rochester, Buffalo, 
Pittsburgh, Cleveland and Chicago, respectively, 
who occupy cottages, etc., at the Thousand Islands 
during the summer, should be mentioned here, 
but space alone prevents. This little volume is 



28 

published expressly for Tourists who travel, and if 
it becomes large, burdensome or cumbersome, it is 
useless for what it is designed, as a descriptive 
book of the St. Lawrence River. I therefore, cannot 
lose sight of this fact, and must content myself with 
publishing a book that will contain about i8o or 200 
pages. 

H. H. Warner, of Rochester, N. Y.; George M. 
Pullman, Chicago ; W.J. Lewis, H. A. Laughlin, G. 
T. Raiferty, J. S. Laney, of Pittsburgh ; J. C. Covert, 
Ex-Mayor Rose and Mr. J. M. Curtis, of Cleveland, 
Ohio; Judge Labath, N. O.; C. J. Hudson, of New 
York ; Judge Thomas Troy, of Brooklyn ; Hon. R. 
A. Livingston, N. Y.; M. B. Bettman, of Buffalo ; John 
Lowery, of New York ; L. G. Souen, Mr. J. W. White, 
of White Plains; H. R. Clark and family of Jersey 
City ; Royal E. Deane of New York ; last but not 
least, my solid friend Col. T. G. Carnes, of Gainsville, 
Texas, a man after my own heart, and weight as well. 
He says he enjoys himself more at Alexandria Bay, 
andean keep his three hundred and ten pounds cooler, 
than at any other resort in America, and when you 
are about to select a summer home think of me and 
my three hundred and thirty-three pounds, and after 
passing fifteen years on the St. Lawrence I have not 
seen over two days iu any summer that would cause 
me, through heat, to wilt my shirt collar, which is the 
best test the heat or perspiration can have upon a fat 
man. Think of this, and when you want a cool place 
come to our island home. 



29 

THE PEOPLE WE MEET AT THE 
THOUSAND ISLANDS. 

Visitors going to the Thousand Islands will strike 
the river at either Kingston, Cape Vincent, Gan- 
anoqua or Clayton. The first of the summer resorts 
after leaving Clayton is Round Island, which is 
occupied by the Baptists, but the denominational 
sectarian barriers have been removed the same as 
at each of the other resorts, and all Christians, of 
whatever sect, or no sect, are welcome. Even the 
dude can revel in his peculiarity. The next point 
is Thousand Island Park. This is occupied by the 
Methodists, and they welcome everyone, except on 
Sundays, when no persons are allowed to land on the 
island. 

The Fine View House, Central Park, and Edge- 
wood Park, have no religious proclivities known to 
me, but " Solomon Isaacs" would not be admitted at 
Edgewood Park unless he would swear that he was 
a "Quaker.*' 

Westminster Park was founded by the Presby- 
terians, and is occupied by them and their friends. 
Summerland by the Universalists and their friends. 

Alexandria Bay is cosmopolitan, where everybody 
is welcome and can stay as long as they behave them- 
selves and pay their board. 

Now, dear reader, imagine the Baptists, Methodists, 
Presbyterians, Universalists and all their friends 
combined, and now if you want a summer of pleasure 
without any baneful influences, you wouldn't miss it 
in securing the Thousand Islands for your summer 
home, where there are no bad people whatever, such 



30 

as drunkards, loafers, tramps, people of bad repute, 
male or female, and if they should drift in they would 
receive a cool reception among the people of the 
Thousand Islands. It would not require a Pinkerton 
or any other detective to select from among those 
Christian people or their friends any bad character, 
but they come, nevertheless, though their stay is short. 

WM. H. VANDERBILT AND PARTY 

Made a trip down the St. Lawrence River. Col. 
Wagner of the palace car fame piloted the party. 
Knowing the Colonel very well, and he knowing the 
position I occupied on the boat, was very anxious to 
have me make the trip as pleasant as possible for 
Mr. W. H. V. Taking me over and introducing me 
to Mr. Vanderbilt, who shook me warmly by the hand 
and said he hoped to have a pleasant trip; as Mr. 
Wagner had given me charge for the day he hoped it 
would save him a great deal of annoyance, which it 
did, for we had not left Prescott fifteen minutes 
before a gentleman introduced himself to me as one 
of the professors of the Vanderbilt University, of 
Nashville, Tenn., and stated that Mr. Vanderbilt's 
father had endowed the University, but he never had 
had the pleasure of knowing the Commodore, there- 
fore asked me if I would not be kind enough to 
introduce him to Mr. W. H. V., that he might have a 
few moments for an interview. I told him that I 
would speak to Mr. Vanderbilt and if he had no 
objection I certainly had none. I talked with him on 
the subject, and he said if there was three minutes in 
which there was nothing of interest he would see 
him, but for me to be sure that I had a good whoa on 



3^ 

him so that I could call him off when it became neces- 
sary. As we were favored with having on board 
the City Band of Montreal who occupied a promin- 
ent position on the upper deck, I made arrange- 
ments with the gentleman before introducing him to 
Mr. Vanderbilt that when I raised my right hand that 
he would close the interview, as we would be nearing 
a point of interest. Fearing he might not recognize 
my uplifted hand I made arrangements with the leader 
of the band on the upper deck that it would also be 
a signal for them to play a tune, and I also carried a 
lasso to draw him off that way if the other two 
chances failed. So when I raised my right hand he 
saw it and recognized it, and came towards me, so 
that I did not have to resort to the other methods 
which I had prepared for Mr. Vanderbilt's escape of 
being talked to death. It was a fine trip. Nothing 
occurred to mar the pleasure, and Mr. Vanderbilt 
and party listened to my descriptions very atten- . 
tively. During my lecture I remarked that notwith- 
standing that I had been guide on the rivers eight 
years, that only yesterday I had discovered the most 
popular point on the trip; that all who desired to see 
it might turn their eye to the extreme right 
and they would discover the popular point. They 
were all poplars there, nine in a row. Mr. Vander- 
bilt, who was seated by his wife, arose and requested 
them to be seated, and stated that that was only one 
of the "Phat Boy's" jokes. 

THE WHY NOT! 

I am asked almost every day why the Canadians do 
not occupy the islands in their channel of the river 



32 

the same as the Americans do. The onl)'- answer T 
can qive is. that the American comes here to rough 
it, tisli ami enjoy himself diirino- liis summer vacation 
and the Canadians have it rough enougli the year 
rc>und. so do not have to come. 

BOYS ON A STEAMER. 

Here is a genuine. His parents are with liim ; he 
cannot keep still ; he wants chietlv to break his neck 
or fall overboard, or to get crushed bv the walking- 
beam : he has been twice dragged from the steps 
leading to tiie walking-beam, used bv the assistant 
engineer for lubricating purposes ; lie would like to 
get in the paddle boxes, has talked every othcer on 
board to death, and is now trving his best to worry 
the deck hands. How curiouslv constructed is a real 
bov, to go whither he should n^n, and especially 
where his anxious mother most fears he will go; he 
is now doing his best to spoil his parents' trip. We 
can leave him for a moment: he won't tlag in his 
endeavor to get into trouble or to make his parents 
miserable. 

This is a smaller boy — not yet out of his petticoats, 
but very active: he, too, has with him an anxious 
mother; he has found anotlier boy — a strange bov, of 
the same size and sex : they have become acquainted; 
the strange bov is allowed bv his parents to roam 
about the boat at will: hcinvitesthe nicelittle bov to 
roam also : he wants him to roam as near the walking- 
beam as possible ; he has roamed there before himself 
and escaped : he tells tlie nice little boy how cunning 
it is to come near being crushed : the nice little boy's 
mother forbids anv roaminsr at all : she looks with 



33 

disfavor on the strange boy ; but the strange boy con- 
tinues to hang around ; he knows, so does the nice 
boy, together they can fool any one mother ; united 
they stand, divided they fall ; now the nice boy edges 
away from the side of his mother, for her energies 
are momentarily concentrated on the set of her bonnet 
and the nice-looking gentleman at the other end of 
the saloon who is taking side glances at her through 
the mirrt)r. Now the nice boy gets farther away ; 
they are on the forbidden part of the deck, near the 
walking-beam. It is great fun. Now the cross man 
who. keeps order on the deck drives them away. They 
go to the news agent's stand and help themselves to 
anything on the table when he is not looking. They 
are now running in and out of the state rooms, 
where the passengers have gone to take a little rest, 
getting in everybody's way; it is a wonder they 
haven't been killed twenty times. It is great fun for 
the boys, but almost death to the passengers. And 
the mother is still so occupied with her bonnet and 
the dude who has made a mash or favorable 
impression upon her that she has not missed her nice 
little boy. 

ONE ON THE DRUMMER. 

It would be passing strange if I can not tell at least 
one story on the urbane and gentlemanly commercial 
traveler, whose duty it is to visit the different places 
along the border line between the State of New Yoik 
and Canada, alternately, day after day, so that it would 
seem to be difficult to tell just where you were without 
stopping for some time and take in the surroundings. 
Said a drummer one day : " I don't have to stop and 



34 

ponder; in fact, it don't take up any of my time to 
ascertain my location, should I, by accident or other- 
wise, run up against a party. If it should be in 
Canada they would say: 'Beg pardon, sir, beg par- 
don,' while if it should happen in the states you would 
be looked at very savagely, and the party would say : 
'what's the matter with you ; are you drunk or afraid 
of the cars ? Go throw sand at yourself,' or words 
to that effect." 

SIR JOHN A. Mcdonald, 

who is Canada's prime minister, has been a pas- 
senger upon the boats, two and three times 
during each season, until his face became a very 
familiar one to me, and I must say that it is as jolly 
looking as my own and about as expressive; while 
his is a Roman nose, mine is a pug. I remember his 
first trip down, after his election to the premiership, 
and my saying to him: Now we have a change in 
politics and in government, I shall expect, of course, 
a position under the new government. Sir John A. 
remarked : Yes, you shall have it. I shall make a 
change. We will have the riv^ers run the other way 
so you can be utilized day and night to make it 
pleasant for the people without extra pay or allow- 
ance. When giving my description of Barnhart's 
Island and the Canadian Channel, passing around, 
the settlement of the treaty of 1812, and the ratifica- 
tion of the same by Lord Ash Burton and Daniel 
Webster, he asked me if those were facts and I said 
yes, and I am astonished to think that you would have 
to ask me about such an important point and treaty. 
When nearing Montreal I had finished giving a 
description of places and points of interest, and had 



35 

described Bonseconns market when he told me that 
an Irish friend of his pronounced it different, he 
called it Bone Scowered market. 

WHISTLES. 

Very few people can imagine the different whistles 
maintained on the steamers plying the St. Lawrence 
River, but it is a fact that each steamer has a peculiar 
whistle, and many people can tell the name of the 
steamer by its whistle. Take, for instance, the 
Steamer Armstrong, it has a very peculiar whistle, 
and its first impression causes some to laugh, some 
to cry and others to run for the paregoric bottle. Her 
whistle will make more noise and cause more com- 
ment than any other steamboat on the river. The 
Van Horn's whistle is more pleasant and musical in 
its tone, and after listening to her for a moment relief 
is so apparent that you feel as if you had secured the 
paregoric bottle and was enjoying its soothing 
influences. The new Island Wanderer, said the 
Captain, will have a whistle different from all others. 
You can stay at the Bay and hear her whistle when 
we are at Echo Point. 

"GOING THAT WAY." 

Captain Sinclair, of the Steamer Passport, was in 

a fog early one morning just before leaving Kingston 

and one of the passengers remarked to him that it 

was clear above, to which the captain answered, "Yes, 

but unless we have a blow-up we will not go that 
way." 

A GOOD ONE ON CAPTAIN ESTES. 

Everyone familiar with the St. Lawrence river will 
surely recognize the name of Estes as it is one that 



36 

has been connected with the river for the past forty 
years. Some one of the Utica, N. Y., daily papers men- 
tioned Captain Estes of the Steamer St. Lawrence as 
a man extremely polite and scrupulously neat in his 
dress, and very attentive to those who are passengers 
on his boat ; a man who does not chew, smoke or 
drink, nor tell fish stories. An old gentleman, 
accompanied by his wife and daughter, having heard 
of the captain's reputation, remarked that he would 
like to introduce him to his daughter. The gallant 
captain, who looks very young for his age, answered, 
"No, thanks, I am a married man." 

THE PHARMACEUTICAL ASSOCIATION 

of the State of New York held their annual conven- 
tion at the Thousand Islands last year, and when they 
made their excursion on the Island Wanderer around 
the islands I accompanied them and delineated the 
points of interest on the trip. Just before arriving at 
Central Park they noticed the large twelve-foot 
letters " C. P.," which are used for illuminating 
post at night, there being hung upon the letters one 
hundred lanterns. Some one asked what the "C. P." 
stood for. I answered Central Park, when one of 
the members, the president's wife, I think, answered 
"' C. P.' means chemically pure. I never knew it to 
mean anything else but that." This biographical 
incident is intended for druggists only. 

Our President, GROVER CLEVELAND, 

with his wife and a party ot friends, paid the Thousand 
Islands and River St. Lawrence a visit last year. 
They came by Rome, Watertow^n & Ogdensburgh 



37 

Rail Road to Cape Vincent, chartered the palace 
steamer St. Lawrence and proceeded down the main 
channel of the river, passing all the points of interest 
in the Thousand Islands without stopping. Running 
close to the docks at Alexandria Bay they proceeded 
to cross the river over into the Canadian channel of 
the river, where they remained for a couple of hours, 
then returned to Cape Vincent. This little volume 
was compiled to mention "The People I have met." 
As I did not meet our President on that occasion, he 
will be obliged to come under the head of " The 
Things I have seen." I expect, if he is re-elected, to 
get a post office for that. 

APING CUSTOMS, MANNERS, ETC., OF 
THE ENGLISH. 

This is done to a great extent, not only in Canada, 
but I am sorry to say in Free America, better known 
as the U. S. I cannot find any fault with the. average 
Canadian, who is, as it were, governed by Queen 
Victoria, and must have some reverence for royalty, 
in the aping of their manners and customs, but in 
this land, where we have an abundance of Queens, 
Princes, Lords and Sovereigns who are not flattered 
by titles, but bear their honors meekly, all are royal 
born and bred. Speaking of titles reminds me that 
at home I am plain Edward F. Babbage, or " Phat 
Boy " (I spell it with *' Ph " because it does not sound 
so greasy), but the moment I leave home, say for a 
trip through the South, I am called Captain for the 
first few hundred miles, then a little way on it 
becomes Colonel, and when I get to Georgia it is 
Major ; in South Carolina it is Judge or General, 



38 

until I get to Florida, and I have heard them say 
there, " Great God, is that you ? " But we diverge. 
Returning to the aping of the manners of Princess 
Louise, I wish to say right here that 1 firmly believe 
that it did the Canadian people a great amount of good, 
but fail to see where the people of the United States 
could be benefited. I was told that at Kingston the 
Princess asked for her strawberries in a box with the 
hulls on, and when placed before her she took them 
up by the stem between the thumb and finger and bit 
the berry off and placed the hull on the plate. Now 
everybody does the same ; previous to her visit they 
used to hull and wash them before placing them on 
the table. The same with grapes. They used to 
wash them in a goblet of water at the table before 
eating them ; now they take the grape between the 
thumb and finger, press it to the lips and squeeze 
gently, and juice as well as insides are soon on the 
way to digestion, and the skin laid away on the plate 
as the Princess did. Asparagus — it was almost pain- 
ful for me to see Canadians eat it in as many wb.ys as 
there were people at the table, in fact, no two ate it 
alike until after the Princess came ; now everybody 
takes it by the hard green end, between thumb and 
finger, and putting it into the mouth, close the teeth 
down upon it and draw it gently from the mouth, 
leaving all that is digestible within, and the remainder 
is laid on the plate. The Princess once took a walk 
through her kitchen at Rideau Hall, Ottawa, took 
the vegetable cook to task for washing fresh picked 
peas from the vine that had just been shelled, saying 
it was nonsense, if your hands are clean, to wash a 
virgin pea. 



39 

''WE ARE SEVEN." 

And they were in fact, as well as every other way, 
seven of the finest gentlemen I ever met. They passed 
down the St. Lawrence River its full length from 
Kingston to the Gulf, bent on sight-seeing and pleas- 
ure, and when you read over the names you will 
know that each received his full share : John H. 
Rochester, Charles E. Fitch, George H. Humphrey, 
D. M. Dewey, William F. Peck, Charles P. Boswell, 
Alexander Thompson. 

WE CALL THEM TRAMPS. 

During the Centennial year many foreigners were 
always found among the list of passengers from every 
country. The proverbial English tourist cannot be 
mistaken by any, but this year, 1876, we had many 
who were too green or unsophistical to be in that 
class. Now this truthful occurrence which I am 
about to relate is original and occurred upon one of 
the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's line 
of boats. The Englishman was relating to his newly 
found friend his opinion of the United States, etc., in 
his own peculiar style. Hi don't like this blarsted 
country, you know ! Why, said his friend, what fault 
can you find with America ? Oh, Hi've been all over 
it, you know, and can't find any sawciety there. 
Society, said his friend, what do you mean by society? 
Oh, dear me, you have no gentlemen or gentlemen's 
sons in h'America. Why, what do you mean by gen- 
tlemen and gentlemen's sons? Oh! Hi mean gen- 
tlemen who never did any work, you know, nor their 
sons, either. You make a mistake there, my worthy 



40 

friend, we have millions of them here, but we call 
them tramps, and I have often thought it the best 
definition to a tramp I ever heard, for if there are 
gentlemen and their sons here who never did any 
work they will soon make good timber for tramps, if 
they are not already. 

''NOT A GEORGE WASH." 

He had told several very improbable stories bor- 
dering upon the Eli Perkins order, and then remarked 
to a friend that he could not tell a lie. But the friend 
replied that he could the moment he heard it, and to 
the best of his judgment he had told several. 

ROUTE OF THE STEAMER "ISLAND 
WANDERER." 

The dock from which the "Island Wanderer" leaves 
for her daily excursions around the Islands, morning 
at 8, afternoons at 2:15, is in front of Cornwall 
Brothers' Stone Store, where tickets and all informa- 
tation may be had relative to any route by either rail 
or boat, to any part of the globe. Taking your posi- 
tion upon any part of the boat that will allow you to 
face the bow, upon your right will be Hart's Island, 
Westminster Park Dock and Freight House, which 
Is located at the lower end of Wells' Island — this 
island is ten miles long by four wide. A little above, 
hid by a cluster of trees, is the residence of John 
Winslow, next is Imperial Isle, owned by Mr. 
Singer, of New York. The next is Linlithgow, 
owned by the Hon. R. A. Livingston, of New York. 
The next cottage on bluff is owned by Miss Lucy 



41 

J. Bullock — the cottage a little above is owned by- 
Prof. A. G. Hopkins. Next is Florence Island. Near 
the water edge is the boat house of St. Elmo and the 
conspicuous slate-colored cottage above and wind- 
mill below, is owned by Mr. N. W. Hunt, of Brooklyn, 
N. Y. It is presumed you have taken in the above 
panorama before starting. Immediately after starting, 
on the left, you pass the Thousand Island House and 
Little Staples Island — around the point is Otter 
Creek, Edgewood Park and Martin's Cottage. The 
Edgewood Park Company have erected an elegant 
hotel and several cottages are being built by the 
members of the company, who form a sort of social 
club for their families and friends, care being exer- 
cised in the selection of members as well as visitors, 
and if the project is carried out, as it is contemplated, 
this Edgewood Park will be the summer home of 
some of the best people in America. On the right is 
Friendly Island, containing cottage, boat house and 
lookout, owned by E. W. Dewey, of New York. 
Next above is Nobby Island, owned by H. R. Heath, 
of New York. Opposite, on the left, is Cherry 
Island (the reason they call it "Cherry" is because 
they raise their own strawberries from which they 
make their celebrated custard pies). The Island con- 
tains Ingleside Cottage and Melrose Lodge, owned 
by Mr. A. B. Pullman and C. B. Marsh, of Chicago, 
111., also I. T. Easton's Villa, called Stuyvesant Cot- 
tage, and Rev. George Rockwell's Cottage. Opposite, 
on the right, is the famous Pullman Island, where 
Gen. U. S. Grant visited in 1872, owned by George M. 
Pullman. Thousands of dollars have been expended 
here during the past year. Next, West and Safe Point, 



42 

which are on Wells' Island. On the lett is the famous 
Devil's Rock and Oven of historic fame. It is said 
that here is where Bill Johnson hid himself, as there 
is an opening in the rock large enough for the usual 
fishing boat to enter with its contents and be com- 
pletely hid from view. This is what is called the 
Oven, as it resembles the old form of Dutch ovens. 
Beyond, on the left near the main shore, is Cuba, 
owned by W. F. Story of Buffalo, N. Y. Opposite, 
on the right, is Crag's Side, owned by H. A. Laughlin, 
of Pittsburgh. Next, on the left, is Hill's Island and 
boat house, owned by C. E. Hill, of Chicago, 111. Next, 
on the left, is Warner's Island. On the right is 
Palisade Point, owned by A. J. Beckwith. Next, on 
the left, is Comfort Island, owned by Mr. A. E. Clark, 
of the Chicago Stock Exchange. Mr. Clark has 
lavishly expended a large amount of money for 
" Comfort. " It is joined to Neh-Mahben, meaning twin 
lakes or islands, owned by J. H.Oliphant, of New York. 
On the right is Louisiana Point, owned by Judge La 
Batte, of New Orleans, La. I desire to apologize 
for stating in my last edition that Judge La Batte 
was dead. He came to death's door and was so low 
that his physician had called his family to his bedside 
to witness his last moments, when he motioned to his 
son to come near, and drawing his ear down close to 
his lips, he whispered, " Take me to my summer 
home on the St. Lawrence." They started from New 
Orleans, La., the next day and he arrived at Louisiana 
Point in July, and the day of this writing, August 
2oth, he had gained sixteen pounds in flesh and 
was feeling quite strong and happy — a gentleman, 
living like the " Thane of Cawdor." Opposite, on 



43 

the left, is Keppler Point, Buena Vista Lodge, 
owned by a gentleman from Cleveland, O., who 
purchased it last season. On the right is Seven 
Isles, owned by Gen. Bradley Winslow. Mclntyre's 
cottage, " Photo," is in Dinsmore Bay, next to 
Seven Isles. On the left is an Indian Camp and 
Allegheny Point, owned by J. S. Laney, of Pitts- 
burgh, Pa. A little above is Gypsy Point, owned by 
J. M. Curtis, of Cleveland, O. Rose Island is con- 
nected with Gypsy Point by a beautiful rustic bridge. 
Rose Island and cottage is owned by W. G. Rose, 
Ex-Mayor of Cleveland, O. Opposite, on the right, 
is Shady Covert, a beautiful villa owned by J. C. 
Covert, Editor of the Cleveland Leader. On the right 
is Point Vivian, a delightful spot occupied by a stock 
company, mostly from Evans' Mills, N. Y. Opposite, 
on the right, is Island Royal, owned by Royal E. 
Deane, of New York. Behind Royal is Holton's 
Cottage, also owned by Royal E. Deane. Above on 
the right is Hill Crest, owned by General Shields, of 
Philadelphia, Pa. 

Nothing of interest right or left for the space of a 
mile except Lindner's Island, until we come to Cen- 
tral Park (Woodbine and Crest Cottages are located 
here), where we make our first stop for passengers. 
The next island is owned by J. F. Moffit, of Water- 
town, N. Y. — Brown's Bay on the right and Swan's 
Bay on the left. A little above the left is Little Cal- 
umet, owned by J. D. Green, of Boston, Mass. Above, 
on the main shore, is the cottage of J. B. Collins. 
Opposite, on the right, may be seen the celebrated 
Limburger Cheese Factory. Opposite, on the main 
shore, left, is the farm and house of Capt. Jack ; the 



44 

mill and dock somewhat dilapidated. Opposite is 
Island Blanch and cottage, E. D. Buckingham, 
owner. A little opposite is Paul's Dock and Sunny- 
Side, with three other villas ; also a dairy farm 
which, from its fine looking barns, sheds and house, 
must be considered very prosperous. Peel's Dock 
having been rebuilt, was memorable as the spot 
where the vessel "Sir Robert Peel" was burned in 
retaliation for the "Caroline" being sent over Niagara 
Falls. Next, on the right, "Jolly Oaks," Twin Cottage 
Home, Pleasant View and San Souci's, four cottages 
and dock. The pretty little summer house on the Island 
passed, we arrive at Fern Cliff cottages and dock. A 
large stone cottage was erected here last season, 
called Hiawatha Cottage. This is for sale. Beautiful 
villas, camps and cottages line the banks on the right, 
among which is Fair View^ owned by Mr. Butterfield, 
of Redwood, N. Y., until we arrive at Fine View. 
Opposite, on the left, is Fisher's Landing and Knight's 
Hotel, Robinson Island, Johnson's Light and Cottage, 
Hemlock, Cedar and other Islands around the point, 
and we come in sight of Thousand Island Park — 
located at the upper end of Wells' Island, owned and 
controlled by the Methodists; the neatest, most orderly 
and attractive resort among the Islands. Something 
should be said here regarding this, the most celebrated 
spot among the Thousand Islands. As it is impossible, 
from my limited knowledge, to do the subject justice, 
and, as I cannot steal, clip, borrow or plagiarize from 
any other work, I can only say, stay over one day, 
or until the boat comes back, and look over this 
delightful spot. 



45 

Again, on our way we pass around the head of 
Wells' Island, and have a view on the right of the 
finest avenue in the Park, a long line of boat-houses, 
and a number of steam yachts, sail and fishing boats, 
wind-mills, etc., etc. Beyond, on the right, is Hem- 
lock Island and Hotel, owned by Mr. Garrison, of 
Syracuse. On the left is Grennell's Island and house, 
where the boat stops for passengers ; beyond, on the 
right, is Otsego Point and cottages. We next pass 
two cottages, after which Pickton Isle. Beyond is 
Eel Bay ; on the left, beneath the brow of the hill, is 
where the American Canoe Club holds in annual con- 
vention. On Grindstone Island, whicli is in Jefferson 
County, N. Y., there are 500 inhabitants on the island, 
all Republicans. They, however, all voted the Demo- 
cratic ticket presidential year, which elected Cleve- 
land. After leaving Grindstone Island we cross the 
boundary line between the United States and Canada, 
after which we arrive at many very pretty Islands, on 
the right as well as on the left. 

''YES! A GREAS-Y STATUE." 

" How much do you weigh ?" Well, I am asked that 
question many times every day, and as I am not sen- 
sitive will say my weight is three hundred and thirty- 
three pounds, just one pound for every mile between 
Toronto and Montreal via Grand Trunk Railway (in 
the shade). The reason why I say the shade is because 
there has never been raised a mathematician with the 
ability to compute the weight of a grease spot, and 
were I compelled to remain in the sun very long 
would make one, and do not care to mislead people 
into an error. The fat of this land is about as 



46 

unequally distributed as the wealth. Those who ain't 
got it want it ; those who have it, have too much. I 
am therefore a Vanderbilt in grease, have a corner in 
lard, as it were. 

"DO YOU GO OUT FISHING?" 

Well, not often. You see, this ponderous body of 
mine does not fit the average fishing boat. My fears 
are not all bound up in that one fact, nor in the satis- 
faction that if the boat should upset that I would not 
sink, but the fear that is indelibly photographed upon 
my mind, that, as I would float, and being so large, 
some steamboat captain or pilot would take me for 
an island, lay alongside and let the passengers off for 
a little picnic or an hour's pleasure. Think of it. 

YACHTING. 

Water — and as one enthusiastic writer puts it — such 
water! — is abundant, and to enjoy this water in a 
pensive or poetic mood, the steam yacht should be 
brought into requisition. Private yachts are numer- 
ous and elegant, and it is to the credit of the owners 
that they are not niggardly in exhibiting a spirit of 
generosity and courtesy. They are constantly inviting 
individuals and parties to enjoy the exhilarating 
excitement of the shooting around the beautiful 
spots. And if you, dear tourist, have no friend that 
invites you to share a cushioned seat in his graceful 
fairy like craft, then go to Capt. E. W. Visger, on the 
Island Wanderer^ who will take you on an excursion 
among the Islands that you will gladly recall as a 
cheerful reminiscence of your St. Lawrence excursion, 
for the opportunity will have been offered to bring 



47 

within the range of your vision enchanting scenes 
that pen is not adequate to describe, but by purchasing 
one of the 'That Boy's" Pictures of the St. Lawrence, 
you will be the possessor of the only correct map 
of the St. Lawrence. A perfect guide to the river. 

''WOULD YOU BELIEVE IT?" 

A gentleman from London came on board the boat 
at Kingston one morning, rushed up to me and said, 
Mr.Babbage, how do you do! Why you cannot imagine 
how glad I am to see you ! Why, do you know that 
before I left " Home" a lady invited me to take tea at 
her house, and when I told her 1 was coming to 
America she never stopped talking about you for over 
two hours ; it is a great relief to meet you, I assure 
you. Meeting upon the street one afternoon, a very 
fine looking old gentleman, he said, hold on a moment, 
I have something to tell you. I have just received a 
letter from my daughter who lives in Australia, she 
said she found one of your books upon the table at 
her friend's house where she was visiting, so she 
enquired how it came there. Why, bless your soul, 
we took a trip with him down the St. Lawrence River 
and he made it pleasant for us for eight hours and I 
would not part with book for an interest in the profits 
of the "new version" or revised edition. 

A lady wrote me from Trenton, N. J.: " While at 
Alexandria Bay, in 1883, I bought a copy of the ' Phat 
Boy's' Delineations of the St Lawrence River (I 
think of the Author from the picture on the cover) . 
.Have read it over and over to my friends until it is 
completely worn out, can you forward me another 
copy ?" I did as requested and at the same time 



48 

enquired what pleased her friends most, and she said 
in reply, that it was all good, but the articles upon 
myself were the most pleasins: to her. I must, there- 
fore, send her a copy of this, my hist effort. 

H. H. WARNER AND GEO. M. PULLMAN. 

Two of nature's noble men. Two of the greatest 
benefactors of the human race. Two of the greatest 
men born in New York State. One the inventor of 
the celebrated Pullman Car that has given ease, rest 
and comfort to the whole enlightened world. The 
other the Warner's Safe Cure, which has given relief 
to millions of sufferers from Kidney and Liver disease. 

Each in turn are spending a small portion of his 
immense wealth in building suitable cottages upon 
their respective Islands, "Warner's" and "Pullman's," 
which they expect to occupy during the coming 
season. When such men as they are, do what they 
intend, it will prove to the world that The Thovisand 
Islands, as a watering place, has no equal and by 
next season we may look for a "boom" beyond our 
greatest expectation. 

THE LOTUS SEEKER. 

This tidy little craft made its first appearance on 
the St. Lawrence at the beginning of last season, is 
owned by Mr. Ilolden, of Buffalo, N. Y., who has a 
very beautiful cottage at Thousand Island Park. 
Many times during the season she could be seen plying 
in and out among the Islands, comfortably filled with 
invited guests of her owner and passing every thing 
moved by steam power. I felt quite badly one day 



49 

while taking a ride upon one of tlie "cracked" 
yachts, to be passed so quickly by the " Lotus Seeker " 
that I did not have time to say s^ood-bye to my frend, 
J. W. l^urdick, Gen. Passenger Agent of tiie D. & H. 
R. R. Co., wiu) was one of her passengers. 

MR. SAM SONDHEIM. 

How well I remember his first visit to the Thousand 
Isles, accompanied by several friends, all of vvliom 
are expert fishermen, Messrs. Elirich Bros., of 8th 
Ave., 24th and 25th Sts. , Messrs, Max and Harry 
Stadler, of Broadway, N. Y. Well, Sam was the 
most Amateur of all amateur fishers, but he soon 
became infatuated, and as good luck followed each 
and every. effort, " Sam " became almost desperate. I 
never saw one so much '''•enthused.'' Why, he tele- 
graphed home three times and had his vacation 
extended. At last he was so lucky he beat all the 
experts, broke all the records and cheerfully left for 
home, sighing, however, to think he had no more 
conquests to make. Years have passed since then, 
and now he is numbered among the expert fishers of 
the Islands. 

WALTER H. GRIFFIN, 
who for many years was room clerk at the Thousand 
Island House (now connected with Hotel Kaaterskill), 
was the winner of the prize for the largest pickerel 
catch of 1884. It was caught within one hundred 
yards of the Hotel and weighed eighteen and three- 
quarter pounds. 

MR. J. C. MATTHEWS, 

who was the manager of tlie Thousand Island House 
in 1884, is enquired after by visitors more than any 



5° 

other person. I hope to be saved some trouble, as 
well as time, by stating here that he is the proprietor 
of the Sturtevant House, N. Y., President of the Hotel 
Keepers' Association and is paying Europe a visit the 
present season. 

LORD DUFFERIN, 

one of Canada's former Governor-Generals, and in 
my opinion, the best they ever had, was a passenger 
down the St. Lawrence many times while I was guide 
to the River. How well I remember some one asking 
him why he left Toronto and his comfortable quarters 
at the Queen's Hotel to come to Montreal. He 
answered by stating, that over across the lake, in the 
United States, they had just had an election, and as 
it was impossible to tell who was really chosen by 
the people, he was afraid they, the people, would rise 
in their might, send a deputation over to Toronto, 
kidnap him and place him in the presidential chair. 
Then what would become of Poor Little Canada.'* 

GEORGE WARREN SHEPHERD, 

formerly a Utica dry goods merchant, and now assso- 
ciated with his brother in Winter street, Boston, 
Mass., made the Thousand Islands his home many 
summers. I well remember one evening at Clayton, 
having just met and talked over old times, (we were 
in the minstrel business at one time, say twenty-three 
years ago), when an old countryman from way back 
came up and interrupted our conversation by asking 
what made those smooth tracks on the water. I was 
about to remark that it was the wake of some vessel 
or steamer, when George, to guy the farmer, said : 



51 

'' They were the tracks made by sleighs during the 
winter and were not taken up when the ice went out." 

ALL NATIONALITIES BENEFITED. 

It improves even the Italian to visit Alexandria 
Bay. We had one there last season who washed his 
tace three times a day and ate his meals at the table 
like a Christian. 

"A LITTLE ONE ON PERKINS." 

Two gentlemen at the Thousand Island House one 
day were talking, ivhen the subject of truth was 
approached, and one of them who stammered, said, 
"There are t-t-three great li-liars i-i-in America." 
The friend said. " Who are they? " " 0-o-one of t-t-them 
i-i-is T-T-Tom Oc-Oc- Ochiltree of Te-Te-Texas, and 
th-th-the other two is E-E-EIi Perkins." 

VISITORS AT THE THOUSAND ISLANDS 

who desire to see Montreal and return by boat (their 
time being limited), the following information will be 
of interest. All passengers arrive in Montreal 
between six and seven o'cIock p. m., as there is little to 
see at night and very little time to see it in. The boat 
leaves her dock, Canal Basin, to return, every morn- 
ing at 9 o'clock except Sunday. You can remain in 
Montreal until the 12 m. train for Lachine from the G. 
T. R. Station, (by taking that train, fare 35 cents, you 
will arrive at Lachine in time to take the boat and 
enjoy your dinner while passing through Lake St. 
Louis). Should you desire to prolong your stay, 
remain in Montreal until the 5 p. m. train leaves same 



52 

depot for Coteau Landing. A carriage in waiting will 
take you to the boat, fare from Montreal, including 
carriage, $1.25. You will take passage from there at 
seven o'clock, and have your supper on board of boat 
while passing through Lake St. Francis. As it takes 
the boat sixteen hours longer to come back than to go 
down (reason they are compelled to pass through the 
Lachine, Bohomoise and Cornwall canals, which con- 
sumes the time) All passengers arrive at Alexandria 
Bay, every day, between one and two o'clock p. m., 
except on Monday. 

WHAT I KNOW ABOUT CATCHING FISH. 

During last summer I was at Alexandria Bay, N.Y., 
and took note of some of the best catches of fish, but I 
have not the space to record them. Let me say that 
anybody can catch fish of the following, varieties any- 
where in the St. Lawrence River : Rock bass, black 
bass, perch, pike, pickerel and muscalonge. I have 
caught, off the dock at the Bay, in less than two hours? 
a black bass weighing three and one-half pounds and 
a pickerel weighing over six pounds. The largest fish 
caught last season was a muscalonge, weight 38 lbs., 
caught at an Island opposite Rockport. A pike 7}^ 
pounds, black bass 5^ pounds, a pickerel 13 pounds. 
Several fishing parties out for one to three days brought 
in such enormous catches that if I mentioned them they 
would be called fish stories. 

Respectfully yours, E. F. BABBAGE. 

"I OWE YOU AN APOLOGY," 

Dear reader, because since the first edition of this work 
it has claimed that there no mosquitoes at Alexandria 



53 

Bay, but on at least three occasions when the wind 
was in a certain direction we were visited last year by 
at least a dozen or so. After a thorough search of 
three weeks, unable to find the cause, we were about 
to give it up when, to our astonishment, we discovered 
it. Upon looking up the hotel register we found that 
the hotel opened that year with twenty-seven guests, 
all from New Jersey. Comments are unnecessary. 
We found relief in attending Sunday School, and after 
the usual exercises were gone through with a collec- 
tion was to be taken for the poor. The teacher, desir- 
ing to show the aptness of the pupils, asked each one 
as he put his mite into the box to recite an appropri- 
ate verse from the Bible. The first lad said, '' The 
Lord loveih a cheerful giver," placed his mite in and 
took his seat. The second one said, " He that giveth 
to the poor lendeth unto the Lord," and proudly took 
his seat. The third boy, more worldly than the rest, 
remarked, "that a fool and his money soon parted." — 
He will sit down, if he can, at home. 

A REAL LIVE DUDE 

was at the Bay last season, and I must give him credit 
for one thing, if I could not for having either money 
or brains, but will say he was very attentive to the 
ladies, and it may be said to his credit, he never tried 
to cut me out. One fine morning he induced three of 
the nicest young ladies at the Bay to take a boat ride, 
and for the privilege of their company agreed to do 
the rowing himself. They had been out upon the 
water for some time, and he had done the rowing 
heroically, but, getting into the strong current, his 
physical development was being tested to its utmost, 



54 

when ho asked the young ladies "if it would not be 
heller tor him to hug the shore." After a pause of a 
minute, the girliest girl of the group exclaimed : 
" Well, if VvMi oan'l lind anvtliitig belter lo hug. do lor 
heaven's sake * hug ihe shore I ' " 

LOST HIS NAME. 
Hut he is the mosi venerable looking man I ever saw, 
and when I say hesiruek terror to the mind of the" Hall 
Hovs" and waiters at the Thousand Island House. More 
than one of them told me that he must be one of the 
patriari'hs of old. either Moses. Elias or Aaron, eome 
baok to earth looking Just as he left it. Said another, 
1 was bound to ask him his age so as to see if it was or 
not one of those old fellows. I met him on the Ouebec 
boat, had a very pleasant chat with him, his name 1 
have forgotten, but he is Editor of the Madison, Wis., 
/ournaL been a nieniber of Congress, and was travel- 
ing tor pleasure. 

E. B. WARREN, OF PHILADELPHIA, PA., 
with his wife and daughters, have in the past paid the 
St. Lawrence River manv visits, and been mentioned 
by me for their tish catches. Chie day in particular thev 
brought in and exhibited at the Th -'usand Island 
House, i8 small moutlied black bass weighing seven- 
tv-four pounds. Since the completion of " The Saga- 
more' on Green Island, and the building of an elegant 
cottage there, he stays at home, and I am contented 
with the old proverb, " Tho' lost to sight to memorv 
dear." 

E. G. GILMORE, 
New York's gn^atest Theatrical Manager, has enjoyed 
manv seasons of pleasure at Alexandria Bav. The 



55 

Inst liinc" I saw liiiu, he wauled to Uiiow how it 
woiiM do lor liiiu to hriiio liis whole corpse de hallel 
to the Idioiisand Islands lor a season's recnipcnition, 
tlon't yi)u tliink it would i(ive them vii^or, sik h o-ood 
bracinq- air as von have up there ? 

MESSRS. RAYMOND AND WHITCOMB, 

Atncriea's i;realt\sl i^'xcnrsion Al;(mi1s liave i)rol)al)lv 
brought more jx-ople to the St. Lawrence RIvcm, than 
hjivc come indirectly from the reading ol the several 
editions of my book that have been issued during the 
past seven years, vvhic:li is saying a great deal lor IJiem. 
I hope to have the plcsure of meeting more of their 
select pait ies during 1 111" coming season. The Ihiioil 
iVt'ft'.v exinirsion should not be forgotten, thev have been 
angel visits, however, lor the past two years. 

MR. AND MRS. CHAS. MAC EVOY, 

ol New^ York, have been visitors at the Thousand 
Islands many times. One season, witii a New N'ork 
friend, they caught the largest (^atch of black bass 1 
ever saw brought in by amateurs; the same day. Dr. 
Sperry of tiie United Slates Hotel, Saratoga Springs, 
caught the largest muscalonge of the season. As the 
fishing is much better every year, on account of all 
illegal fishing with nets having been stopped, I hope 
to see them again at the Hay, as well as all other 
lovers of fishing. 



56 

THE NAMES OF THE INHABITED ISLANDS, 
POINTS AND COTTAGES 

In the American Channel of the river, alphabetically 

arranged : 

A 

Allegheny Point J. S. Laney. 

Arcadia and Ina S. A. Briggs. 

Alice Col. A. J. Casse. ' 

B 

Bergshire Hon. S. G. Pope. 

Bay Side H. B. Mosher. 

Bonny Eyrie Mrs. Peck. 

Bay View C. S. Lyman. 

Belle Island Rev. Walter Ayrault. 

Bella Vista Lodge Mrs. F. J. Bosworth. 

Bonnie Castle (Main Land) Mrs. J. G . Holland. 

Birch Island . . W. J. Lewis. 

c 

Covart J. C. Covart. 

Cloud Rest A. H. Greenwalt. 

Chillon A. H. Greenwalt. 

Calumet Chas. G. Emery. 

Cedar Island J.M.Curtis. 

Comfort Island A.E.Clark, 

Craig Side (Wells Island) .H. A. Laughlin. 

Crescent Cottages (Main Land) Bleecker Van Wagenen. 

D 

Devil's Oven H. R. Heath. 

Deshler Island W. G. Deshler. 

Deer Island Hon. S. Miller. 

Douglass Island Douglass Miller. 

Dinglespeil Joseph BabcQck. 

E 

Elephant Rock T . C. Chittenden. 

Easton, Stuyvesant, Cherry Island James E. Easton. 

Edgewood Park Edgewood Park Association. 

Edgewood Cottage G.C.Martin. 

Ella Island R. E. Hungerford. 

Excelsior Group C. S. Goodwin. 

F 

Frederick Island . . . C. L. Fredericks. 

Fisher's Landing Mrs.R.Gurnee & Miss Newton. 

Friendly E. W. Dewey. 

Florence Island H. S. Chandler. 

Felseneck Prof. A . G. Hopkins . 

Fern N. & J. Wilson. 

Fairy Land C. P., C. H. & W. B. Hayden. 

c 

■ Governor's Island Hon. T. G. Alvord. 

Gun Island... .' H.H.Warner. 

Goose Island Mrs. Lottie Simonds. 

Gypsy Island J.M.Curtis, 



57 
H 

Helen's Island Mrs, O. G. Staples . 

Hemlock Hon . W. F. Porter and Wilson. 

Hub Island George W. Best. 

Holloway's Point. Nathan HoIIovvay. 

Harmony Mrs . C. Berger. 

Hub Clark Island Will Clark. 

Hart's Island Hon. E. K. Hart. 

Huguenot L. Hasbrouck. 

I 

Isle Helena Mrs. Helen S. Taylor. 

Isle of Pines Mrs. E. N. Robinson. 

Island Royal Royal E. Deane. 

Island Gracie Miss G. Fox. 

Ingleside (Clierry Island) G. B. Marsh. 

Imperial Island Mr. R. L. Singer. 

Island Mary : '. W. M. Palmer. 

IdlewiJd Mrs. R. A. Packer. 

J 

Jefferson Island E. P. Gardiner. 

Jolly Oaks (Wells Island) Prof. A. H. Brown and others. 

K 

Killien's Point Mr. J. Killien. 

Kit Grafton Mrs. S. L. George. 

L 

Little Calumet. Rev. H. R. Waite. 

Lone Pine Comstock & Co. 

Little Charm Island Mrs. F. W . Baker. 

Look Out Island Thos. H. Borden. 

Little Lehigh C. H. Cummings. 

Little Fraud R. Pease. 

Long Branch Mrs. C. E. Clark. 

Little Delight L.W.Morrison. 

Long Rock W.F.Wilson. 

Little Whortleberry Mrs. L. E. B. Brown. 

Lattimer Dr. C. E. Lattimer. 

Lindner's John Lindner. 

Louisiana Point Judge La Bait. 

Little Gem Mrs. V. Walton. 

Little Angel W. A. Angell. 

Linlithgow Hon. R. A. Livingston. 

Lily's Island . L, B. H. Morrison. 

M 

Maple Island Joseph Atwell. 

Miaium Rev W.W.Walsh. 

Melrose Lodge (Cherry Island). A.B.Pullman. 

Manhattan J.L. Hasbrouck, J. C. Spencer. 

Maple Island J.L. Hasbrouck. 

N 

Nemah-bin J. H. Oliphant. 

Nobby Island - H. R. Heath. 

Nett's Island , W. B. Hayden." 

o 

One Tree Island William Wright. 

Occident and Orient E. W. Washburn. 

Ours Island Mrs. M. Carter. 



58 



P 

Peel Island •. Mrs. S. P. Lake and others. 

Point Vivian R. T. Evans and others. 

Phoco Island A. C. Mc Intyre. 

Pullman Island George M. Pullman, 

Point Lookout (Wells Island) Miss L. J. BuUock. 

Picnic Island Westminster Park Association. 

Point Marguerite (Main Land) E. Anthony. 

Pike Island Frank F. Dickinson. 

Palisade Point A.J. Beckwith. 



Quartett Island Mrs. W. Eagan. 

R 

Rob Roy Island A. H. Greenvvralt. 

River Side Island James C. Lee. 

Resort Island W.J.Lewis, 

Round Island Baptist Association. 

s 

Schooner Island J.N. Whitehouse. 

Sunbeam Group Odd Fellows of Watertown. 

Spuyten Duyvel Alice P. Sargent. 

Summer-Land Summer-Land Association. 

Sunny-Side Island W, Stevenson. 

Seven. Isles Hon. Bradley Winslow. 

Sunny-Side (Cherry Island) .... Rev. George Rockwell. 

Safe Point (Wells Island) H.H.Warner. 

St. Elmo N. H. Hunt. 

Sun-Dew Island Chas. M, Slamm. 

St. John's Judge Dono.hue, 

Sport Island H. C. Wilber. 

T 

Two Islands, Eel Bay Dr. E. L. Sargent. 

Twin Islands I.L.Huntington. 

Throop Dock Dr. C. E. Lattimer and others. 

The Ledges Mrs. J. L. Hudson. 

Thousand Island Park Methodist Association. 

u 

Una Island Mrs. M. E. Steele. 

V 

Vanderbilt Island .. ..J.B.Hamilton. 

Vilula Island H. Sisson. 

w 

Walton Island J. N. & G. H. Robinson. 

West View Island Hon S. G. Pope. 

Welcome Island Hon S.G.Pope. 

Whortleberry Island Mrs. Etta Stillwell, 

Watch Island Mrs. Elizabeth Skinner. 

Waving Branches D. C. Graham and others. 

Wild Rose Hon. W. G. Rose. 

Warner Island H. H. Warner. 

Wau Winet C. E. Hill. 

West Point John Mathews. 



59 

FROM KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. 

The Mail Line, or Richelieu Co.'s boats, leave Kings- 
ton every morning at five o'clock. As we proceed 
down the river, a description of the city will be in 
order. 

Kingston has a population of 1,500; was founded 
in 1672, by Governor De Courcelles, receiving the 
name of Fort Cataraqui. Later, a massive stone fort 
was built by Count De Frontenac, and received his 
name. In 1762 the place was taken by the British, 
who gave it its present name. As a place of defense 
it stands next in strength to Quebec. The batteries 
of Fort Henry are calculated for the reception of 
numerous cannon and mortars of the largest calibre. 
These, together with neighboring martello towers, 
form a formidable defense against any aggressive 
movement which might be directed against the city. 
These fortifications are seen to excellent advantage 
from the steamer soon after it leaves the dock. 

On the right is Garden Island ; on the left. Cedar 
Island, and behind is Fort Henry. There is here, also, 
in view, the round stone towers referred to above. 
Near the middle of the river is Wolf, or Long Island, 
21 miles long, and 7 miles wide near the western end. 
There is nothing either of romance or historical 
episode to weave into our story, concerning the 
inhabitants of this, the largest of the Thousand Island 
group. Suffice it to say, that the territory is a portion 
of the Dominion of Canada, and that the habits of 
civilized life characterize the people. Between one 
channel and the main land there is St. John's or Howe 
Island, of no mean proportions. 



6o 

Ordinarily, we have now spent about one hour on 
the steamer from Kingston, and come to the point in 
in the channel where we must diverge either for 
Gananoque or Clayton. We are bound for Clayton 
and the American channel of the St. Lawrence River. 
(For descripton of Gananoque and the Canadian 
channel, see Route of the Island Wanderer, page 40.) 
As soon as the light-house on Burnt Island comes in 
view, we may be said to have fairly entered upon the 
real beauty of the " sacred river of America." Between 
here and Gananoque we pass many pretty little isles 
of six or eight acres. On the right is a range light, 
the boat, of course, passing between the two. It is 
said that from the deck of the steamer, one hundred 
islands can be counted — in fact, the panorama is 
probably matchless on the globe. While the islands 
are so numerous both on the right and left, the boat 
glides by without allowing the tourist to be distracted 
with the rapture of delight that is feasting his eyes. 
Some of these isles are scarcely more that barren 
rocks, while others are paradises of verdure. 

The time is early morning, the sun quite bright, and 
the atmosphere remarkably clear. The scene is now 
attractive. Look ahead in the distance a little to the 
left, and you will behold the eagle tree. Hundreds 
have been deceived with the idea that it was an actual 
live eagle, spreading its wings and soaring aloft to a 
height that the imagination can scarcely reach. It is 
a delusion; 'tis nothing but a tree, as its true features, 
or rather beautiful foilage, has deceived the eye of 
the novice of this region. 

On the left is Grindstone Island. On it is an organ- 
ized community. The inhabitants are farmers, and for 



6i 

the education of whose children a school is main- 
tained. On the right is Clayton. 

It may be well to state here that authorities (?) differ 
as to how many Islands there really are. Some say 
fifteen hundred ; some eighteen hundred, and others 
carefully write, nearly two thousand. Life is too 
short for us to stop and count these natural beauties, 
and even the pilots have no desire to win fame as 
statisticians by asserting the correct number. The 
"Phat Boy" has just issued the only correct map of 
the St. Lawrence River published, which will not be 
misleading to the student of the minute details. But 
we digress. 

CAPE VINCENT 
is a pleasant little village in Jefferson county, N. Y., 
at the junction of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence 
River. It is also the terminus of the Rome, Water- 
town and Ogdensburg Railroad, and connections by 
Steamer St. Lawrence are made to Alexandria Bay. 
Connections are made to Kingston by Steamer Maud. 

Let us here describe the American channel from 
Cape Vincent. 

As we steam out of this port, on the left is Long, 
or Wolf Island, 21 miles in length and 7 miles in 
width. The next on the right is 

CARLETON ISLAND. 

At the upper extremity the land narrows into a 
rugged promontory, ending in a bluff sixty feet in 
height. Here, lifting their ruined heads aloft, and 
plainly visible to all passers along the river, stand a 
number of toppling and half ruined chimneys. These 



62 

may be seen for miles around. So long have these 
old sentinels watched over the scenes around them 
that their history is lost in the misty past. Around 
them are the remaining ruins of an old fort, supposed 
by many to be the ruins of old Fort Frontenac. 
Around its old redoubts and parapets linger anti- 
quated historical legends and traditions enough to 
fill a volume, and forming an interesting study. An 
ancient well, cut in the solid Trenton Limestone down 
to the level of the lake, has been converted by the 
reckless imaginations of the natives into a receptacle 
of the golden doubloons which the French soldiers 
upon evb.cuating the old fort, are said to have thrown 
there, with the brass guns on top of them. Upon 
either side and immediately in front of the bluff upon 
which the old fort stands, is a quiet, pretty little bay, 
which may once have supplied a safe and easy anchor- 
age for the vessels that lay under its protecting guns. 

The fortress is supposed to have been one of impor- 
tance as a military post at some time, having been 
built upon an excellent plan and in the most substan- 
tial manner. Numbers of graves still occupy a field 
near by, the remains of the brave soldiers who once 
occupied the fort. The scene is of deep interest to 
the student of history. 

About six miles this side of Clayton is Lindsay 
Island, the only one on the right between Cape Vin- 
cent and Clayton. 

CLAYTON 

is in the American channel. In the distant front, 
just before landing, we have a magnificent view of 
Prospect Park and hill, a delightful spot for recrea- 



63 

tion and pleasure. No better view can be had of the 
islands and surrounding country than from the emi- 
nence of the hill. Clayton is our first stopping place. 
It is a village that derives its importance to tourists 
as being the terminus of the R., W. & O. R. R., Utica 
and Black River Division, and here it is where 
passengers from the East generally get their first 
glimpse of the St. Lawrence. There are three 
good hotels, the Hubbard, Walton and the West End ; 
kept by as genial landlords as ever lived, and from 
the town many fishing parties go out daily. The 
steamer St. Lawrence runs from this port in con- 
nection with the above named railroads to Alexandria 
Bay and other landing places en route. Opposite 
Clayton, on the left, as we proceed down the river, is 
Governor Island, owned by Hon. Thomas G. Alvord, 
of Syracuse. Next to Gov. Alvord's Isle, on the left, 
is Calumet, five acres, owned by Chas. G. Emery, of 
Old Judge cigarette and tobacco fame, w^ho has lav- 
ishly expended a large amount of money for comfort. 
His villa and apartments are quite striking, having 
i,ooo feet of dockage and a stone wall all around the 
island, 4,300 feet — the only island having an elevation 
of 35 feet and a perfect soil, all productive. He pur- 
chased the steam yacht Calumet, said to be the fastest 
yacht on the river. The next island on the left, about 
200 yards distant, is Powder Horn. The origin of 
this " euphonious" name has not been handed down 
by tradition. On the right is Washington Island ; on 
the left, nearly opposite, is Bluff Island, behind which 
is Robin's Island. Next, on the right, over two miles 
from Clayton, is 



64 

ROUND ISLAND 

and park. This is the property of the Baptist Asso- 
ciation, and every year people of this persuasion in 
large numbers, gather for religious worship and 
recreation. There is a temperance hotel, fitted up 
with the modern appointments, for the accommoda- 
tion of 300 guests, named the Round Island House. 
The docks are in excellent condition, and the fishing 
boats are favorites. On the left is Little Round 
Island and " Hog's Back." We have now several 
cottages in view; the one painted dark brown is 
owned by Mr. Harbodle. On the point is Ethelridge 
cottage, and many others not known to me, as they 
spring up as quickly as mushrooms do in an open 
field. 

Leaving Round Island, and looking in the distant 
front, we have a view of the Thousand Island Park. 
About one mile from Round Island, on the right, is 
Watch Island or " Indolence," owned by S. T. Skin- 
ner. On the left are Bluff, Maple and Hemlock, the 
three pretty islands fronting the foot of Grindstone 
Island. On Hemlock is the Clift House, owned by 
Mr. Garrison, of Syracuse. About five minutes after 
leaving Round Island, we come on the left in sight of 
Hub Island. A large hotel, the Hub House, occupied 
this site, but was burned in March, 1884; Grinneli's 
Island and House ; Otsego Camp is also on the left. 
On the right is Fisher's landing, Robinson's Island, 
owned by Eugene Robinson, New York, banker and 
broker, (he broke Drew). This island was purchased 
last year by W. C. McCord, of New York. Johnson's 
Light, Washburn Island and Frederick Island. Mr. 



65 

Johnson, the original light-house keeper, and after 
whom the island is named, was the man who burned 
the Robert Peel, the English vessel, in retaliation for 
sending the Caroline over Niagara Falls. 

Just before landing at Thousand Island Park, upper 
end of Wells Island, now called Wellesley Island, is 
Twin Island, owned by J. L. Huntington. On the 
left, and in connection with the Thousand Island Park, 
is the bath house, (in a dilapidated condition), where 
the Methodists can get baptism, a la Bob Ingersoll, 
with soap. Said to be good for this world, if not 
hereafter. We now land at 

THOUSAND ISLAND PARK. 

The boat stops at the western end of Wells Island, 
at a fine wharf and close to a large number of hand- 
some cottages. You can tell what the place is the 
moment you approach it. There is no mistaking a 
Methodist Summer Camp, find it where you will. It 
is always neat and clean and orderly. This is the 
Thousand Island Park, a Methodist resort, opened in 
1873. Although the scenery is somewhat marred by 
the great number of solemn-faced clergymen strolling 
about the grounds, it is still one of the most beautiful 
spots to be found among the islands. Camp-meet- 
ings are held here ; also Sunday school and temper- 
ance and educational conventions, and other meetings 
all through the summer. A large and spacious hotel 
was opened July loth 1883. The name was originally 
Thousand Island Camp Ground, but was changed in 
1878 to its present name. 

Again on our way, the first house on the left is 
owned by Harlow J. Remington, of Ilion, N. Y., 



66 

whose fame and fortune are in rifles. Next on the left 
is Wellesley House and beautiful cottage. On the 
left, handsome villas line the shore of the island. 
About half a mile from Fine View House is Jolly Oak 
Point, with its four cottages, two owned by the Nor- 
ton brothers, a third by Dr Ferguson, and the fourth 
by Hon. W. W. Butterfield, of Redwood. From here 
to Lookout Point is about half a mile ; and next is 
Rood's place, with a fine dock and good accommo- 
dations for tourists. About two hundred yards below 
is Peel's dock, where the boat Robert Peel was burned 
in 1837. This dock was rebuilt in 1884. Robbin's 
cottage, one hundred feet to the left, is Island Blanch 
owned by E. D. Buckingham ; a little below on the 
right is the farm of Captain Jack; you can see the old 
saw-mill in a dilapidated condition on the bank. 
Opposite on the left is the celebrated Limburger 
cheese factory. (Post mortem examinations held 
here weekly.) (This "goak " would take better if you 
was just introduced to Limburger for the first time.) 
On the right is Collins' dock ; below a few feet is 
Calumet Island and cottage, owned by Rev. Henry 
G. Waite, of Ilion, N. Y. On the right lies the 
remains of old Captain Jack's Boat, gone to rest. 
* * * * Here you are expected to drop a tear. 
Brown's Bay on the left and Swan Bay on the right. 
The next island on the right is owned by Mr. Moffet, 
of Watertown, N. Y. Passing the bays, we come on 
the right to Central Park, formerly Grinnell's Point 
and parade ground, purchased by parties and laid out 
for a park. Several large and beautiful cottages were 
built last season and many contemplated for this sea- 
son. On the left opposite on the bluff, is Hill's Crest, 



67 

owned by General Shields, of Philadelphia, Pa. 
Foot of Central Park is Page Point, a former wood 
station for the N. T. Co.'s line of steamers. On the 
right is 

POINT VIVIAN. 

Point Vivian is situated on the main shore of the St. 
Lawrence River, about two and one-half miles from 
Alexandria Bay. It was formerly owned by Captain 
W. H. Houghton, and was purchased by Messrs. 
George Ivers, John J. Kinney, Isaac A. Wood, Dr. L. 
E. Jones, R. Barnes, Rezot Tozer and E. Hungerford, 
in the fall of 1877 (all- of Evans Mills, N. Y), They 
had it surveyed into forty building lots, with parks, 
avenues and streets. A magnificent dock was built 
two hundred feet long, and any boat, from a skiff to 
an ocean steamer, can land here. 

Opposite Point Vivian on the left is Island Royal, 
owned by Royal E. Deane, of New York, firm of 
Bramall, Deane & Co. Mr. Deane is a very enthusiastic 
lover of the scenery as well as the hunting and fish- 
ing in this vicinity, coming to this, his summer home, 
quite early in the spring, and often remaining until 
winter fairly sets in, for nowhere else can he get such 
a variety of fish and game and have the surroundings 
so agreeable. Next on the left is Shady Covert, 
owned by Editor J. C. Covert, of tlie Cleveland Leader. 

After leaving Point Vivian, on the right is Curtis 
Point and cottage, which joins Rose Island by a 
bridge. Here is where ex-Mayor W. G. Rose, of 
Cleveland, O., enjoys his summers. The next is 
Alleghany Point, owned by J. S. Laney, of Pittsburg, 
Pa. The fence was built to keep the children from 



68 

falling into the river. Opposite on the left is Seven 
Isles owned by Gen. Bradley Winslow. Next on the 
right is Keppler Point, Bella Vista Lodge, owned by 
F. A. Bosworth, of Milwaukee, Wis This property, 

Bella Vista Lodge, was sold last year to Mr. , 

of Cleveland, O. Centennial, now Nah-Mahbin, 
meaning Twin Island or Lakes, is owned by Mr. J. 
H. Oliphant, of Brooklyn, N. Y. Comfort, in close 
proximity, is owned by A. S. Clark, of the Chicago, 
111., Board of Trade. His is the largest and finest 
cottage of the group. Next is H. H. Warner's Island, 
upon which $20,000 has been expended in the erection 
of his new cottage. Beyond is Hill's Island, also 
Devil's Rock and Oven. This gentleman has expended 
a large amount of money in building a stone wall 
around the same, and in many ways beautifying the 
surroundings. Beyond is Louisiana Point, owned 
by Judge La Batte, of New Orleans. Next on the 
left is Crag's Nest, owned by H. A. Laughlin, of 
Pittsburg, Pa On the right is Cuba Isle, owned by 
W. F. Storey, of Buffalo, N. Y. Next on the right 
is Chevey Island, the first cottage is owned by Rev. 
Rockwell. Next is Easton's Villa Stuyvesant. Next 
Rev. A. B. Pullman, and at the point C. B. Marsh, of 
Chicago, 111. A little further on is Edgewood Park, 
owned by a Cleveland stock company, who erected 
an elegant hotel to be opened this year, and contem- 
plate many changes the coming season ; also Edge- 
wood Cottage, owned by G. C. Martin, of Watertown, 
N. Y. Next on the right is Cherry Isle, upon which 
are erected several cottages; one is owned by Rev. 
George Rockwell, of Fulton, N.Y.; and J.W. Easton's 
villa, of Brooklyn, N. Y. Last season Mr. Easton, of 



69 

Brooklyn, erected a handsome villa, which he occu- 
pied during the season. The two large cottages are 
owned by A. B. Pullman and G. B. Marsh, of Chi- 
cago, 111.— named Ingleside and Melrose Lodge. 
Here the Hon. John A. Logan and wife were enter- 
tained for several days in 1885. Opposite, on the 
left, is Pullman, Nobby, Friendly, St. Elmo, Welcome, 
Florence, Imperial and Linlith Gow. This group 
may be seen in the order gis^en; beyond is West- 
minster Park, Hart's Island, Fairy Land and Dishler. 
We now shoot into. 

ALEXANDRIA BAY, 

which is three or four miles long and one and a half 
miles wide, reaching from the shore, on the American 
side, to Wells' Island. The chief feature around 
here is the grand hotels— the largest known as the 
•Thousand Island House, the finest building on the 
St. Lawrence River, which for the past five years, 
under the management of R. H. Southgate, Esq., and 
his able corps of assistants, Fred W. Lee, Harry 
Dowd, George Lee and Wm. T. Price, has been 
a grand success. The wet goods department is 
under the charge of Mr. John Brophy. Your 
slightest wish will be gratified, and you will be 
better pleased this year than ever before. From the 
bay fishing parties are constantly going out. The 
channels about the islands are the Paradise of fisher- 
men. The boats are the most convenient and comfort- 
able in the world, the boatmen the most accommo- 
dating, and the pickerel, pike and gamy black and 
rock bass and muscalonge, in the greatest abundance. 



70 



WESTMINSTER PARK. 

Opposite the Thousand Island House is Westmin- 
ster Park, on the lower end of Wells Island. This 
island is eight miles long and from three to four miles 
wide. On the other side of this island is the Cana- 
dian channel of the river, about half a mile wide. 
The lower end of the island is separated into two 
parts by one of the prettiest sheets of water that ever 
rippled against the bows of a canoe. This is called 
the " Lake of the Island," and it is connected with the 
river on both the American and Canadian sides by a 
narrow channel. The lake is five or six miles long, 
as smooth as glass, and is altogether too pretty and 
too romantic to attempt a description. 

Westminster Park was bought in 1874 by a Presby- 
terian stock company, and it now has about 15 miles 
of drives and some fine buildings. It has two long 
water fronts — one on the American side of the river 
and the other on the Lake of the Island, on the Cana- 
dian side. There is a high hill on the island called 
Mount Beulah, though after climbing it I think the 
Hill Difficulty would be a more appropriate name. 
There is a large chapel on the top of the hill, known 
as Bethune Chapel, with seating accommodations for 
a thousand persons, and with a tower 136 feet high, 
(was blown down in March, 1885), affording a beautiful 
view of the river and the islands. The name of the 
chapel recalls the fact that the late Rev. Dr. Geo. W. 
Bethune was the pioneer tourist through this region, 
and until his death continued to come here summer 
after summer for recreation. 



71 

AMONG THE ISLANDS. 

It must not be supposed that these hundreds of 
islands are all occupied and have cottages on them, or 
laid out with walks and fountains. For every island 
that has a house on it there are perhaps twenty that 
have none. The number of houses are increasing 
every year, and I think that in time nearly every 
island will be occupied in the Canadian channel as 
they are in the American. 

GANANOQUE. 

Here the captain announces a stay of twenty-five 
minutes for refreshments, remarking, also, that it 
takes twelve minutes to walk up town and twelve 
minutes back, with the remainder for refresh, which 
seems to my mind a little too fresh. Leaving 
Gananoque on time, we will return by the Canadian 
channel, which is more wild and picturesque, as far 
as scenery is concerned, although not one island or 
point is inhabited here to ten in the American channel. 
On the right is Kipp Island. Passing many beautiful 
islands and lighthouse, we arrive at Halstead's Bay — 
after passing which the islands come thick and fast, 
all sizes and shapes, from a little one for a cent to 
those done up in bunches, like asparagus, and you 
get a bunch for five. We pass very close to Ash 
Island, so near that moss has been plucked by pas- 
sengers on the boat. We soon arrive at Lind Light, 
on the right, and are coming to Uie Fiddler's Elbow. 
Lay this book aside at this point and feast the eye, 
for no writer could do the subject of a description 
justice. The King of Dwarfs, Gen. Tom Thumb, was 



72 

a passenger on the Wanderer one day when he asked 
the captain why he could not have an island. The 
captain, with his usual generosity, gave him one just 
'his size, and to commemorate the event has placed a 
monument there to his memory. We soon emerge 
from our land, or island-locked channel, and approach 
Darling's Dock. The dock is visible, but we have 
never seen the darling — after which comes Echo 
Point, where you can hear as many echos as you pay 
cents fare. Passing a farm-house on the right, we 
soon arrive on the left to Rockport; here you will 
observe we have but two seasons of the year, Ice and 
Rock; this is the rocky season. Turning to the right, 
we make direct for Westminster Park. Looking 
backward over the left shoulder, you will have a view 
of Idlewild and Sport Islands, owned by the Packers, 
of Pennsylvania. A better view of those islands 
may be obtained after leaving Westminster Park for 
Alexandria Bay. After passing the point, Hayden's 
Island, Fairyland comes in view. The little island, 
with cottage, is owned by Mr. Hasbrock, of Ogdens- 
burg, N. Y., called Pike Island. The next on the 
right is St. John's Island, owned by Judge Donahue, 
of New York. The next on the right is Manhattan 
group, owned by Judge Spencer and Hasbrock, of 
New York. A wooden bridge joins them together. 
This is the first island inhabited for recreation, and 
was bought by Seth Green, the fish culturist of New 
York State; on the left is Long Beach, Anthony's 
Point (the Ledges owned by C. J. Hudson, of New 
York) and Bonnie Castle; on the right is Dishler and 
Hart's Island. We next arrive at Alexandria Bay, 
from which we started most four hours ago. 



73 



BONNIE CASTLE. 

"Timothy Titcomb" (Dr. J. G. Holland, editor of 
Scril)?ier's Monthly), chose this point as a haven of rest 
and recuperation, and who does not commend his 
choice? It will be remembered that he died in New 
York shortly after leaving his cherished Bonnie 
Castle in 1881, for his arduous winter's labors. Next 
is The Ledges, owned by C. J. Hudson, of New York. 
Light house in the distance. 

A LETTER FROM SETH GREEN. 

NEW YORK STATE FISHERY COMMISSION, ) 

Office of the Superintendent, Rochester, N. Y., March 20th. f 

My Dear Little "Phat Boy": 

You request of me a letter for your book. Letter 
writing is not my forte, but you are welcome to use 
these facts. In 1855 I bought an island near Alexan- 
dria Bay, built houses upon it in the fall and moved 
there with my family the next spring, and lived there 
during the summers of 1856 and 1857. The year of 
1858 I spent a part of the season with a party of prom- 
inent gentlemen. During the time I was there, if I 
wanted black bass for breakfast I could take my two 
fly rods and take from five to ten black bass, by troll- 
ing around my island of four acres, and at any time 
after August ist, I could take my gun and kill a mess 
of ducks in a short time. There was a few deer on 
Welles Island then. I have killed fifty ducks in one 
day among the islands and I could take 100 black bas? 
with fly any day I wished. 



74 



LEAVING ALEXANDRIA BAY. 

Immediately opposite is Hart's Island, back of 
which is Deshler. Next on the left is 

MANHATTAN, 

the first island on which habitation was attempted. 
It was bought by Mr. Seth Green, the fish culturist of 
N. Y., in 1855. Hg built a cottage upon it and for 
several years spent his summers here. Mr. J. L. Has- 
brouck and Judge J. C. Spencer, of New York, pur- 
chased it from him. They have spent $15,000 upon 
the island. The original cottages built by Seth 
Green still remain and are used by them as dining 
room, etc. 

Between Deshler and Manhattan, looking back- 
ward, is Fairyland, owned by C. H. and W. B. Hay- 
den, of Columbus, Ohio. This is really one of the 
finest islands in the river. At a vast expense art Was 
triumphed over nature, transforming a barren into 
the loveliest of green lawns. Next on the left is 
Deer Island ; then 

SUMMERLAND. 

Summerland, one of the most beautiful of the 
"Thousand Islands," is located mid-way between the 
north and south channels of the St. Lawrence, about 
three miles below Alexandria Bay, having an area of 
fourteen acres, and is the largest of the " Summer- 
land group,'' which includes " Idlewild," "Sport," 
"Ida," and "Arcadia." The island is covered with a 
dense forest (furnishing an abundance of shade) and 



75 

is said to have the finest groves on the river. At the 
extreme northerly and southerly ends of the island 
there are extensive sandy beaches, a great rarity in 
this locality, which are used by the ** Summerlanders " 
for bathing purposes. The island is traversed from 
end to end by a most delightful natural avenue, 
densely shaded and lined on either side with a thick 
undergrowth of wild flowers and ferns. The island 
is owned by the Summerland Association, a corpora- 
tion organized under and by virtue of the laws of the 
State of New York. 

Between Deer Island and Summerland is Cedar; 
back of Cedar is Sport, owned by the estate of H. A. 
Packer, who died in 1884. The island, however, will 
be occupied this year by H. C. Wilbur, G. B. Linder- 
man, C. B. Newton and other friends. Anthony 
Point is on the right. Also The Ledges, owned by 
J. C. Hudson, of New York. This place is the resort 
of E. and T. H. Anthony, the extensive dealers in 
photographic goods in New York. 

Still continuing our course, looking to the right, is 
the cottage of Mrs. Clark, of Watertown. Next, 
Goose Bay is the island owned by Dr. Carleton, 
near which is the Three Sisters' Island; before the 
Three Sisters' is Hume's Island. Next, on the 
left, is Whiskey Island, and on the right opposite 
are a number of large and small islands, the 
names of which we will not weary the tourist's brain 
with. 

Goose Bay is really beautiful, if its name is slightly 
homely. It is studded with islands, and fishing 
abounds. It is here that Mr. Flubert R. Clark, of New 
York, in one day caught some 300 pounds of black 



76 

bass, ranging in weight from i^ pounds to 6}^ 
pounds. 

On the right is Lyon's dock and Meeker's island. 
Next, on the left is Three Sisters Light ; in the 
distance is Lone Star, or Dark Island; Island No. lo, 
it is called by some. After passing, on the left is 
a small cluster of island shoals. On the right is 
Chippewa Bay. This is a superb sheet of water, where 
the fishing is a marked feature. It is a favorite resort 
of Ogdensburg people, who occupy the contiguous 
islands. All around the shore are camps, cottages, 
etc., and make an animated scene for the tourist. 
Three miles from Chippewa Bay on the left is Cross- 
over light ; thence, three miles to Cole's light on the 
left, where we enter the Canadain channel. Nine 
miles in the distance is Brockville. On the right 
opposite Cole's light is Oak point. Four miles below is 
Allen's landing, a very popular place for picnics, etc. 
On the left, a prominent bluff. On the right for six 
miles the islands come thick and fast; huge rocks rise 
from the water's surface, with very little vegetation 
or foliage, and the boat makes her way rapidly among 
them, winding around like a snake, heading for all 
the points of the compass, frequently getting herself 
into coves and bays that apparently have no outlet, 
but always finding a channel, and sailing triumphantly 
out into the broad waters again. 

A little beyond is St. Lawrence Park, used for 
pleasure and picnic parties, especially by our Canadian 
friends of Brockville. We are now at the village of 
Brockville. 

In front of Brockville are the last three of the 
Thousand Islands ; being some distance from the rest, 



77 

it is presumable they drifted away, and fianlly 
rooted here. This, however, was " long befo' de 
wah I " 

Opposite, on the right, is Morristown, a small, 
lively American village, of about i,ooo inhabitants, a 
station on the Utica and Black River R. R., connects 
with Brockville by two steam ferries. 

BROCKVILLE 

was named in honor of General Brock, who fell in 
the battle of Queenstown Heights in 1812. It is 
situated on the Canadian side of the St. Lawrence 
River, and is one of the pleasantest villages in the 
Province. It lies at the foot of the Thousand Islands 
on an elevation of land which rises from the river in 
a succession of ridges. The town was laid out in 
1802, and is now a place of considerable importance. 
The present population is about 7,000. 

After leaving the wharf, the boat passes the most 
beautiful cliff on the river, the Palisades of the St. 
Lawrence, on which are erected magnificent mansions 
and suburban residences and villages of Canada's 
distinguished sons. The most prominent of these is 
the son of Sir Hugh Allen, whose residence is really 
superb. The sightseer can observe the winding stairs, 
boat and bath houses and other appointments for 
recreation. 

Having left Brockville, a magnificent view greets 
the eye; islands are not now in view; the river is a 
most beautiful sheet of water, running perfectly 
straight for about sixteen miles with the land on 
either side in good view, for the river is a little over 



78 

two miles wide. Three miles from Morristown, on 
the right, is a camp ground of the Baptist persuasion, 
mostly from St. Lawrence County. Five miles on 
the left from Brockville is Maitland. At this point 
is a prominent object known as the old distillery, 
whose proprietor is said to have been worth, at one 
time, a million dollars, but whose cupidity during 
"America's unpleasantness" led him into selling 
"crooked whiskey," or rather disposing of his dis- 
tillery products in a very "crooked" way. Without 
going into the details, the facts in brief are: He 
antagonized the Canadian government in the matter 
of paying revenue, and in his fight for stupid 
supremacy, he not only lost his distillery, but his 
fortune too, and he and his family became reduced to 
poverty, and none of them remain around their 
former home. It is said he first induced his niece to 
marry the revenue collector of the district, that he 
might carry on the nefarious business in collusion 
and without detection, but, you see, 

" The deep laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee." 

About four miles below, on the left, is the old blue 
stone church, in the graveyard of which rests the 
remains of the founder of Methodism on this conti- 
nent, Barbara Heck. One mile farther, on the left, is 
McCarthy's new brick brewery. Half a mile beyond 
is the celebrated Rysdick stock farm, owned by J. P. 
Wiser, M. P. Here is owned the celebrated stallion 
Rysdick, which cost Mr. Wiser $25,000. It is a farm 
of about six hundred acres, and is unquestionably the 
finest stock farm in the Dominion of Canada. The 
thrift, energy and ability of this gentleman will not 
be wondered at when it is learned that he is of 



79 

American birth. Next, on the left, is the celebrated 
Labatt's brewery and 

PRESCOTT, 

with its 3,000 inhabitants, who seem to have lost their 
grip on the trade of the river, judging from the 
dilapidated condition of the stores, warehouses, etc., 
on the wharves. The town, however, is handsomely- 
laid out, has a fine city hall and market, and there are 
many fine private residences. It is connected with 
Ottawa, capital of the Dominion, by the St, Lawrence 
and Ottawa Railroad, distance 54 miles. Here many 
tourists who desire to visit the capital disembark for 
that purpose. We refer the tourist to Daniels' hotel 
as a good stopping place. L. H. Daniels has taken 
the hotel and spent $8,000 in improvements; he is too 
well known to the traveling public to need any praise 
from me. Opposite is 

OGDENSBURG, 

founded by Francis Picquit in May, 1749- It now 
contains about 10,000 people, and of course ranks as 
a city. It is the terminus of the Rome and Water- 
town, Utica and Black River, and the Ogdensburg 
and Lake Champlain railroads. It is beautifully laid 
out, well planted with maple trees, and is called the 
" Maple City." It has a United States Custom 
House, post-office, and a new opera house, costing 
1150,000, six fine church edifices, water works, gas 
works, a fire alarm telegraph and two daily news- 
papers, and possibly other modern improvements. 
At the lower end of town is the big elevator of 
the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain Railroad, 



8o 

' One mile and a half below Prescott, on the left, is 
Windmill Point ; the old windmill has been turned 
into a lighthouse. Here, in 1837, the ''Patriots," 
under Von Schultz, a Polish exile, established them- 
selves, but from which they were driven with severe 
loss. We believe this Von Schultz was subsequently 
hung by the Canadian authorities, and his followers 
banished, probably to New Jersey. On the left, a 
little below the lighthouse, is the residence and farm 
of W. H. McGannon, the oldest pilot on the St. Law- 
rence river, the man who first took the Passport, of 
the Richelieu line, down the Long Sault Rapids, in 
July, 1847. I 3^ni also indebted to him for the correct- 
ness of my New Map of the St. Lawrence and other 
information of benefit to me and the public. 

Three miles below, on the left, is Johnstown Bay, 
with Johnstown — not a very important trading post — 
overlooking. This place has a custom house officer, 
commissioner of fisheries, mayor and marshal of the 
district ; but these important officials are concentrated 
in one man. 

We turn here to the right, leaving the far-famed 
Chimney Island on the left, on which are said to be 
the ruins of old French forts, battlements, etc. The 
only remains we have. discovered of these supposed 
formidable defences is an extensive moat around the 
island, twelve feet deep, filled with water. The 
chimney, from which it derives its name, is supposed 
to be on the island, but we have looked in vain to 
discover it. It may be, however, that it has floated 
down the river ; we will speak of it further on. 

In the distance, on the left, are Tick, or Pier 
Islands. Some ot the finest bass fishing in the river 



8r 

is off this old pier. Dr. Melville, of Prescott, the 
inventor of rheumatic victor, and an enthusiastic 
fisherman of this section, last summer caught a black 
bass weighing seven and one-half pounds while 
enjoying the sport around the pier. 

Three miles from Chimney Island, in the distance, 
is what is termed "the cut," forming the channel 
between Galop and Moore's islands. It was the 
former channel of this line of boats, but the Dominion 
government is expending six million of dollars for 
the enlargement of the canals of this route, and the 
survey party at present are blasting a channel through 
the 

GALOP RAPID, 
which may be seen in the distance. The reason of 
the change of channel is formed with an edict of the 
pilots not to interfere with the work of the engineer 
corps engaged on this necessary improvement of 
excavating a fifteen foot channel, to allow larger 
boats to pass, and dispense with the use of the 
Edwardsburg canal. This is the first and smallest 
rapid on the St. Lawrence River, and as the Phat Boy 
has termed it, "a little one for a cent." I will, how- 
ever, give you an idea of what the rapids are. All 
the rapids on this river are caused by numerous rocks, 
large and small, in the bed of the river, and the swift 
current of water passing over these rocks causes the 
fearful commotion that you observe. Now, to carry 
our philosophy a little farther, we say the larger the 
rock and the stronger the current, the better the 
rapids. No rocks, no water, no current, no rapids ! 
This commotion which you see here is caused by a 
ledge of rocks five and one-half feet in height under 



nine feet of water. You can see the swell and white 
cap which this rock occasions, and then use your best 
judgment to determine the height of the rocks in 
Long Sault, where we hope to arrive at one o'clock. 
(There are, let me state here, eight rapids on our trip 
to-day, which may be divided into two classes, first 
and second. The first class are Long Sault, meaning 
a long leap or jump; Cedar, deriving its name from 
the trees in the vicinity, and Lachine. The second 
class are Galop, meaning a hopping, jumping rapid ; 
Rapid Piatt, meaning in French, flat ; Chateau du 
Lac, meaning foot of the Lake ; Split Rocks, derived 
from a fissure which makes the channel, and the 
Cascade, from its resemblance to a cascade.) 

On the left, before arriving at the Galop rapids, is 
the entrance to the Edwardsburg canal. This canal 
is seven and one-half miles in length, and is the first 
canal we arrive at ; its terminus is at Iroquois. It 
would be well here to say that we only have canals 
around the rapids, or where the current is too strong 
for a steamer to ascend. We here append a tabular 
statement of the 

ST. LAWRENCE CANALS. 

Edwardsburg canal, 7}^ miles long, three locks, 14 
feet fall in the river; Morrisburg canal, 4 miles long, 
2 locks, iij^ feet fall ; Farron's Point canal, % mile 
long, I lock, 4 feet fall ; Cornwall canal, 12 miles 
long, 7 locks, 48 feet fall ; Beauharnor's canal, ii>^ 
miles long, 9 locks, S-i feet fall; Lachine canal, 9 
miles long, 5 locks, 45 feet fall. 

In the distance, on the left, is the village of Edwards- 
burg, now called Cardinal. Here is located the 



83 

Edwardsburg starch factory, the largest in the 
Dominion of Canada. The president of the company 
is the Hon. Walter Shanley, of Hoosac Tunnel fame. 
He was the great contractor who completed that 
wonderful piece of work, and is now manager of the 
St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railroad. 

Twenty minutes from Edwardsburg to the next 
point of interest. 

Distinguished among Indian names is that of 
Iroquois. Here it names a village, formerly known 
as Matilda; but, like all other good Matildas do, she 
changed her name to Iroquois, in order to preserve 
the name. The Iroquois Indians formerly owned this 
section of country. One and a half miles below this 
village, is the narrowest point in the St. Lawrence 
River, from Kingston to the gulf. This broad expanse 
of water we are just passing, and the one we arrive at 
iaimediately after leaving the point, are very shallow, 
consequently holds the water in check at the point — 
the depth of water in the shallow places being about 
2 2 feet, while at the point it is 84 feet. Width of the 
river 1,140 feet— 170 feet less than a quarter of a 

mile. 

On the right in the narrowest portion of the river is 
Cedar Point. On the left is a small bluff, formerly 
called Hemlock Point, on account of a fine hemlock 
standing there ; but on one fine morning the hemlock, 
the tree and the point all slid into the river, and have 
not yet returned. About fifteen feet back from the 
point is a rail fence, which is outside of the earth- 
works that were thrown up in 181 2-13, and batteries 
were erected on Cedar Point. 

On the left is the main shore of the Dominion of 



^^4 

Canada, with a population of over five millions. On 
the rio^ht is the main shore of the United States of 
America, with a population of over fifty millions. 
When the five millions want those fifty millions all 
they will be obliged to do is to walk over and take 
them. Then will be verified that beautiful passage in 
Holy Writ which says, "One shall chase a thousand 
and two put ten thousand to tlight. " Sing ! 

This was really a strong point, and was fortified on 
both sides of the river by the opposing parties. From 
the fact of the successful fortifications by the Ameri- 
cans the Rideau Canal owes its orioin. Guns and 
stores or merchandise could not be taken up the river. 
It was conceived by Ct)lonel By, of the engineer corps, 
that a new canal would obviate the ditliculty, and all 
his resources were immediately put into requisition, 
and the canal was completed at a cost of $5,000,000. 
It extends from Ottawa, formerly By-town, to Kings- 
ton, and is still in use. 

Ten minutes from here to the next point of interest. 
On the left is the entrance to the Morrisbug Canal, 
the second canal in the chain, but it is not used by 
this line of boats. All tows and sailing vessels have 
to vise the canals. In the distance front is Rapid Piatt; 
on the right is Ogden's Island, the finest wooded 
island in the St. Lawrence River. Beyond is Wad- 
dington, St. Lawrence county, N.Y. In front is this 
rapid we have just named ; it is the second one, and 
is ''a little one for two cents." It has, however, eight 
feet more descent than the first, but is only a one cent 
descenter rapid. 



85 



MORRISBURG. 



After passing the point, Morrisburg conies into view 
on the left — the prettiest villac^e in tlie Dominion of 
Canada. Look at its cliiirches, public buildings, 
private residences, and hotels (the St. Lawrence Hall 
is kept by W. TL McGannon & Brother, and I can 
say cheerfully no better hotel in town), that greet the 
eye, for we are still in the Province of Ontario. At 
half past three o'clock we enter the Province of 
Quebec. You will have a good chance then to com- 
pare the ditlerence between the two Provinces. Your 
especial attention is called to this now, that you may 
be prepared to scan the change you will not fail to 
observe. Before reaching Morrisburg is Doran's 
Island, which was rented by Mr. C)/ Doran of I lie St. 
Regis Indians for one dollar per year, and they come 
every year 60 miles to collect one dollar. A railroad 
bridge was to have been completed at this point 
during the present year. Opposite Morrisburg is 
Dry Island, used for picpics, etc. 

One hour from this point to the Long Sault Rapids. 
We speak of this here, for it is about dinner time, 
and if you ai'e lucky enough to secure a seat at the 
first table you will lose no point of interest, for it is 
presumable you will finish within the hour. 

THE CUISINE ON THE BOAT. 

It will not be amiss here to state that the meals 
were formerly served on the American plan, in the 
upper saloon, and to give you but a faint idea of the 
commotion created by the passengers when thei*e was 
one more person on board than seats at the table, 



86 

would require a volume ten times this size to describe. 
Therefore, please excuse me if I relate by v^^ay of 
illustration what an eminent writer said on the sub- 
ject: "The waiters, like little puppets, would bob up 
serenely at any time and place, drop a dish or what- 
ever the hand contained, and were as soon out of 
sight. This continued for about one hour, while we 
were seated back against the cabin wall, with just 
space enough for the waiter to pass between us and 
the table. When the signal was given everybody 
made a rush for the table, and if the scene depicted 
could only be described humorously or otherwise, 
I would like to read it." But the writer said it 
reminded him of the famous picture in her Majesty's 
gallery, '' The Rape of the Sabines." (I have never 
seen the picture, but presume it is that of a beautiful 
female poised as a central figure, and about ten soldiers 
ready to embrace her on a given signal.) Things 
have changed, however, and this season the meals 
will be served on the American plan, run by the com- 
pany, who have secured the best stewards, etc., to 
superintend the service, to the end that everyone may 
be pleased. The upper saloon will not be used, but 
what was formerly known as the ladies' cabin, and 
the cabin below, has been refitted, containing ample 
table room for everybody, and will be the dining 
rooms; there have also been added a new kitchen, 
steam tables, etc., which gives the whole saloon as a 
promenade and place of repose and rest for the pas- 
sengers. I am positive the change will be acceptable. 
About a mile pelow Morrisburg, on the right, is 
Gooseneck Island, so called from its resemblance to 
to the neck of a goose; the upper end is the neck; 



87 

the narrative is about nine miles long. Five miles 
from Morrisburg to 

CHRYSLER'S FARM, 

memorable for the battle fought on this ground in the 
year 1813. The Americans were the attacking party 
on this occasion, having arisen early in the morning, 
crossed the river into the little bay, landed, and imme- 
diately go^e into the contest by attacking the little 
house. The fight was desperate, lasting until eleven 
o'clock, when the Americans, under General Williams, 
were repulsed with great slaughter. The house was 
completely riddled with bullets. It has since been 
torn down and the chimney left as a monument to the 
battle. They retreated in good order, re-crossed the 
river and remained, having abandoned the trip to 
Montreal, which they intended. I draw this mild, 
because I am one of " God's people" myself. 

Next in interest is Farron's Point, opposite which 
is Croyl's Island. Six minutes from here to Long 
Sault Rapids ; we pass on the left Harrison's Landing. 

LONG SAULT ISLAND. 

At this point there are really two channels, the 
American channel being on the right of Long Sault 
Island, the rapids forming the Canadian channel, and 
are on the left of the island. The distinguishing 
feature about tlie American channel is, while it is 
swift in current, it has no rapids worthy of note, and 
the channel is used for tows, etc., and all the rafts 
naturally prefer this way, because it would be impos- 
sible for them to go down the Long Sault. 

In the distant front observe a light-house at the head 



ss 

of the Cornwall canal This canal is twelve miles in 
length, and passes around the Long Sault Rapids. 

The boats are steered from landmarks on shore ; by 
that small ball you see on the end of the pole, which 
is the bow-sprit. The target that you see in the dis- 
tance is used by the pilot to get his position in Long 
Sault Rapids. These targets will be seen frequently 
as you progress, and as they all answer the same pur- 
pose, this reference to them will suffice. 

LONG SAULT RAPIDS. 

Dickinson's Landing, on the left, was formerly a 
very important point on this line, as it was the foot 
of navigation before the canal was completed, some 
forty years ago. Few changes have taken place since, 
that are apparent to the eye. The Long Sault is the 
first one of the first-class rapids, and the third one in 
line proceeding down the river, and as we set a price 
on the other two you can set your own price on this 
one. A description of these rapids has been given 
from time immemorial ; it does not belioove us to 
give any graphic or colored description of this scene, 
although we might do so satisfactorily, having seen 
depicted on the countenances of thousands of passen- 
gers who have passed this way everything in nature, 
from the sublime to the ridiculous, as well as between 
the two, and as each individual's feelings differ, no 
one description would do the subject justice. One 
writer said : "It was sliding down hill on a steam- 
boat." Another said he felt as if he was being unglued ! 
A third said he felt as if he had taken a large dose of 
ipecac. Still another as if he was on a ship at sea in 
a storm. And vet one more was so exhilerated that 



89 

he imagined he owned Maud S. and would like to 
spend his days on the rapids. Another party who had 
ridiculed the trip a good deal, until the spray began 
to cover the deck, wetting them to the skin, drench- 
ing their store clothes, which, when dried, revealed 
awkward misfits, exclaimed that "it was the grandest 
sight they ever witnessed." 

I could enlarge upon other descriptions, but prefer 
to give the Phat Boy a privilege to relate a few facts 
— no "taffy." All the boats of this line are built of 
Bessemer steel or iron, with three and one-half inches 
of elm riveted close to the iron on the bottom outside 
to prevent accidents rf we should strike against a 
rock. This precaution was found necessary, because 
the first iron boat that struck a rock became a total 
wreck. With the protection of elm no injury has 
resulted from the occasional striking of the boats 
against the rocks. There is no danger, however, in 
this rapid, for the water in the shallowest place is 
thirteen and one-half feet, and we are drawing about 
seven feet. During our passage through all the rapids, 
we have four men at the wheel and four men at the 
tiller aft, who assist the men at the wheel. Any acci- 
dent that should happen to the chain or the wheel, 
the pilot immediately goes to the right hand of the 
tiller. 

The Long Sault rapid is nine miles long; three 
miles of boisterous commotion ; six miles of current 
and sudden sharp turns. When we first enter the 
rapid the steam on board of the boat is slowed down 
until she gets her position in the rapids, as she draws 
less water than when under full head of steam. We 
Eire then compelled to put on full steam, as the boat 



90 

must go faster than the current in order to obtain 
steerage way. Many suppose that no steam is used 
through the rapids, which is an error. If we were to 
attempt to go down without any propelling power, 
we would be at the mercy of the current of this stu- 
pendous agitation called rapids. One couldn't tell 
which end of the boat would be first, and it is pre- 
sumable that this would be anything but pleasant to 
the passenger, for he would go down the same as a 
log ; no one could tell which end of the boat would be 
first — anything but pleasure to the passengers. 

When we first enter this rapid, the finest view is 
obtained on the right side of the boat. It is expected, 
however, that the passengers will distribute them- 
selves equally on either side to keep the boat in good 
trim the Captain generally uses the '' Phat Boy " for 
this purpose; when he is not on board the passengers 
are expected to distribute themselves. The view, how- 
ever, soon changes to the left, and when nearing the 
point the swell and white caps run from seven to 
eleven feet in height. 

We have already explained the cause of the rapids. 
Now, will any one please explain to me what is the 
height of the rocks which create this commotion, and 
at the same time set their price on this rapid. After 
passing this point and the swell and white caps that 
we have been describing, on the left is the passage to 
the Canadian channel of this river, which forms 
Earnhardt's Island. On the right is the American 
channel. This was formerly used by boats before 
they came down the Long Sault, which for a long 
time was known as the lost channel. This channel 
having been lost for some years, it was discovered by 



gi 

Captain Rankin, who received for that service a 
magnificent silver watch, tlie value of which at tlie 
present day would be about $6.50. The first steam- 
boat of this line that passed through the Long Sault, 
was the Passport (tliis year the New Passport takes 
her place in tlie line), in 1847, ^"^ the pilot was W. 
H. McGanon, who is still in the employ of the com- 
pany. The soundings were made by scows and rafts, 
with poles attached to the sides, of 3 to 15 feet in 
length, and as either of these met an obstruction 
and became dislodged or broken off, the depth of the 
water was ascertained and a record made. The pro- 
pelling power of these scows or rafts was oars or 
large paddles, worked by from 10 to 40 men as the 
necessities of each required. 

The steamer Gill was the first boat through the 
rapids, and went down more by accident than other- 
wise, but it demonstrated the certainty of a channel. 

Earnhardt's Island, on the left, j}^ miles in length 
by 4>^ miles in width, belongs to the United States. 
On the right is the main land, St. Lawrence County, 
N. Y. Both sides of the river for the next seven 
miles belong to the United States. The King of 
Holland, who was the arbitrator of the treaty of 1812, 
from charts, maps, etc., furnished him, supposed that 
the main channel of the river passed around that 
island on the left. He was mistaken, however; this 
is the main channel of the river, and the only navi- 
gable one; the Canadian channel containing only 
about 3^2 or four feet of water. 

During the next eight minutes we pass three very 
sudden turns in the river; the first turn is to the 
right; then to the left; next to the right again; the 



92 

second turn being the sharpest on the St. Lawrence 
River; at direct angles turning to the left. Passen- 
gers on the left side of the boat, by looking backward, 
have a fine view of that portion of the river we have 
just passed, and looking forward see where we are 
compelled to go, and more easily note the sharpness 
of the turn. Rafts entering the American channel 
at the foot of the Long Sault rapids will drift 
nine miles in forty minutes, and are often thrown 
on shore on either side in making this sudden 
turn. After making our next turn to the right, by 
looking in the distance front, between the narrow 
point, we discover what is known as "The Crab." 
The current crosses here from right to left, then left 
to right, and from right to left, forming the letter Z. 
Rafts get entangled in this portion of the river, and 
are easily torn to pieces. 

There is a ferry boat plys between this point, on 
the right Macenia point and Cornwall point on the 
left, touching at two places on Earnhardt's island, to 
convey passengers who are desirous of visiting 
Macenia Springs, six miles distant. The steamboat is 
a side-wheeler, two horses tread the power that 
revolves the wheels ; it is therefore a two-horse 
boat ; they convey the steam on board in a bag well 
filled with oats. The deck hand is the cook ; the cook 
is the engineer ; the engineer is the mate, and the 
mate is the captain ; one man supreme command ; no 
mutiny, ever occurs, unless the mule should kick the 
deck hand overboard — that would be sl^^ muli^y," would 
it not ? 

On the left is the entrance to the Canadian channel 
at the end of Earnhardt's island. Two miles below 



93 

on the right is the last of the American shore on the 
St. Lawrence, lat. 45 ° N. Some few years ago I 
was presented by one of the firms in the city, with an 
American flag, fifteen feet in length, to designate the 
last of the United States shore on this river. Through 
the assistance of a friend at Cornwall, and thirteen 
dollars in cash, I succeeded in getting the flag in 
position. It remained there for about ten days, when 
a party of St. Regis Indians, who occupy a reserva- 
tion six miles distant, the other side of the island — 
four of them, came over to the point, filled them- 
selves full of ''ice water," climbed up the flag-staff, 
and took down the flag. They cut it up into three or 
four suits of clothes, and went around this vicinity 
for about a week as full as a boiled oyster, singing 
" Hail Columbia, right side up," rolled up in the 
Stars and Stripes, full of firewater; it was said to be 
the happiest moment of their lives, and I have no 
reason to doubt it. On June 7th, 1887, I was pre- 
sented by Mr. S. Carsley, the leading dry goods mer- 
chant of Montreal, with another splendid American 
flag, and I hope when placed in position it may wave 
until I cease issuing this little volume, and on white 
wings, etc., etc. 

That portion of the river on the right is the divid- 
ing line for five miles ; afterwards an iron fence or 
posts, set at equal distance apart, mark the boundary 
line. The river passing around the way forms Corn- 
wall island, about six miles v/ide. Rafts enter this 
portion of the river where the Racket river empties 
in, and are here refitted preparatory to being towed 
through the lake. Both sides of the river from this 
point downward belong to the Dominion of Canada. 



94 

In the distance, on the left is Cornwall, a village of 
5,000 people, with the largest cotton and woolen mills 
in the Dominion. Since the protectiye tariff was 
inaugurated by the Dominion Parliament, these 
industries have thrived wonderfully, and the town is 
correspondingly prosperous. The large round tower 
is the water works reservoir. Just before landing, a 
fine view is obtained of both the old and new Corn- 
wall canals. Looking at the old canal lock, and 
learning its dimensions, it is obvious why the steam- 
ers are their present size and no longer. These steam- 
ers are the limit which the locks will admit, hence if 
they were five feet longer or a trifle wider, they 
would be compelled to remain at Montreal, not being 
able to work through the locks. The new canal 
which is alongside of the old one, will have locks roo, 
feet longer than the present ones in use, consequently 
much larger boats will be able to ply the river. The 
old canal was considered amply large when built ; it 
was not supposed that the travel on tire St. Lawrence 
would ever reach its present and constantly increasing 
numbers. 

After leaving Cornwall, on the right is Cornwall 
Island, 6 miles wide. Just beyond the island, on the 
right bank of the river, is St. Regis, an old Indian 
village, which cannot be seen from the deck of the 
steamer. But there is just one point where the 
church roof can be observed for a moment or so. 
There is, however, a tradition worth relating here : 
The bell hanging in this church is associated with a 
deed of genuine Indian revenge. On its way from 
France it was captured by an English cruiser and 
taken to Salem, Massachusetts, where it was sold to 



95 

the church at Deerfield, in the same state. Tlie 
Indians, hearing of the destination of their bell, set 
out for Deerfield, attacked the town, killing forty- 
seven of the inhabitants, and took 112 captives, among 
whom was the pastor and his family. The bell was 
then taken down and conveyed to St. Regis, where it 
now hangs. 

During the next ten miles of our trip, the river is 
beautifully studded with islands, and resembles the 
Thousand Islands scenery very much. Many of these 
islands are inhabited ; someol them elegantly laid out 
with driJk^es, etc. Rev. Mr. Dickinson's, called after 
himself, has a dock, atwhich steamers of this size can 
land; it has a hotel, number of cottages, and is quite 
a gay place in summer. On the lett side is Summers 
Town, .beyond which is Hamilton's island. Just 
before reaching Summers Town is the residence of 
Captain Cameron, of the Cultivature of this line ; 
beyond is the magnificent villa of Hon. Caribou 
Cameron, the finest on the St. Lawrence. It is built 
of Ohio freestone and cost J8o,ooo. Hamilton Island, 
on the left, is occupied every summer by camping 
parties, who come from great distances, even from 
Virginia and Ohio, and remain two, three, and even 
four months. Day after day, one of their principal 
amusements is rowing out in their small boats, 
awaiting the arrival of the steamers, and then swiftly 
ridi>ng on top of the swell that is occasioned by the 
wheels of the steamer. The scene is exciting and 
picturesque. On the right we now have a fine view of 
the Adirondack Mountains of Northern New York, and 
beyond, the Green Mountains of Vermont, except it 
be a smoky or misty day, when the view is slightly 



96 

obscured. It is 56 miles from the river to the moun- 
tains, and intervening is the v^ilderness of the State of 
New York, known as the John Brown tract, more 
famous as the hunting ground of adventurous gun- 
ning and fishing parties. 

Continuing our course, we pass three small islands 
and enter Lake St. Francis, 28 miles in length — a very- 
picturesque sheet of water indeed ; but the trip 
through the lake is quite monotonous, therefore, for 
the next two hours, the guide, as well as the passen- 
gers, can " take a rest." This being a favorite route 
for honeymoon parties, there is now two full hours 
for these couples to enjoy the " honey " or the "moon," 
as seemeth to them best. After making this announce- 
ment one day, 3 left the deck ; one, however, was an 
old bachelor, who went to curl his hair. 

In the center of the lake, on the left, is the village 
of Lancaster, an old Scotch settlement. Just before 
reaching the village, what appears to be a stack of 
hay, is commonly known throughout Scotland as a 
Cairn. It is no more nor less than a heap of stones in a 
rounded or conical form, placed in that way to com- 
memorate some especial historic event. This one was 
built by the Glengarry Highlanders in 1847, to per- 
petuate the memory of Sir John Colburn,who was Com- 
mander-in-chief of the Army and Governor-General 
of the province. It was built by patting cobble-stones 
one on top of the other — each individual inhabitant or 
stranger passing that way adding a stone. See Queen 
Victoria's Book, where she describes helping to build 
a Scotch Cairn with the assistance of John Brown, 
and one will get a better idea of how to build a Cairn. 
The county in which this place is located is named 



97 

Glengarry, and is mainly or almost wholly inhabited 
by the sturdy Scotch Highlanders, whose farms are of 
the finest in the Dominion. This is the last English 
speaking village on the route. 

Passing three lighthouses, showing that the channel 
across the lake is quite intricate, we leave St. Anisette 
on the right, a small French town. We are now 
approaching the boundary line between the Provinces 
of Ontario and Quebec. The liehthouses on either 
side show the geographical divisions. From the 
lighthouse on the left the line runs straight to the 
Ottawa River; then the Ottawa becomes the dividing 
line. Just before arriving at the foot of the lake, 
where the river re-forms, we pass San Zotique; next 
Coteau Landing, where we call for the purpose of 
taking on a pilot, 

EDWARD WILLETT, 

whose duty it is to pilot this line of boats through 
the next series of rapids, and the Lachine also through 
to Montreal; we are now coming to four rapids: 
first, the Coteau; second. Cedar; third, Split Rock, 
and fourth, the Cascades. The Canada Atlantic 
Railroad running from Ottawa, the capital of the 
Dominion, to Coteau Landing, the railroad ferry at 
this point conveys whole trains to Valley Field, 
where connections are made for Boston and New 
York. A bridge was to be completed this year and 
the Ferry discontinued. The shortest route from the 
capital to those points. On the extreme right, at the 
foot of the lake, is the village of Valley Field. It is 
at the head of Beauhornias Canal, ii^ miles in 
length, which passes around this series of rapids. 



98 

The river, in iij^ miles, has a fall of 84 feet. The 
finest water power privilege on the continent of 
America, except Niagara, is at this point. The 
largest cotton mill in the Dominion, the Canada 
Paper Co.'s mill, anxi several other manufacturing 
establishments are located at Valley Field. After 
leaving St. Francis Lake, we re-enter the river. 
With our pilot we go down the small rapid known as 
the Coteau, passing. Prisoner's Island on the left, and 
on the left bank is the old French village of Coteau 
du Lac. On the extreme left at the point is an old 
French fort, where battles were fought in 18 12 and 
1813; the earthworks are still in a good state of 
preservation, behind which is the old saw-mill. 
Twenty minutes (or five miles) from this point to the 
Cedar Rapids, then you will "see der Rapid" that 
is a Rapid — the most Rapid Rapid of all the Rapids. 
Opposite the rapid is the village of Cedar on the left 
and St. Timothy on the right, the Cedar Rapid the 
finest upon the St. Lawrence River. Look at St. 
Timothy, bear in mind the view you have of Morris- 
burg; the impression of its beauty and thrift, and 
now you have the comparison. How does the former 
strike you as against the latter? It is a historic fact, 
and worthy of note, that no matter what town you 
arrive at in the Province of Quebec, this will be 
apparent to the eye: the finest buildings in the place 
will be the church, nunnery, school, hospital and 
priest's residence. Aside from these, the rest are all 
about alike. You cannot tell the palace residence 
from the blacksmith's shop, or the grocery store from 
the hotel. The church at St. Timothy has a seating 
capacity of 1,500; the population of the village is 



99 

6oo; the church is always full on Sundays, and as 
Mark Twain exclaimed, " What large donies these 
worshippers must have to their pantaloons for 600 to 
fill a place capable of seating 1,500.'' But they come 
from all the country around, being all of one per- 
suasion. An opposition church is so far unknown in 
these rural parts, hence it may be inferred what the 
extraordinary power of this old church must be in 
the lower province. 

Speaking to one of the priests one day regarding 
the amount of money collected by them from the 
poor to build and maintain their institutions, I asked 
him how it was, and he remarked that the millions 
have more money than the millionaires, and by 
getting the dollar from the poorer classes they had 
the million, which the millionaires never give up. 

Just before arriving at St. Timothy, we enter the 
Cedar Rapid and pass a distance of three and one- 
half miles in the extraordinary short time of seven 
minutes. By casting your eye shoreward, while 
passing an island on the left, and just before we enter 
the heaviest part of the rapid, you will discover how 
fast the boat is going. Looking to the right, you 
will see Hell's Hole and the greatest commotion in 
the river from Kingston to the Gulf. 

Leaving Cedar Rapid, which is the most picturesque 
and beautiful (in our estimation) of all, two and one- 
half miles farther along, and passing Bockey Hayes' 
shoal, which is a peculiar formation in the bed of the 
river, making navigation somewhat dangerous. In 
illustration: one day the steamer Corsican suddenly 
■lurched to the left, and evidently struck a rock; 
whereupon the captain said to the pilot, "Edward, 



lOO 



you are a little too far over to the left." Before he 
could complete the sentence the boat lurched to the 
right and struck anotlier rock; then the pilot replied, 
" Yes; and a little too far over to the right side." It 
is plain that the channel about here is at least pre- 
carious. The government engineers, however, are 
now at work removing these dangerous obstructions. 
The Napoleon hats you see in the distance, on poles 
about ten feet high, are the marks which enable the 
pilot to obtain his true bearings through the shoal. 
Turning to the right, we come in sight of the Split 
Rock Rapid, the most dangerous rapid of all. When 
we speak of danger, we don't mean to life or limb, as 
no person was ever injured on this rapid; it is danger 
to property that we refer to, as this is the only one of 
the series that has cost the company one dollar. 
They lost one steamboat here, and have had others 
upon the rocks. On the 8th of July, 1874, the steamer 
Corinthian, of the R. O. N. Co., when passing the 
Split Rock Rapid, was almost instantly enveloped by 
a terrific thunder shower, accompanied by a hurricane. 
The wind was so powerful that the boat refused to 
answer the helm, and instead of turning to the right, 
as she should, tlie wind caused her to go straight 
ahead, and we struck a rock forward about five feet 
high and passed fifteen feet aft of the wheel over the 
same, and then stopped. I was upon the right hand 
side of the boat explaining to the passengers and 
showing or pointing out to them the ledge of rock 
when she struck. Immediately four ladies caught 
hold of me (whom tliey thought was the boss life 
preserver). What a position for a nice young man. 
I was about to exclaim as my friend A. Ward did 



lOI 



when he was surrounded by 20 of Brigham Young's 
wives, "I hope your intentions are honorable." 
However, through the assistance of some friends, I 
procured life preservers for them and was released 
from my somewhat precarious position. In a space 
of an hour most of the passengers were landed by 
the aid of the ship's boats and battaus from the shore, 
and proceeded by rail to Montreal, where they arrived 
the same evening. I remained on board all night 
until a derrick was erected and two of the boats 
lashed together, and a platform built upon them, 
when I was let down by the aid of the derrick upon 
the same, and without further trouble taken to shore 
in safety. The second line of white-caps which you 
see in the distance in front, is the Split Rock, a ledge 
of rock running from shore to shore, with the 
exception of a break of about sixty feet, which is a 
natural split in the rock. Formerly there was only 
a depth of nine feet of water; it was blasted out, and 
now gives a navigable channel of thirteen and one- 
half feet. Passengers, by looking into the water on 
the right side of the boat, can see the ledge we have 
been talking about. 

One and a half miles from here to the Cascade, the 
last of this series of four, and the last but one on the 
river— the Lachine being the last. The Cascade 
differs from all the rest, being a cutting chopping sea, 
in which the boats are wrenched more than in any 
other rapid. On the right is the village of Meloche- 
ville, at the foot of the Beauhornois Canal, eleven 
and one-half miles in length, that passes around this 
line of rapid. The boats of this and all other lines 
are compelled to pass through this canal, as none of 
them could ascend this line of rapids. 



I02 



We are now thirty miles by water and twenty-four 
miles by land from Montreal. In the distance in front, 
is Mount Royal, or Montreal mountain. The park 
mountain drive, the most famous drive in the world, 
is up tlie brow of this mountain through a park. On 
the left is II Perot Island, formed by the two channels 
of the Ottawa. The one we now see comes by St. 
Anns, where Moore wrote his famous Canadian boat 
song. A resident of St. Anns, Lieutenant-Colonel 
Dowker, says that every spring the freshets of the 
Ottawa cause the water to come down into the 
St. Lawrence with such force as to cause an 
eddy to pass up the point of the island and pass 
down the navigable channel of the Ottawa, and he 
can take a pail from his house. Chateau Blanc 
(where the famous poet Moore resided while at St. 
Anns and wrote his Canadian poems), proceed down 
to the river and dip up a pail of pure clear St. Law- 
rence water. Meeting Col. Dowker last spring, he 
told me that the freshets of the Ottawa in March and 
April, 1885, were the most alarming and disastrous 
ever known. The sudden breaking up of the ice 
caused a jam. Mouses were moved from their 
foundations, cattle and sheep crushed to jelly by the 
ice and many drowned ; the ice piled moutains high_ 
The government had an agent in the vicinity 
relieving the distressed inhabitants. The heavy flow 
of ice by the freshets in the Ottawa caused a jam a 
little below Montreal this year, 1887, consequently 
flooded the city, causing much damage to life and 
property. The oldest church in the upper Province 
and old forts are to be seen here. 

On the left a portion of the Ottawa empties into 



I03 

the St. Lawrence. This is not, however, the main 
channel ; the navigable portion of the river is just the 
other side of II Perot. Note the difference between 
the color of the two waters ; they are as wide apart 
as green is from purple. The water of the Ottawa is 
of a dark brown color, caused by passing over low 
marshy, peat bed soils, and the huge forests through 
which this river passes, the leaves falling and rot- 
ting, and swept along by the freshets, doubtless dye 
the water to the peculiar color observable. The 
waters of the two rivers do not readily mix, and each 
are distinct for many miles. 

In the distance is Lake St. Louis, or Lachine 
Lake, 15 miles from the lapids to the foot of the 
lake, where we arrive at Lachine, on the left, and 
Caughnawaga on the right. The latter is the resi- 
dence of the Indian pilot, St. Jean Baptiste, who 
takes this line of boats down to the Lachine Rapids. 

About half way through the lake on the right we 
come to Nun's Island. That mound or elevation of 
ground which you see was a fort in 1812, and English 
and American warlike parties met in sanguinary 
contest around here. It commands the entrance to 
the Chateaugay River. The village of Chateaugay is 
about §ix miles back. The Nun's Island belongs to 
the Grey Nuns, of Montreal, who have a hospital for 
their own sick, and the spot is marked by a large 
cross emblematic of their order. 

Fifteen minutes from here we are in sight of 
Caughnawaga, where we take on board the Indian 
pilot, who has become of historical interest to tour- 
ists, as it_ was he who discovered the channel and 
took the first of this line down, August 19, 1840, and 



I04 

lias been in the employ of the company ever since. 
He is 75 years old, weighs 240 pounds, and stands 6 
feet high. I am sorry to say that on account of 
age, the company were forced to retire him, and his 
son-in-law will take the boats through the Lachine 
Rapids this year. Many of the passengers imagine 
he is the only pilot who can take a boat through 
the Lachine Rapids. This is not correct, for we have 
other pilots who can ; but as he is paid for this 
especial service, they resign most cheerfully in his 
favor. He has never had an accident, and the com- 
pany believe in holding to that which is good, and 
therefore "stick to the old man." He will emerge 
from shore in a small boat, accompanied by his 
two sons. They row him to to the steamers ; he 
comes on board, and the boys row him home again. 
He remains on board till the next morning, takes 
the first train for Lachine, where he is met by the 
boys, who take him home in a row boat. The Indian 
pilot's name is St. Jean Baptiste de Lisle; his Indian 
name, Ta ya ka, meaning in the U. S. language that 
"he will cross the river," but does not ; hegoesdovyn 
the rapids. He has a family of six children, three 
boys and three girls. The girls are unmarried. I 
state this for the benefit of the young men on'board, 
as the Indian pilot says he wants a "heap Yankee" 
for his girls. I am engaged to my Mary Jane, and 
they can't have me. 

A description of Caughnavvaga would not be 
amiss. Note the line of palatial residences along the 
bank beyond the church, the windows and doors 
kicked out to give them light and air, the palace gar- 
dens in the front part of the back end of the house, 



105 

The laundry of Caughnawaga is usually hung on the 
fence ; it is not wash day to-day, as you can perceive. 
The bath-house is the whole water-front, but it is 
seldom used. The water-works is that barrel on the 
shore. The fair damsel waving her lily white liand is 
Mary Jane, my best girl. She comes out every day 
to welcome me, as she thinks I am on board. You 
can get her eye and have a flirtation, the same as I 
have had for years, and not make me jealous. That 
large brick structure is the centennial building, built 
during the centennial year by the celebrated Indian 
Chief, White Kicker. I think they used him to kick 
the windows and doors out of the palatial residences 
previously spoken of. 

Coughnawaga, signifying " Praying Indian " (my 
friend Ben Butler says they spell it with an e), is 
well laid out for an Indian village, with a popula- 
tion of 900, all Indians ; no whites can live here. 

The finest crops raised in this section of the coun- 
try are raised just below Caughnawaga. They raise 
them with a derrick. It is a blasted crop, however, 
and of no use until it is. This notable quarry is where 
most of the stone comes from for the construction 
of the locks in the new Lachine canal — the entrance 
of which is at Lachine, the village just passed at the 
foot of the lake on the left. 

THE VILLAGE OF LACHINE 

is a favorite resort for Montrealers in summer. The 
inhabitants number about 2,000, but it is frequently 
augmented in the season to 9,000 or 10,000. Note 
the large buildings, which are the church. Villa de 



io6 

Marie Convent, the School and University for the 
education of priests. 

Our pilot being on board, he will now show his 
Injin-uity in piloting a boat down the Lachine 
Rapids. Before reaching the rapids, the tourists can 
see the aqueduct that supplies the city of Montreal 
with water. 

THE LACHINE RAPIDS 

differ from all the rest ; it is simply an intricate 
channel through rock. Take your position upon either 
side of the boat and you will know when we come to 
the most important point, as the boat will be headed 
direct for a little island, which is nothing more nor 
less than a few loads of dirt upon a huge ledge of 
rock. Keep your eye upon the bow of the boat and 
you will be lead to exclaim, why, we are going to 
strike the island ; and if you are a betting person or 
a truthful one, you would almost swear we could not 
help but strike ; but when within less than ten feet, 
we make a very sudden turn to the right, with a 
grand pitch of lurch, in which you will think the 
boat drops ten feet. We pass alongside of a 
ledge of rocks for about half a mile, to see which 
you must be upon the right hand side of the boat ; at 
the end of this ledge of rock we have a perfect 
miniature Niagara, a little water-fall for a cent. Do 
not allow the lurching of the boat from side to side, 
to cause you any uneasiness, as there is no danger, 
because a side wheel boat has guards from four to 
ten feet projecting over on each side from the hull, 
60 to 90 feet long, so that when that fiat surface 
strikes the water by lurching, that is as far as she 



107 

can go, therefore, will always righten herself 
immediately. I have had a great deal of sport in 
this way. When the boat had lurched over as far as 
she could, I would immediately exclaim: "Oh! I 
am on the wrong side," and proceed to the high 
side, when the boat would immediately righten up 
and the passengers would think I did it, but she 
would have rightened without my aid. Yet I have 
heard some very strong-minded women, after seeing 
the effect of my moving to the high side of the boat, 
exclaim: "Put that big man off; he has too much 
weight to be upon a boat in the rapids." This is the 
last rapid built on th.e St. Lawrence, you can have it 
the best one if you like and I will not quarrel with 
you for it. All I ask you to do is to stop at the 
hotels who advertise in my book and tell them I was 
the cause, and if they do not treat you well I will 
proceed to sit down upon them, not mentally, but 
physically, and they will never have occasion to 
treat any one else badly. Passing the foot of the 
rapids, a first view of Montreal on the left, and on the 
right is the village of La Prairie. The first mountain 
on the left is Mount Bruno; second, Bellisle ; the 
third, St. Pie. The next and last sensation (3n the 
trip is passing under 

VICTORIA BRIDGE, 

the largest and longest tubular bridge in the world, 
was built b)^ Mr. Stephenson in i860 for the Grand 
Trunk Railroad, by which it is owned and controlled. 
It is a mile and three quarters of iron, two miles and 
a quarter with its approaches from shore. It is 
wholly of iron, top, bottom and sides — an iron tun- 



\o8 

tiel or box, as It were. There are twenty-four abut- 
ments, built wedge shaped (to crush the immense ice 
fields that pass through this section, which, previous 
to the building of the bridge, did immense damage 
to Montreal during the spring freshets. There are 
no such things as freshets on the St. Lawence, the 
Ottawa flowing in some miles above causing such 
disasters), upon which rest the sections of iron. 
These spans are from 250 to 360 feet long each, and 
the center span is about 60 feet high. The bridge 
tubes are 16 x 22 feet. It contains no wagon road 
or foot path, and is used by the G. T. R. and its con- 
necting lines. The cost of this immense work was 
$6,250,000, about one half of which amount went to 
fatten the contractors. I was not one of them. I 
mention this on account of my size, and for fear 
some one might think I was wealthy. The bridge is 
constructed of sheets of iron with a two-inch edge 
turned up and riveted to each other. It is fastened 
to the center, loose on both ends on rollers, and is 
provided with a sliding track, so that there is no 
danger by expansion or contraction to passing trains 
It expands and contracts from three and one-half to 
seven inches. The bridge is kept in thorough repair 
and well painted. The small holes, or peforations 
in the sides of the bridge, were original!}' intended to 
convey the smoke out, but found inadequate for that 
purpose; therefore they caused to be erected aline of 
flues the whole length. Now if any smoke remains 
it is carried out in a hand basket. The two movable 
scaffolds you see are used by the workmen in repair- 
ing and painting. It is not a draw bridge, and as we 
pass under the center span and not over it, you need 



10() 

not renU)vo your Iial if yon riMiiain on the (lcf;k. 
Aflcr passing under Llio bridge you will liav(^ a niag- 
niliccnt view of 

MONTREAL HARBOR. 

'I'hc |)oiiits of interest in llic liarbor will all be 
described to you as we pass over Si. Lambert's shoal, 
a very dangerous passage, previous to landing at tFie 
(juebec; boat, where wc transfer such passengers as 
desire to visit (juel)cc. Tfic island you see front on 
the right is St Helen's Isle, used by the citizens of 
Montreal for pleasure, picnic parlies, etc. A ferry 
plies between the city and island every half hour, 
from morning until 7 i*. m. On Sunday from 3,000 
to 20,000 persons visit tlie island, mostly French 
Canadians, three-fifths of whom comprise the popu- 
lation of Montreal. In the distant front on the left 
is the oldest church in Montreal; to the left of that, 
the largest building with the dome, is the IJonseccour 
Market and old City Hall. The new City Hall is 
that large building in the rear with the dome in the 
center and f(jur columns — one in each corner. 
Across the road to the Icfi, that long building is the 
Court House. At the head of Jacques Cartier Square 
is a magnificent cohunn erected to the memory of 
Admiral J>ord Nelson. At the fo(;t of the scpiare 
lies a steamer of the Richelieu & Ontari(j Navigation 
Company. There are two steamers on this line, 
notably the Montreal and Ouebec. This company 
owns twenty-one side-wheel boats. The CJuebec line 
has the largest boats that float the St. Lawrence 
River; they will compare favorably with the boats of 
the Sounder the Hudson River — triple-decked palace 



no 

boats, built of Bessemer steel; one has a capacity of 
360 state rooms — the other 280. The distance to 
Quebec is 180 miles, and the fare on this line is only 
$2.50 — the cheapest on the continent. Beyond, on 
the left, the two massive towers you see belong to 
the French church of Notre Dame. It is not a 
Cathedral, but simply a parish church. (The Cathe- 
dral is on Dominion Square, in process of erection, 
and when complete, will be one-half the size of St. 
Peter's at Rome). It is the largest on the continent, 
and has contained within its walls, front porch and 
stairways, on the 24th of June last (St. John's Day), 
twenty-two thousand souls. Beyond is the Custom 
House, with the clock in the tower, and still further 
up the examining warehouse of the Custom House, 
as well as the office, docks and steamers of the Allen 
line. The first stop is at Quebec boat; passengers for 
Montreal remain on deck, as this line is compelled to 
enter the first lock in the Lachine Canal; the gates 
close and the water is allowed to enter, which raises 
the boat to the level of the lock, when the passengers 
are allowed to depart. Montreal is the commercial 
metropolis of the Dominion, with a population of 
150,000, three-fifths of which are French Canadians. 
The docks, piers, wharves, etc., of Montreal are the 
finest on the continent. It is the second city of com- 
mercial importance. New York being first. Six 
steamship companies leave here weekly for Europe 
during the summer season, and a large amount of 
business must of necessity be done, as its channel is 
closed during five months of the winter. The water 
front is all lighted with the electric light, so that 
work is carried on during the summer months night 



Ill 

and day. On top of the revetment wall was built 
last season a dyke or strong barricade ten feet high; 
it serves as a check to the water during the spring 
freshets to prevent the overflowing and damage of 
the sudden rise of previous years. Having selected 
your hotel and arrived at the same, our next duty 
will be to see the sights of 

MONTREAL. 

It is situated at the head of navigation for ocean 
vessels, 540 miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on 
the Island of Montreal, which lies between the two 
great rivers of the North, the St. Lawrence and the 
Ottawa. The island is about 32 miles in length, 
and at its widest some ten in breadth; it is so fertile 
as to be called the garden of the Province. The 
surface of the land is level, with the exception of the 
eminence of Mount Royal, which rises 550 feet above 
the river level. Mount Royal gives the name to the 
city which lies at its base. The settlement of the 
town was originally determined by the first explorer, 
Jacques Cartier, in 1535, at which time an Indian 
village, Hochelaga, occupied the spot. The perma- 
nent founding of the place, however, did not occur 
until 1642, and in one hundred years of growth there- 
after it gathered a population of 4,000, It was under 
French rule until 1760, when it passed into the hands 
of the British. In 1832 the cholera raged in Montreal 
with great violence, carrying off 1,843 inhabitants in 
a population of about 36,000. In April, 1849, a 
political mob burnt the Parliament buildings, which 
"were erected on McGill street, and the seat of Gov- 
ernment was, in consequence, transferred to Quebec, 



112 

thence to Toronto, and finally to Ottawa, where it 
remains. In July, 1852, a destructive fire laid waste 
a large portion of the city, burning no houses and 
consuming property valued at |i, 400, 000. Notwith- 
standing these reverses, the city recovered, and to-day 
numbers a population of 150,000. Years of industry 
and enterprise have produced growth and improve- 
ment in Montreal, such as but few American cities 
can boast of, and perhaps one — Chicago — has exceeded. 
At the beginning of the present century, vessels of 
more than 300 tons could not ascend to Montreal, 
and its foreign trade was carried on by brigs and 
barges. Now ocean steamships of over 4 000 tons, 
the floating palaces of the Richelieu & Ontario 
Navigation Company, and ships of from 700 to 4,000 
tons from all parts of the world, occupy the wharves 
of the harbor, which are not equaled on this continent 
in point of substantial construction, convenience and 
cleanliness. The old part of Montreal, near the 
river, has narrow incommodious streets; but the new 
growth of the city toward Mount Royal has been 
liberally laid out, with wide and cheerful thorough- 
fares. The architecture here is very fine; the material 
chiefly used is a zinc-colored lime-stone, extensively 
quarried three miles from the city. The public 
buildings, banks and principal warehouses are solid 
and handsome enough to adorn a European capital. 
The great wealth of the Roman Catholic Church has 
enabled it to erect many magnificent churches, hos- 
pitals and convents, always in a very massive and 
enduring style. Other denominations seem to have 
been excited by emulation, and vie with each other 
in the beauty and elegance of their places of worship. 



'13 

Among the evidences of the French origin of the city 
are to be noticed a few curious old buildings to be 
found lingering here and there about Jacques Cartier 
Square, or occupying sites on the eastern part of the 
river front. The old houses are built somewhat like 
fortifications, and have heavily vaulted cellars,wherein 
treasure might be stored or a defense made against 
hostile foes, in the days when Indians and Whites 
French and British were fighting and plundering 
each other. The French Canadians in the city con- 
tinue still to be a little more than half the population, 
and, although their language here has not been 
unaffected by the constant intercourse with English- 
speaking people, it is not, as commonly supposed, a 
patois, but such French as was spoken by the polite 
and educated in France, when the emigrants who first 
settled Canada left the' shore of their mother-land. 
The naming of many of the streets of Montreal after 
saints and holy things, reminds one that its founders 
were not exiles nor adventurers, but enthusiastic 
missionaries. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 

The Post Office is built on St. James street, the 
chief thoroughfare of this city, opposite the new St, 
Lawrence Hall. The reason I use the word new may 
be asked. Well, the hotel has been newly refitted, 
the corner building purchased, one hundred elegant 
and commodious rooms added, with baths and 
closets, electric bells and elevators, ladies' reception 
room, new and elegantly furnished suits of rooms 
added this year. The old proprietor, Mr. Hogan, 
pronounced by connoisseurs to be the best landlord 



114 

in the n.Hninion. lias assiiinod tlic [MO[Miotoiship and 
has associated with him as luana^xM', Mr. Samuel 
Mv>ntiioniorv, the best choic'o tliat couKi be made, as 
lie is ai\ American from the Paoilio sK^pe, where they 
know how to Ivcep a hotel. 1 theret"ore oheerfiilly 
reconimend von to stop at the new St. l.awrenc^e 
Hall during vour stav in Montreal. Startini;" troni 
tliere, it being- the center, every point of interest is 
within fifteen minutes' walk of this liotel. The first 
buildino* to the left is the new Post Otfioe, recently 
finished, with a richly decorated exterior, and every 
internal impivnement which modern in^eniiitv lias 
devised. Adjoining- it is the Hank of Montreal, in 
the Corinthian style of architecture, with a sculpture 
on the pediment depicting native Indians, a sailor 
and settler with the emblems of the arts and trade. 
The corporation occupying- this noble building is the 
richest one of the kind in America. It has branches 
in every town of importance in the l^ominion, and 
has otVices in New York, Chicago and London. It 
issues letters of credit on all parts of the world. Its 
capital and reserve fund amount to ^i 8,000,000. 
Adjoining is the Imperial I- ire Insurance Co.'s. new 
building. Crossing the street on the left hand 
corner, in process of erection, is the commercial 
building, of the New York Life Insurance Com- 
pany. Adjoining- are other banks, having their 
ofiices on Place d'Arnis, — the Jacques Cartien 
Ontario, Ouebec and National Hanks. <.^n the 
south side of the square, the great parisli church 
of Notre Dame looms up. The dimensions of this 
vast Norman edifice are ^^5 Icet in length and 134 
in width. Us ivnvers are ajo feet hioh : the western 



(Hio contains the hirc^est bell in Aincrie:\, "Gross 
Bourdon," in weight 29,400 pounds. The sealing 
capacity of the (diiirch is 10,000. It has recently 
been decorated in deep colors and i;,old, after the 
manner of the St. Chapclle at Paris. An elevator 
was aiided last year, making the lower easy of access 
to visitors. Suspended over the western gallery, and 
near the grand alter, is an immense wooden crucifix. 
This was brought from Francx^ two centuries ago, 
and first set up in the churc^h built on the ground 
now Place d'Arms. Adjoining Notre l^ame is the 
venerable Seminary of St. Sulpice, with its old gate- 
way, courtyard and clock. The gentlemen of this 
seminary originally held valuable rights ailecting 
the entire island of Montreal ; much of the land yet 
remains in their hands. With the wealth thus 
brought to their coffers, they have liberally estab- 
lished and conducted many institutions of charity 
and education scattered throughout the city. We 
are now on Notre Dame street, tlie chief retail street 
in Montreal. Turning eastward a few feet from 
Notre Dame c^hurch, on the right is R. Sharpley & 
Sons, which will repay a visit ; a cordial invitation is 
. extended and I am sure it will be time well spent if 
you call. A little above on the left, 1671, J. & E. 
McEntyre, merchant tailors. They make all my 
clothes, therefore if they can fit me, further com- 
ments are unnecessary. A little above is Lanthier & 
Co. Let us go on we shall soon arrive at the Court 
Mouse, a fine Grecian building of simple and mas- 
sive appearance. A few steps further on the right 
brings us to Nelson's monument, setting forth in 
bas-relief the various victories wliich the ffreat liaval 



m 



ii6 

hero won without the loss of a single British ship. 
This monument is in Jacques Cartier square, at the 
foot of which is the wharf of Quebec steamers. 

Keeping on Notre Dame street, directly beside the 
monument, we find opposite to each other two build- 
ings which form a sharp contrast. The one on the 
left is the new City Hall, a lofty and ornate speci- 
men of French architecture ; facing it is the "old 
chateau," a structure probably thought very fine a 
century ago, when Benjamin Franklin set up in it 
the first printing press ever used in the city. Now 
the old place is a Normal school, and the dis- 
coveries of the illustrious American are explained 
there, and let us hope his witty sayings repeated and 
acted upon. We can now take our way to the river side, 
and a block from Jacques Cartier Square shall find 
Bonsecours Market, a vast substantial Doric struc- 
ture. Here, if it be market day, we may see a little 
of the French Canadian peasantry, clad in their home- 
spun, and bargaining about their fowls, or eggs, or 
butter, with many queer words and phrases now almost 
forgotten in the Normandy, whence they were first 
brought. Next to the market is Bonsecours Church, 
a rough-cast building with a high pitched roof and 
with a breadth of a few feet adjoining it, occupied by 
cobblers and cake shops. This church is the oldest 
Roman Catholic one in the city ; its entrance is at 
the farther side ; rarely is it unoccupied by some 
worshippers from the adjacent market, who bring 
in, without ceremony, their baskets and bundles. 
Suspended over the altar is a model of a ship in bright 
tin, in which usually burning tapers are placed. 
Returning, on the water-front, we note the ships and 



117 

steamers from Liverpool, Glasgow, London, Havre, 
Rotterdam and other ports ; and on the right succes- 
sively pass the Custom House, a triangular building, 
with a clock tower ; the office of the Allen Line, also 
having a clock, and the fine building of the Harbor 
Commissioners. Next to it is a curious looking 
pile, with external hoist-ways from top to bottom ; 
this is the Customs Examining -Warehouse. Before 
we leave this vicinity, we shall glance backward at 
the street from Allen's office to the Custom House. 

Taking a short journey, still upon the river front, 
we come to the great works of stone masonry, which 
give to Montreal an enlarged canal to Lachine, so 
that vessels of much greater tonnage than the ones 
at present. used may be employed in the grain trade. 
This enterprise is one of a series of canal improve- 
ments by which Canada strives to retain and increase 
its business as a highway for the shipment of western 
produce to the sea-board. 

Retracing our steps, we take the wide street running 
up from the city, McGill, and mark the fine ware- 
houses that adorn it. Arriving at Notre Dame street, 
a little above, on the left, John Murphy & Co., who 
invite you to inspect their stock, styles and prices. 
Adjoining is Mr. S. Carsley, who occupies the six 
or seven stores in succession. Something should be 
said here relative to Mr. Carsley's establishment, 
which is admitted to be the finest as well as the 
largest in Canada. In doing so I shall not speak of 
the man but of the sterling features adopted as a 
guide in the past, which gave him prosperity and 
success. To secure the finest and best goods, fresh 
from the factories or trade-centers, this establishment 



has its principal house in L-ondon, Eng., as well as a 
, ,, >. resident buyer there. It also selects four of the best 
['X.p judges of goods required for the home market, who 
:V go to the trade-centers of Europe two or three times 
i'/;' ;;/ each year with "carte blanche" to make any pur- 
j ,;,':,('' chases required. The imported as well as the domestic 
^j^^i;|v goods are all marked in plain figures, so that each 
y^j purchaser may know-the price; therefore a child can 
I, ', ■' buy as well as a grown person. I cheerfully request 
^ ;;|f'' you to visit this model establishment and inspect the 
styles, goods and prices, and if you do not make a 
; ■' purchase it will be because you will receive so much 
: for your money that you will be afraid you cannot 
'; carry it home. Retracing our steps back to McGill 
; street, we turn to the right, and immediately in front, 
; just one block, is Victoria Square, which contains a 
i,^l| statue of the Queen, by Marshall Wood. Corner St. 
'■ t!ii\ James street, opposite, on the left, is the Albert 
; j Building. Turning to the right we enter St. James 
, , street. The first building of note on the right is the 
''^M:{ Ottawa Buildings; on the left is J. J. Milloy, the 
v;:' tailor, where tailor-made suits for ladies are a 
'■In'^] specialty. A little further on the riQ-ht is G. W. Clark, 
• . The Souvenir Palace, where, if you enter, the sight of 
, , .^ such rare curiosities and splendid souvenirs will cause 
y ;^'' you to wonder how you got in without a ticket; and 
''■;')■ a little above is Drysdale & Co., where cheap English 
reprints of all the popular American authors may be 
had. This is the largest bookstore in Canada and the 
most cheerful, as they have just added a waiting 
parlor, where you can meet a friend and visit "Alex- 
ander s " if you desire; it is a little above, on the left, 
where is kept a first-class restaurant, confections, 



119 

"bon-bons," etc., and you can be served with the best 
the market affords. On our way to the Post Office, 
from whence we started, at the corner of St. Peter 
street is the Mechanics' Institute. This building con- 
tains agood library, the admission fee to which is only 
nominal, and a very good reading-room, having on its 
tables the principal dailies of America, the London 
Times, the Glasgow Herald, the Dublin Warder, the 
Edinburgh Scotsman, and all the weeklies, monthlies 
and quarterlies of both England and the United States. 
Strangers can have free access to this reading-room, 
for the period of two weeks, by applying to Mr. 
Hogan, the proprietor of the new St. Lawrence Hall. 

Opposite to the Mechanics' Institute is the Merchants 
Bank, built in modern Italian style, with polished 
granite columns at the entrance; the interior of this 
bank should be seen; the main office is carried up two 
stories in height and is beautifully frescoed. Diagon- 
ally across the street is Molson's Bank, also of Italian 
design, and richly decorated. We are now nearly at 
the hotel again, where we may conclude for the present 
our inspection of the city. 

Resuming our sight-seeing, we shall now leave 
behind us the business streets, and take our way to 
the upper part of Montreal. Our suggestion is, to 
take St. James street to the first crossing on the right 
as you leave the hotel, St. Peter street. After two 
blocks this street changes its name to Bleury street 
(when, if you find you are footsore, you can turn to 
the left to the end of the block, on Craig street, 
No. 1722, where is located the celebrated Surgeon 
Chiropodist, Prof. Harris, who will attend to any 
trouble of the feet, that will be sure to make your 



I20 



walk a pleasant one, provided you are, like me, suffer- 
ing from corns, bunions or in-growing nails). At 
No. 17 Bleury street, we may enter Notman's studio, 
a large handsome building entirely devoted to photo- 
graphic art. Here we may spend half an hour very 
pleasantly in looKing over views of Canadian scenery, 
and portraits taken singly or skillfully grouped, rep- 
resenting the sports and pastimes of our winter. The 
chief of these pictures is that which shows a carnival 
held at the Victoria Skating Rink eight years ago, 
when H. R. H. Prince Arthur was present. This 
photographic marvel, with others now surrounding it 
on the walls of Mr. Notman, attracted great attention 
and admiration at the Centennial Exhibition. Mr. 
Notman was photographer to the Exhibition and 
received its highest awards. 

Continuing on Bleury street, we soon reach, on the 
left, the Church of the Jesu, with St. Mary's College 
adjoining it, conducted by the Jesuit Fathers. This 
church is modeled after one of the same name at 
Rome, where the remains of Loyola are entombed. 
The style of architecture is the round Roman arch. 
The interior is one of the most beautiful among 
American churches. Over the high altar is a fresco 
of the crucifixion. In the southern transept the suf- 
ferings of the first Canadian martyr, burnt by savages, 
are depicted. Leaving the elegant house of prayer, 
we shall continue on Bleury street until we come to 
St. Catherine street. A few steps brings us to the 
Nazareth Asylum for the Blind, attached to which 
(No. 1091) is a most ornate chapel, decorated in such 
a lovely manner as to lead one to suppose that it was 
done to encourage the suffering inmates of the asylum 
to see. 



121 



Next building on the side of the street (No. 1077) 
is the Roman Catholic Commercial Academy, a lordly 
monument of wealth and munificence, containing all 
the modern appliances for the practical training of 
youth, and presided over by an able staff of professors. 
If we keep going eastward on St. Catherine street, we 
pass on St. Dennis street, the immense parish church 
of St. James, with the tallest spire in the city. Near 
by is the new church which is dedicated to Notre 
Dame De Lourdes; water and relics from her shrine 
at Lourdes in France, are for sale in the basement. 
Adjoining the church are its conventual buildings. 

Returning on St. Catherine street, we soon come 
to Christ Church Cathedral (Church of England), 
unquestionably the most beautiful specimen of Gothic 
architecture in Canada. It is of a cruciform design; 
its extreme width is 100 feet. The spire, which is 
entirely of stone, rises to the height of 224 feet. The 
materials of construction are Montreal limestone 
and stone from Caen, in Normandy, which latter, by 
exposure to the weather, has changed from almost 
pure whiteness to a yellow tint. On the grounds of 
the Cathedral are erected the residences of the bishop 
and his assistants, the Synod Hall, and also a fine 
monument to Bishop Fulford,the first Metropolitan of 
Canada. The street runnins^ on the farther side of 
the Cathedral, is University Street, and No. 82, one 
block distant, is the Natural History Museum, con- 
taining a good Canadian collection. University street 
leads us down to Dorchester street, on the corner of 
which is the St. James Club House. On the opposite 
corner is the Free Fraser Library Building. Taking 
Dorchester street eastward, we pass on the left St, 



122 



Paul's Church (Presbyterian). On the same side we 
soon have a view of the vast proportions of the new 
St. Peter's Roman Catholic Cathedral. 

Across the square on which St. Peter's is building, 
we notice a beautiful church, St. George's (Church of 
England), and adjoining it is its Sunday-school, the 
largest and best conducted in Canada. On Dorches- 
ter street, fronting Dominion square on Peel street, 
is the Windsor Hotel. A little below on Windsor 
street is the new Depot of the Canada Pacific R. R., the 
largest and grandest in Canada. Next beyond on 
Dorchester street is the Victoria Skating Rink, where 
immense carnivals are held in the winter — the grand- 
est in the world. In the summer the spacious edifice 
is used for concerts, walking matches, public gather- 
ings, meetings, etc. Two blocks distant is the Found- 
ling Hospital of the Gray Nun, a visit to which is thus 
described: A long procession of the nuns marched 
slowly into the chapel and knelt in prayer. Each 
nun had a crucifix and a string of beads attached, 
and whatever may have been the case with their 
thoughts, their eyes never wandered, notwithstanding 
strangers were gazing at them. Some were young 
and pretty, others old and plain, but the sacred 
character of their labor of love invested them all 
with beauty. We said the eyes of none wandered. 
Perhaps we ought to confess that the quick, sharp 
glance of one, apparently younger than the others, 
stared at us for a moment; but it was only curiosity — 
womanly curiosity — and what women has not the 
curiosity to look at me. Yet that moment was fruit- 
ful of thought, and as we saw the sad, dark-eyed 
beauty rise in her place and mechanically follow her 



more staid sisters, our mind went back to the days 
of chivalry, when gallant knights rode with lance at 
rest, or wielded the heavy battle axe in heroic deeds 
that they might win recognition from the proud 
ladies who looked down upon them. And as we 
thought, it seemed that the most gallant deeds which 
men of this nineteenth century might do, would be to 
rescue young and pretty nuns — who wanted to be 
rescued — from the silence and sadness of the nun- 
nery. Again on our way, we are arrested by an 
immense structure even larger than the institution 
just passed; it is the Montreal College, which edu- 
cates ecclesiastics, and also day pupils, and is under 
the care of the Sulpician fathers. The two Martello 
towers in front of the college are relics of the times 
when incessant strife raged between the settlers and 
the Indians. Sherbrooke street is adorned with the 
private residences of which the citizens of Montreal 
are proud, and in your drive around the town, pre- 
vious to or after returning from your Park Mountain 
drive, it will repay one to drive through Sherbrooke, 
Dennis and Dorchester streets. The McGill College, 
University and spacious grounds are the next points. 

As we pass along Sherbrooke street, in the distance 
we observe, as we glance up St. Famille street, the 
enormous Hotel Dieu, with a large, bright dome, a 
free hospital for all, under Roman Catholic direc- 
tion. 

Returning to the Post Office, preferably by Beaver 
Hall Hill, we shall not fail to be struck by the num- 
ber of handsome churches erected there together. 
On the right is the Unitarian church; on the left, 
successively a Presbyterian, Baptist, and Jewish 



124 

synagogue. Near by, on Craig street, is a towered 
building occupied by the Young Men's Christian 
Association. 

We are soon at the new St. Lawrence Hall, and 
before mentioning the drive that may be taken out- 
side the city, it may be well to call attention to a few 
places near at hand a business man or student may 
be interested in visiting: The Corn Exchange, foot of 
St. John street, the Merchants' Exchange, St. Sacra- 
ment street, the office of the Telegraph Co., and the 
Open Stock Exchange, St. Francis Xavier street. 
Near the beginning of St. James street, on St. 
Gabriel street, is the Geological Museum, open daily 
from lo to 4, containing an admirable collection of 
North American minerals, and many interesting fos- 
sils. Here may be seen what many geologists regard 
as the most primitive record of life, the Eoxoon 
Cana^dense, ^rst noticed at Perth, Ontario, by a Mr. 
Wilson. From the fact that the oldest fossil bearing 
stratum, the Laurentian, is the backbone, geograph- 
ically of Canada, and because of the great variety of 
rocks found in the immediate vicinity of Montreal, 
this museum is particularly attractive to a lover of 
science. An effort is on foot to deprive the city of 
this collection, and, for the sake of centralization, 
remove it to Ottawa. I offer this as an apology in 
case it should be removed. 

DRIVES. 

As I have said two or three times, by far the most 
pleasant drive is up the brow of Mount Royal, called 
the Park Mountain drive. There are, presumably, 
two roads; the shorter returns by McTavish street, 



125 

the other by Bleury. The park was laid out by Mr. 
Olmstead, the designer of Central Park, New York, 
whose achievements there were recognized by a statue 
adorning one of the entrances. The river view from 
Mount Royal is delightful, and must be seen to be 
appreciated. I dare not attempt to describe it. A 
suggestion of how to get a hundred pictures of every 
conceivable shape or form of landscape views, con- 
taining mountain, plain, river, lake, hillside, valley 
etc., etc., is to close the eye, place the hands on each 
end of the forehead, and every time the carriage moves 
a hundred feet open the eyes, and you have an entire 
new picture. Keep this up until you have had an 
elegant sufficiency of view. The next drive is around 
the mountain, and was the best until the completion 
of the Park Mountain drive; it is pleasant and 
attractive, when it includes a drive to the Catholic and 
Protestant cemeteries, giving a view of the monuments 
and tombs. The drive to Lachine is next, and is of 
interest. The drive to Longue Point, along the St. 
Lawrence in the opposite direction to the last, gives 
us an entirely different kind of scenery. It takes us 
through the village of Hochelaga, the terminus of the 
new railroad, the Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa and 
Occidental, which runs along the north shore of the 
St. Lawrence, and develops tracts of country as yet 
unbenefiteci by the iron horse. About a mile from the 
depot is the beautiful convent of the Sisters of the 
Holy Names of Jesus and Mary. Many young ladies 
from the United States have been educated at this 
convent. The next noteworthy building is the Lunatic 
Asylum. This immense house, containing nearly 300 
maniacs, idiots and imbeciles, is controlled by the 



126 

Sisters of Providence; these ladies, with the exception 
of six guardians for desperate characters, and a phy- 
sician, have sole charge. They find no trouble in the 
care of the numerous inmates, and by their kindness 
and tact restore mental balance, in all the cases where 
cure is possible, in a tithe the time it used to take in 
the old days, when the insane were treated with 
harshness and cruelty. On our way to Longue 
Point, the villages of Longueuil, Boucherville and 
Varennes lie on the opposite bank of the river. The 
drive to the Back River is an attractive one, and 
with citizens the most attractive of all; the beautiful 
convent of the Sacred Heart is situated here, and its 
grounds, finely laid out, lead directly to the water's 
edge. The bridge which spans the river at this place 
— a branch of the Ottawa — affords one of the charac- 
teristic sights of Canada, the piloting of a raft through 
a tortuous channel. The size of an ordinary raft, its 
great value, from $100,000 to f 300,000, the excitement 
of the captain and his French and Indian crew, with 
the constant perils threatening the whole structure, 
all conjoin to make up a scene to be dwelt upon and 
long remembered. Thus hoping the same will be 
said of your visit to Montreal, I shall advise all to 
visit 

QUEBEC. 

Tourists can either take the Grand Trunk, the 
North Shore, or the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation 
Co. 's line of steamers. Tickets can be procured of 
the Company's agent opposite the new St. Lawrence 
Hall building, where staterooms, etc., may be secured. 
I assume that the river is the route selected, and that 
the reader is fairly on his way to that ancient city and 



127 

former capital. Passing a group of islands below 
Montreal and the mouth of the Ottawa River, we 
soon arrive at 

SOREL, 

forty-five miles below — the first landing made by the 
steamer. It was built upon the site of a fort built in 
i755> by M. De Tracy, and was for many years the 
summer residence of many successive Governors of 
Canada. Five miles below, the broad expanse of the 
river is called 

LAKE ST. PETER, 

which is about nine miles wide. The St. Francis 
River enters here. Large rafts are observed here 
slowly floating to the great mart of Quebec. 

THREE RIVERS 

is situated at the confluence of the Rivers St. Maurice 
and St. Lawrence, ninety miles below Montreal, and 
the same distance above Quebec. It is one of the 
oldest settled towns in Canada, having been founded 
in 1618. It is well laid out aind contains many good 
buildings, among which are the Court House, the 
Jail, the Roman Catholic Church, the Ursuline Con- 
vent, the English and Wesleyan 'Churches. The 
population of Three Rivers is about 9,200. 

BASTICAN 

is situated on the north shore of the river, one hun- 
dred and seventeen miles below Montreal. It is the 
last place the steamers stop before reaching Quebec. 
It is a place of little importance. 

In passing down the St. Lawrence from Montreal, 



128 

the country upon its banks presents a sameness in its 
general scenery, until we approach the vicinity of 
Quebec. The villages and hamlets are decidedly 
French in character, generally made up of small 
buildings, the better class of which are painted white 
or whitewashed, with red roofs. Prominent in the 
distance appear the tile-covered spires of the Catholic 
Churches, which are all constructed in that unique 
style of architecture so peculiar to that church 

During your stay in Quebec stop at the St. Louis 
Hotel, and if carriages are desired the hotel will 
furnish the same. This was made necessary in order 
to stop the imposition that is practiced by outside 
parties. N. B. — Fur Department and Indian Bazaar, 
St. Louis Hotel, Quebec. Tourists are invited to visit 
the Fur Wareroom adjoining the Ladies Parlor, con- 
taining one of the largest and most valuable stocks 
of Furs in Canada at moderate prices. Ladies' sacques, 
caps and muffs, etc. J. C King, Supt. There are 
four splendid drives laid out for the visitor and 
tourist; a neat little pamphlet descriptive of the same, 
entitled, "Views of the City of Quebec," will be 
given you by asking the clerk, Mr. J.'H. Phillips, Mr. 
John Brennan, or the news agent, Mr. J. C. King, of 
the St. Louis H^tel. They are instructed not to give 
them "/r<?^," unless you say I sent you for one or 
show them this notice. 

CITY OF QUEBEC. 

Quebec, by its historic fame and its unequaled 
scenery, is no ordinary or commonplace city, for 
though, like other large communities, it carries on 
trade, commerce and manufactures; cultivates art, 



129 

science and literature; abounds in charities, and pro- 
fesses special regard to the amenities of social life; 
it claims particular attention as being a strikingly- 
unique old place, the stronghold of Canada, and, in 
fact, the Key of the Province. Viewed from any of 
its approaches, it impresses the stranger with the 
conviction of strength and permanency. The reader of 
American history, on entering its gates or wandering 
over its squares, ramparts and battle-fields, puts him- 
self at once in communion with the illustrious dead. 
The achievements of daring mariners, the labors of 
self-sacrificing Missionaries of the Cross, and the 
conflicts of military heroes, who bled and died in the 
assault and defence of its walls, are here re-read with 
ten-fold interest. Then the lover of nature in her 
grandest and most rugged, as in her gentler and most 
smiling forms, will find in and around it an affluence 
of sublime and beautiful objects. The man of science, 
too, may be equally gratified, for here the great forces 
of nature and secret alchemy may be studied with 
advantage. Quebec can never be a tame or insipid 
place, and with moderate opportunities for advance- 
ment, it must become one of the greatest cities of the 
New World in respect to learning, art, commerce and 
manufactures. 

The city of Quebec was founded by Samuel de 
Champlain, in 1608. In 1622 the population was 
reduced to fifty souls. 

In June, 1759, the English army under General 
Wolfe landed upon the island of Orleans. On the 
i2th of September took place the celebrated battle of 
the Plains of Abraham, which resulted in the death 
of Wolfe and the defeat of the French army. A 



force of 5,000 English troops, under General Murray, 
were left to garrison the fort. The city is very inter- 
esting to a stranger ; it is the only walled city in 
North America. 

Cape Diamond, upon which the citadel stands, is 
three hundred and forty-five feet in height, and 
derives its name from the quanity of crystal mixed 
with the granite below its surface. The fortress 
includes the whole space on the Cape. 

Above the spot where General Montgomery was 
killed, is now the inclined plane, running to the top 
of the bank; it is five hundred feet long, and is used 
by the Government to convey stores and other arti- 
cles of great weight to the fortress. 

THE CITADEL 

will, perhaps, prove the point of greatest interest to 
many, from the historical associations connected 
therewith, and from the fact that it is considered an 
impregnable fortress. It covers an enclosed area of 
forty acres, and is some three hundred and forty feet 
above the river level. The zigzag passages through 
which you enter the fortress, between high and mas- 
sive granite walls, is swept at every turn by formid- 
able batteries of heavy guns. On the forbidding 
river walls and at each angle of possible commanding 
point, guns of heavy calibre sweep every avenue of 
approach by the river. Ditches, breast-works and 
frowning batteries command the approaches by land 
from the famed "Plains of Abraham." The pre- 
cipitous bluffs, rising almost perpendicularly from 
the river three hundred and forty feet, present a 
natural barrier which may be swept with murderous 



131 

fire, and the covered ways of approach and retreat, 
the various kinds and calibre of guns, mortars, how- 
itzers and munitions of war, will be viewed with 
eager interest. Among the places of note may be 
mentioned the Plains of Abraham, with its humble 
monument, marking the place where fell the illustri- 
ous Wolfe; the Governor's Garden, with its monu- 
ment to Wolfe and Montcalm ; the spot where fell 
the American general, Montgomery ; St. John's 
Gate, the only gate remaining of the five that 
originally pierced the walls of the city ; the Roman 
Catholic Cathedral, with its many fine old paintings; 
the Episcopal Cathedral; the Esplanade, from which 
is one of the finest views in the world; Houses of 
Parliament ; Spencer Wood, the residence of the 
Lieut. Governor, Laval University, &c., &c. 

The city and environs abound in drives, varying 
from five to thirty miles, in addition to being on the 
direct line of travel to the far-famed Saguenay, 
Murray Bay, Kamouraska, Gacouna, Rimouski Gaspe, 
and other noted watering places. 

Quebec can minister abundantly to the tastes of 
those who like to fish, yacht, or shoot. Yachting, in 
fact, has become of late the leading recreation in 
Quebec. You can on those mellow Saturday after- 
noons of August and September, meet the whole 
sporting and fashionable world of Upper Town on 
the Durham Terrace or Lower Town wharves, bent 
on witnessing a trial of speed or seamanship between 
the Moueiie, the Black Haivk^ the Wasp, the Shannon, 
t\iQ Bonho?n?ne Richard, and half a score of crack 
yachts, with their owners. 

Let us see what the city contains: — First, the 



1^2 



west wing, built about 1789, by Governor Haldi- 
mand, to enlarge the old chateau burnt down in Jan- 
uary, 1734 ; this mouldering pile, now used as the 
Normal School, is all that remains of the stately 
edifice of old, overhanging and facing the Cul- 
de-Sac, where the lordly Count de Frontenac held 
his quasi regal court in [691 ; next, the Laval Uni- 
versity, founded in 1854, conferring degrees under 
its royal charter; the course of study- is similar to 
that of the celebrated European University of 
Louvain; then there is the Quebec Seminary, erected 
by Bishop Laval, at Montmorency, in 1663; the 
Ursuline Convent, founded in 1836 by Madame de 
la Peltrie ; this nunnery, with the Roman Catholic 
Cathedral, which was built in 1646, contains many 
valuable paintings, which left France about 1789; the 
General Hospital, founded two centuries ago by 
Monseigneur de St. Vallier ; in 1659, it was the chief 
hospital for the wounded and the dying of the mem- 
orable battle of the 13th September; Arnold and his 
Continentals found protection against the rigors of a 
Canadian winter behind its walls in 1775-6 ; the 
Hotel Dieu Nunnery, close to Palace Gate, dating 
more than 200 years back. 

As to the views to be obtained from Durham Ter- 
race, the Glacis and the Citadel, they are unique in 
grandeur. Each street has its own familiar vista of 
the surrounding country. 

THE SHRINE AND FALLS OF STE. ANNE. 

At the distance of about twenty miles below Quebec 
is the village of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, sometimes 
called Ste. Anne du Nord, and always called La Bonne 



T33 

Ste. Anne, to whom is consecrated the parish church, 
erected about four years ago by the Pope into a 
shrine of the first order, in which is a fine painting 
by the famous artist LeBrun, Ste. Anne and the Vir- 
gin, presented by M. de Tracey, Viceroy of New 
France, in 1666, to the church, for benefits received. 
The festival day of this Saint is the 26th of July, at 
which time thousands of pilgrims proceed not only by 
steamer and carriage, but on foot, to this holy shrine; 
many walk the w^hole distance from Quebec to the 
church as a penance, or in performance of vows. 
The church is a new building, the old one having 
been found too small for the accomimodation of the 
crow^ds of pilgrims who resorted there. In it are 
placed thousand of crutches, left by those who 
departed after being cured of the lameness and other 
maladies by the Bonne Ste. Anne, w^hose praises are 
world wide, for hither congregate daily thousands 
of pilgrims from all parts to be cured of their infirm- 
ities. Deposited in the sanctuary is a holy relic, 
being a finger bone of the saint herself, on kissing 
which the devotee is immediately relieved of all 
worldly ills and misfortunes. Wonder begins and 
misbelief vanishes on gazing at the piles of crutches; 
there one beholds unmistakable evidence of the 
unlimited medicinal power of the mother of the Vir- 
gin. Daily are the proofs of this power; the stranger 
can see with his own eyes the decrepid, the halt, the 
sore, the lame, the wounded carried into the holy 
sanctuary and depart therefrom, after kissing the 
holy relic, cured and whole. Many are the scenes here 
witnessed of the despairing filled with renewed hope, 
and the feeble and faint glad again with strength and 



134 

health. Countless are the anecdotes of the hope- 
lessly blind and lame returning to their friends with 
sight and firm limbs, leaving behind them their ban- 
dages and crutches. Incredulity vanishes before 
such evidence, and the sceptic leaves the shrine of 
Ste. Anne with convictions deeply settled in his soul. 
Within three miles of the village are the Falls of 
Ste. Anne, which consists of seven cascades, one of 
which rushes through a narrow chasm, which can be 
leaped by one of strong nerves and sinews, but power- 
ful as Ste. Anne is, and devoted as she is to miracles, 
it is doubtful whether even she could save the unfor- 
tunate who misses his leap. 

The fishing above and below the Falls is very good 
for both salmon and trout, and the scenery of that 
wild description generally characteristic of the 
Laurentian ranges. 

MONTMORENCY FALLS 

are seven miles below Quebec. The road is very 
pleasant, passing through the French village of 
Beauport. Those who expect to see a second Niagara 
will be somewhat disappointed, as far as volume is 
concerned. The stream descends in silvery threads, 
over a precipice 265 feet in height, and, in connection 
with the surrounding scenery, is extremely pic- 
turesque and beautiful, but does not inspire the awe 
felt at Niagara. On June 8, 1887, with some friends 
we paid this delightful place a visit, and were enter- 
tained by the hotel proprietor, Mr. T. Bureau, in 
royal style, which, after the tramp over all the 
grounds and down the three hundred and sixty-five 
steps with the thermometer 85^ in the shade, will 



135 

always be retained as one of the grandest spots in 
memory. 

POINT LEVIS, 

on the other side of the river, opposite Quebec, will 
interest the stranger very much, immense and stu- 
pendous fortifications being in process of erection. 
Most tourists visiting Quebec pay the Saguenay a 
visit. The ticket office of this line is opposite the 
St. Louis Hotel, where my genial friend, Mr. R. M. 
Stocking, or his assistant, Mr. Henry Harris, will 
cheerfully impart any information required, he being 
the agent for all railroads and steamboats in Canada 
or that connect with the same in the United States. 

TO SUMMER TOURISTS. 

Visit St. Lawrence Hall Caconna. This elegant 
and spacious hotel, situated at the beautiful and 
fashionable Canadian Watering Place on the Lower 
St. Lawrence, one hundred and twenty miles below 
Quebec, opposite the mouth of the far-famed Saguenay 
River, opened for guests June 15th, under the manage- 
ment of Mr. McCaffrey, who for many years has been 
connected with the well known St. Louis Hotel, 
Quebec. 

RIVER SAGUENAY. 

To the pleasure-seeker, or to the man of science, 
there can be nothing more refreshing and delightful, 
anything affording more food for reflection or 
scientific observation, than a trip to that most won- 
derful of rivers, the Saguenay. On the way thither, 
the scenery of the Lower St. Lawrence is extraor- 
dinarily picturesque; a broad expanse of water, 



136 

• 

interspersed with rugged solitary islets, highly culti- 
vated islands, and islands covered with trees to the 
water's edge, hemmed in by lofty and precipitous 
mountains on the one side, and by a continuous street 
of houses, relieved by beautifully situated villages, 
the spires of whose tin-covered churches glitter in 
the sunshine, affords a prospect so enchanting that, 
were nothing else to be seen, the tourist would be 
well repaid; but when, in addition to all this, the 
tourist suddenly passes from a landscape unsurpassed 
for beauty into a region of primitive grandeur, where 
art has done nothing, and nature everything; when, 
at a single bound, civilization is left behind and 
nature stares him in the face, in naked majesty; when 
he sees Alps on Alps arise; when he floats over 
unfathomable depths, through a mountain gorge, the 
sublime entirely overwhelms the sense of sight and 
fascinates imagination. 

The change produced upon the thinking part of 
man, in passing from the broad St. Lawrence into 
the seemingly narrow and awful deep Saguenay, 
whose waters lave the sides of the towering moun- 
tains, which almost shut out the very light of heaven, 
is such that no pen can paint nor tongue describe. It 
is a river one should see if only to know what dread- 
ful aspects nature can assume in wild moods. Com- 
pared to it the Dead Sea is blooming, and the wildest 
ravines cozy and smiling; it is wild and grand, 
apparently, in spite of itself. On either side, rise 
cliffs varying in perpendicular height from 1,200 to 
1,600 feet, and this is the character of the River 
Saguenay from its mouth to its source. Ha ! Ha ! 
Bay, which is 60 miles from its mouth, affords the 



J37 

first landing and anchorage. The name of this bay 
is said to arise from the circumstance of early navi- 
gators proceedinof in sailing vessels up a river of 
this kind for 60 miles, with eternal sameness of 
feature, stern and high rocks on which they could 
not land, and no bottom for their anchors, at last 
broke out into laughing Ha ! Ha ! when they found 
landing and anchorage. This wonderful river seems 
one huge mountain rent assunder at some remote age 
by some great convulsion of nature. The reader who 
goes to see it (and all ought to do so who can, for it 
is one of the great natural wonders of the continent,) 
can add to the poetical filling up of the picture from 
his own imagination. 

This beautiful trip is easy and facile of accomplish- 
ment as new and magnificent boats, rivaling in lux- 
uriousness with any in our inland waters, run 
regularly to Ha ! Ha ! Bay, on board of which the 
pleasure seeker will experience all that comfort and 
accommodation which is necessary to the full enjoy- 
ment ot such a trip. 

To the foregoing descriptions we append an extract 
from the letter of a writer in the Buffalo Commercial 
Advertiser, who has apparently gone over the "ground" 
with much satisfaction. Speaking of the great pleas- 
ure route he says: 

"There is probably no route in the known world 
presenting more attractions to the tourist than that 
from Buffalo to Montreal and Quebec, via Lake 
Ontario and the St. Lawrence river; presenting, first, 
the visit to the great Cataract, next, Lake Ontario, 
the river St. Lawrence, and the romantic scenery of 
the 'Thousand Isles; ' then the sublime rapids, increas- 



•38 

ing in grandeur to the great culmination of the 
'Lachine Rapids,' and finally finishing with the beauti- 
ful scenery of and around the Falls of Montmorency, 
at Quebec, and down the Saguenay — all combine to 
make up more of the wild, romantic and sublime 
than can be found in the same number of miles and 
almost any traveled route in the known world." 

Returning to Montreal for our trip down Lake 
Cham plain and Lake George, to Saratoga, Albany, 
New York and Boston, as most of the tourists have 
tickets for these destinations, the routes need only 
be mentioned. The Delaware &: Hudson Canal Com- 
pany Railroad, and Central Vermont have ticket 
offices in Montreal, where information is courteously 
dispensed by obliging, gentlemanly clerks at all 
times. It would be useless here to print the time 
tables of the different roads, as changes occur too 
often for such information to be reliable. As you 
are supposed to be quartered at the new St. Lawrence 
Hall, which is in the heart of the city, and contains 
the Grand Trunk Railroad and Delaware & Hudson 
Canal Company offices, where at all times may be 
found Mr. C. C. McFall, the Delaware & Hudson 
Company's genial Agent for the Dominion of Canada^ 
directly opposite is the Central Vermont office, pre- 
sided over by A. C. Stonegrave, any time-table 
required, is easily obtainable; also adjoining is the 
office of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Com- 
pany. 

All railroads issuing summer excursion tickets 
through, over this line, allow passengers, if they 
desire, to procure at Port Kent depot a ticket which 
entitles them to visit Au Sable Chasm, and to return 



139 

to Port Kent for 75 cents. The trip is made by the 
Port Kent, Au Sable and Keesville Stage Co., with 
the best of equipments over a splendid plank road, 
distance three miles. 

Leaving Montreal in the morning, by taking the 
first train on the Delaware & Hudson Canal Railroad, 
if you wish to make Lake George, Saratoga or 
Albany the same day, your ticket may read Lake 
Champlain Co. steamers, but it is all the same — boat 
and rail belong to the same parties. Should you 
desire to take Lake Champlain, leave Montreal in 
the afternoon and go to Au Sable Chasm, via Port 
Kent, remain over night at Lake View House, taking 
the boat at 8 a. m., from there to Fort Ticonderoga, 
and then down Lake George, or proceed on the train 
at 10:30. By getting off at Port Kent, the distance to 
Lake View House is only three miles by stage over a 
first-class plank road; therefore, it may be said, if 
you desire to make both lakes on the same day, you 
are compelled to leave Montreal in the afternoon, 
and go to Au Sable Chasm via Port Kent, and 
remain over night at the Lake View Hotel, which 
will be found to be an excellent house; taking the 
boat in the morning. If tickets read by the Central 
Vermont Railroad, you go to Burlington, where you 
arrive for supper, and as the boat does not leave 
there until nine o'clock in the morning, you have 
plenty of time to see that beautiful city before the 
leaving of the boat; at any rate you won't have to 
rise as early as if you were at Plattsburg. 



140 



MY FIRST VISIT TO AU SABLE CHASM. 

As long as anything shall remain green in my 
memory, I feel confident it will be the impression of 
that charming view and grand natural spectacle, Au 
Sable Chasm. 

Arising early in the morning, if not with the lark, 
a v6ry good second in the race, I was invited by the 
manager of the Lake View House to visit the chasm. 
Accepting the same, we proceeded through the gate 
and down the steps, which I did not stop to count; 
but the number was sufficient for a man of my weight, 
and as large bodies move slowly, I was behind the 
rest of our gay, hilarious party, because I remained 
to drink in the beauties my eyes were feasting upon. 
Reaching the end of the chasm, where we take the 
boat for the rapids, I did not have confidence to 
proceed the rest of the journey with my companions 
(as I felt I was too large a crowd for the boat), but, 
returning as I came, which very few people do, I was 
more impressed by the grandeur of the scenery — 
more than going down. Returning to the hotel some 
hours after my party, I had stories to tell that caused 
many of them to return and make the trip that I had. 
If there is any view on earth that will please you, it 
is the one obtained from any point at the Lake View 
House, Au Sable Chasm, looking at Lake Champlain 
and the Green Mountains of Vermont on one side, 
and the Chasm or Adirondacks on the other. 

Before the completion of the railroad, boats left 
Rouse's Point, on Lake Champlain, and a train left 
Montreal to connect; but as the route on Lake 
Champlain has been discontinued, from Rouse's Point 



141 

to Plattsburg, really the most picturesque part of the 
trip down Lake Charnplain, being cut off, most of the 
tourists take the rail in the morning from Montreal 
and can pass through Lake Champlain by rail. The 
rail passing close along the lake shore, one gets a 
very nice view — better, as I have often expressed it, 
than if the parties were on the boat, as they cannot 
see both shores in a boat at once, unless the tourist's 
eyes were cut out on the bias or cross, thus enabling 
them to see both sides at once. The rail is preferable 
and saves time. As it is immaterial to me how you 
reach Ticonderoga, it is presumed you get there. 
Lake George Junction is where you change cars and 
connect for Baldwin, which is a ride of about fifteen 
minutes. You are now supposed to have arrived on 
board the company's steamers Horicon or Ticonderogar 
and are sailing up Lake George. Now, if the reader 
expects me to describe Lake George, I shall simply 
say No! with a large N. It is too much; its praises 
have been written and sung for the past half century 
by thousands. I shall, with pleasure and relief to 
myself, ask the loan of your scissors. Thanks ; now 
we can comply with your wishes: We have started on 
our trip through this magical lake. It is difficult to 
describe the quiet delight one feels as he gazes on 
the expanse of the tranquil azure spread before him 
like a part of the sky inlaid on the emerald bosom of 
the earth. Peace is in the very air which lazily 
slumbers over the water, while the monotone of the 
silvery ripples rolling on the yellow sands, and the 
musical moan of the breeze in the cone-scented pines, 
seem to carry the soul back to other days. Lake 
George is, indeed, like a work of art of the highest 



142 

order, for it has the quality of improving, the more 
one studies its attractions, and the ever-harmonious 
flow of lines constantly suggests a composition of 
consummate genius in which every effect has been 
combined to produce a certain ideal. 

Now, dear reader, I have a favor to ask of you; 
read this little book as far as Saratoga description 
commences; then lay it aside, and feast the eyes on 
Lake George for the next two hours, and, if you can 
describe its beauties, do so to the best of your ability, 
and forward to me, 21 Chestnut Park, Rochester, N. 
Y., and it shall have a place in this work, and you 
shall have the credit for the same; — the task was too 
much for me. 

CAMPING OUT. 

The lake is a famous camping ground, during July 
and August, and its enjoyments, with bits of sound 
advice, can not be better given than by the following, 
from Stoddart's charming guide to Lake George: 

" The lovely islands are suddenly astir with busy 
throngs. Rocks are decked with blue and gray, the 
tree-tops blush with bunting; shores put on a flannelly 
hue, and shadowy point blossom out in duck and 
dimity. It is safe to say that in the course of the 
season a thousand people taste the pleasures and 
overcome the difficulties that but season the glorious 
dish of camp life at Lake George. Among the 
necessaries are a light axe, long handle frying-pan, 
tin pail for water or coffee, tin plate, pint cup, knife 
and fork, and fishing tackle. A stove-top laid on a 
fire-place of stones and mud, and supplied with one 
length of stove-pipe, is a positive luxury to the cook. 



143 

Spruce boughs for a bed, with two or three good 
woolen blankets for covering, will be found very 
comfortable; a small bag to fill with leaves or moss 
for a pillow pays for itself in one night. Flannel or 
woolen clothing, with roomy boots and a soft felt 
hat, is ordinarily the safest dress. Ladies, wear what 
you have a mind to — you will, anyway — but let it be 
flannel next to you, good strong shoes under foot, 
and a man's felt hat overhead; take the man along 
too — he will be useful to take the fish off your hook, 
run errands, etc. 

" Boats and provisions may be obtained at almost 
any of the hotels. Bacon, salt pork, bread and butter, 
Boston crackers, tea, coffee, sugar, pepper and salt, 
with a tin box or two for containing the same, are 
among the things needed. Milk can be obtained 
regularly at the farm houses and berries picked 
almost anywhere. Ice is a luxury which may be con- 
tracted for and thrown from the passing steamers 
daily; a hole in the ground with a piece of bark over 
it forms a very good ice-box. A drinking cup of 
leather, to carry in the pocket, comes handy at times. 
Broad-brimmed straw hats are a nuisance. A shanty 
of boughs will answer in absence of anything better; 
it sounds well when you talk about ' roughing it,' 
but it is bad in practice. A tent is best, and may be 
made very comfortable with a little outlay of money 
and labor." 

THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The great wilderness of northeastern New York, the 
limits of which we will not try to define, is generally 
known as the North Woods^ or as the Adirondacks, 



144 

according to the view taken of its surface. The 
former title indicates merely a wild, densely wooded 
region; the latter, a region occupied by all the varied 
scenery pertaining to a most remarkable lake and 
mountain system. The wild region of dense forest, 
majestic mountains, magnificent lakes and beautiful 
rivers, lies in the counties of Herkimer, Hamilton, 
Lewis, St. Lawrence, Clinton, Franklin and Essex, 
and aggregates over 3,500,000 acres, a tract of land 
of an area of nearly 100 square miles. This region 
is the only primitive hunting and fishing grounds left 
in New York State, and offering, as it does, rare 
health-restoring qualities, combined with excellent 
deer hunting, and the best of brook and lake trout 
fishing accessible, is yearly more than doubling its 
number of visitors — in fact, the limit is only measured 
by hotel capacity. It is not our purpose, nor would 
it be possible in so small a work as this^ to go into 
details as to the wilderness, but guide-books are easily 
obtained, and The Delaware & Hudson R. R. issue a 
large amount of information upon the subject, which 
are easily obtainable from their General Passenger 
Agent, J. W. Burdick, Albany, N. Y. 

MY TRIP OVER THE GRAVITY RAIL- 
ROAD. 

In 1876, the centennial year, this country was visited 
by scores, yes hundreds, of foreign visitors who came 
to our shores in quest of sights. Up to this time the 
company owning and working the Gravity railroad 
persistently refused any one transportation over it. 
No matter how much they pleaded or petitioned there 
was not anything they could do to move the heart of 



•45 

that corporation. At last light came through the 
darkness; a female lawyer conceived the idea that way 
back in 1823, when the road was first built, the right 
of way was given as a public highway, and so she de- 
manded transportation or they must abide the conse- 
quences. 

I have been a great traveler in my day and have seen 
almost everything on this continent that is worth see- 
ing. I was annoyed more by people asking questions 
about the Gravity railroad than as to any other spot in 
thecountry, so to the end that I might be in a better 
position to talk of it, I concluded to make the trip and 
see its beauties. Kno-wing that misery loves com- 
pany, I determined to take my daughter along, to the 
end that she could have the misery while I could be in 
good company. 

We left Albany, N. Y., on Wednesday morning 
at 8:30 o'clock, over the Delaware and Hudson 
Canal Company's railroad. Station after station 
w-as passed; our eyes feasting upon the beauties 
of the mountain, valley, river, hillside and plain, 
but we had left that most beautiful of all pictures, Lake 
George, so could not drink in the ever changing 
scenes as we otherwise would. We were almost in 
dreamland when a party of hop pickers boarded the 
train ; a happier, jollier, good natured crowd of 
country girls and boys we never saw before. The 
usual violin, guitar, bones and mouth organ accom- 
panied them, and while they were with us, which 
was tor over an hour, they kept up a continual revelry. 

In the beautiful agricultural districts through which 
we passed, the corn fields were almost a bright yellow 
with the thousands of pumpkins that almost hid the 



146 

earth from view. Our thoughts went back to the 
days when we were boys and made hideous jack lan- 
terns to frighten nervous females and timid boys. 
One passenger remarked to another, "Is the pumpkin 
a berry or a fruit ? " After a little discussion it was 
left to me, and 1 decided that it made berry good pie 
to say the least. 

Can't say what struck the train ; the effects of the 
joke, probably, was the cause of the train coming to 
a standstill and suddenly the brakeman called out 
"Nineveh Junction, change cars," which we did, and 
were soon on our way to Carbondale, running under 
that greatest of stone viaducts, over which passes the 
Erie Railroad, and came to numerous coal pits, coal 
shafts and coal towns, and soon that long-looked-for 
announcement by the trainman breaks upon our ear- 
drum, " Carbondale, change for the Gravity Rail- 
road." This we did very quickly, and found we were 
noticed by a fine looking old gentlemen we discovered 
to be the Superintendent, Mr. R. Manville. After 
looking us over for size, style and general appear- 
ance, took us for some one of note, which we were, 
and ordered out an elegant new coach for our sole 
use, as there was not room in the regular. This was 
one occasion in my life that my weight and size 
helped me to gain a prominent position. 

" All aboard," was the next sound I heard and 
looked around to see if I was all there, and we 
started. Our coach being in front, we acted as 
engine, and soon rounded at the first incline. Up to 
this time no propelling power was used, simply our 
weight and the gravity of the roadbed. Now we 
were attached to a cable and taken at the rate of 



147 

ten to fifteen miles per hour up an incline ; then 
a little way of our own gravity, we came to another 
incline, and so on to incline after incline, until we 
arrived at Far View. 

The top of a mountain 2,350 feet above the level of 
the sea. From that point we struck at what is called 
the ten mile level, but it has forty-four feet fall to 
the mile. And here we glide without any apparent 
power thirty or forty miles per hour ; without the 
annoyance of the engine, with its whistle, dust, smoke 
and cinders, and so elated with our ride that we 
deem heaven but a little way off ; this huge body of 
mine was for a moment ethereal, imagining that I 
had been flying, instead of the train. 

Looking a little ahead I saw the village of 
Honesdale in the distance and a most magnificent 
hotel located on the top of a mountain or bluff in the 
rear of the village, and almost as quick as thought 
we arrived. Alighting from the car we were met by 
Mr. H. J. Conger, who took us in charge and 
escorted us to the Allen House. After a little 
preparation supper was announced, and if ever that 
word was appreciated it was on that occasion by 
myself as well as my daughter. After doing 
ample justice to that very memorable meal, I was 
invited by Mr. Conger, and a lady guest at the hotel 
invited my daughter, to take a walk, as they desired to 
show us the village. It was on a Wednesday 
evening and all the different churches were sending 
forth their peal of the bell for the assembling 
together of the different congregations. Mr. Conger 
•and myself were in deep conversation and did not 
notice we were holding the crowd behind us at bay 



148 

by our slow marshal tread. Presently I heard a 
remark coming from a lady directly behind us to this 
effect : " Who is that large, fleshy gentleman with 
Mr. Conger ?" " I don't know, he must be a stranger 
in town." " Oh, I am sorry, I wish he lived here." 
"Why ?" " If he did I would form his acquaintance 
very quickly and invite him up to the house every 
evenine six times a week." "What for?" " So he 
could sit down on our bible and press our autumn 
leaves.^' 

At this juncture we smiled and turned the corner, 
and proceeded up as far as the river bridge, then 
joining the ladies we passed through the principal 
business streets and returned to the hotel, after an 
an hour and a half's walk. We parted with Mr. 
Conger, after spending a very pleasant hour in the 
parlor of the hotel with some of the guests, when our 
watch denoted that the hour of bedtime had arrived. 
We retired * * * awoke, if not with the 
lark, a very good second, and at about seven o'clock 
went to the depot to take the car, where we were intro- 
duced to Mr. William Muir, the superintendent of the 
Delaware & Hudson Canal Company at this point, 
who very kindly showed us the manner in which the 
cars were loaded with coal ; also the different screens 
used in selecting the different sizes of coal and the 
manner in which that commodity is placed upon 
canal boats. We also saw the working of the steam 
shovel in loading from huge mountains of coal. 

At the time appointed we took our special car and 
proceeded to return to Carbondale. The distance 
from Carbondale to Honesdale is 16 miles, from 
Honesdale to Carbondale is 20 miles. Entering our 



149 

k 

car we arrived at the first incline, and were soon at 
that part of the road called Horseshoe Bend. This 
gorge was formerly spanned by a bridge 175 feet high. 
By gravity we pass around a curve. The sight of the 
autumn foliage is grand, and the beautiful little 
village of Seelyville in the distance. We arrive at 
incline number fourteen, there are twenty-eight of 
these inclines in all. The sight of the track below, 
one hundred cars loaded with coal taking their serpen- 
tine windings around the various curves, run by an 
invisible power, is a sight once seen is never forgotten. 
Prompton Pass is the next place of note and we arrive 
at incline number sixteen, the engineer of which has 
made a beautiful flower garden amid rocks and coal 
which is very delightful to the eye. The large pond 
and station next in order is the feeder of the Dela- 
ware and Hudson Canal. Waymart is the next sta- 
tion where trains are loaded fifty cars each ; this place 
is 1,450 feet above tide water. Next is incline num- 
ber nineteen, over a half a mile in length, on the top 
of which is Far View, where we were met by Mr. R. 
Manville who invited us to take a ride in his democrat 
wagon with two spirited horses attached. Had the 
wagon been any smaller or the horses any less we 
would not have had the pleasure of taking in Far View. 
After they had procured a derrick and some steps I 
was gently raised into the seat in the vehicle and we 
proceeded on our tour of inspection. Everything 
that can be done, until the ingenuity of man is 
taxed to its utmost capacity for the pleasure and ac- 
commodation of the visitors has been done by the 
company. Hundreds of seats, chairs and benches are 
arranged everywhere. 



ISO 

Observatories, where you can ascend 150 feet to 
enhance your view ; grounds for base ball, croquet, 
lawn tennis ; in fact everything to make it pleasant 
for picnic excursions or tourist travel, has been done. 
We proceeded to the highest observatory, which we 
found was a little too high for our observation on 
account of a dense fog, so that we had to feast our 
eyes from below. The observatory is twenty-six 
hundred feet above the level of the sea, and from its 
summit may be seen nineteen small lakes or bodies of 
water, springs as it were, upon the top of the moun- 
tain. From one the company use twenty-six thousand 
gallons of water daily. A magnificent view of the 
Adirondacks of New York, the White Mountains of 
New Hampshire and Green Mountains of Vermont, 
can be had on a clear day. There is some talk of 
building a hotel here for tourists, of which, when com- 
pleted, I want to be one of the first guests. The 
time having arrived to depart, we were invited to 
inspect the huge engine, boilers and fan wheel, used 
to convey cars up and down the incline, and we 
should advise visitors to take in the Engineers' Art 
Gallery, which is really a curiosity. Our car being 
attached to the regular train we proceeded on our 
way to Carbondale, which is 12 miles. Again on our 
way three miles and a half we are at the Shepherd's 
Crook. The engineer, conductor and brakeman are 
in one person, occupying the front platform. He put 
on the brake and our car stood still and we had the 
pleasure of seeing the regular train ahead pass 
around the Shepherd's Crook. After witnessing that 
novel sight Mr. Manville told his brakeman to catch 
the regular train, which seemed to us about three 



miles ahead. All he had to do was simply let up on 
his brake, and it seems as if we were there, for while 
I was taking in the scenes which greeted my eye we 
had joined the regular train, and I asked him how 
long before we would catch up to it, and I was in- 
formed we were already coupled on; "for," said he, 
" the cows for the whole village of Carbondale pasture 
upon this hill side, and we have them educated for 
all the regular trains but not for specials, and for 
that reason I didn't care to run over any of the 
cattle and be accessory after the fact of their demise, 
so we coupled on to save me trouble and expense." 
Looking out I saw a woman in charge of about eight 
or ten cows, and truthfully, she was the homeliest 
person I ever saw. I asked him if they had female 
herderesses here, and he remarked "yes." I then said 
they must use that one's face to wean the calves by. 

"Carbondale, change cars." 

After bidding everybody good-bye we took our 
seat in the D. & H. company's regular train for 
Albany, arriving at five o'clock and thirty minutes in 
the afternoon. 

LAKE GEORGE. 

Every American, or tourist, should see it at least 
once. It is the largest of the Adirondack chain, 346 
feet above the sea, and 247 above Champlain, thirty- 
five miles long and from two to four in width, and 
fed from mountain brooks and springs coming up 
from the bottom, making it transparent. It is beau- 
tifully dotted with over 200 islands, and surrounded 
by high mountains, some rising 2,000 feet above the 
water, clothed with foliage and dotted with villas and 



picturesque camps; one feels like leaving the boat 
and remaining in this bower of enchantment. The 
steamers touch at all points of note, and arrive at the 
Sagamore Hotel, where you can, if you desire, remain 
over. 

THE SAGAMORE 

stands among the trees at the south end of the Green 
Island, 40 feet above the level of the lake, command- 
ing from its upper windows the grand scenery of the 
Narrows on the east, the broad lake and bays at the 
south and west, and the mountains on every side. 

The buildings comprising the Sagamore are of 
uncertain number, of varying levels, and picturesque 
in their grouping. The style is that popularly sup- 
posed to belong to the sixteenth century, — rising, 
one back of another, with short flights of steps 
between, connected by open corridors with charming 
outlooks; its varied porticoes, balconies and gables 
admirably displayed in colors that harmonize richly 
with their native surroundings. 

Its interior finish is plain, but rich and substantial, 
showing massive beams, fireplaces of artistic designs 
in terra cotta, tinted walls and joiner work in native 
woods. 

The furnishing is all that can be desired ; chairs 
and sofas, multiform and inviting, of different woods, 
polished, and of willow-ware; the upholstery bright 
and cheerful; the beds of the best kind procurable; 
in short, no effort has been spared, nor cost con- 
sidered, in making this the ideal hotel. 

The main hall and office, and the principal parlor 
^nd reading and smoking rooms are on the main 



153 

floor, looking out upon a semi-circular lawn, with 
flower-bordered walks, leading down to the steam- 
boat landing, and revealing between its stately trees 
delightful vistas of lake and islands beyond. 

In the office are electric bells, with a system of 
wires running to the various rooms, placing them in 
immediate communication with base of supplies. 

Telegraphic connection is made with the Western 
Union system at Caldwell by special wire in the 
office. 

The news and notion stand supplies daily papers, 
periodicals, guides, maps, photographs, fine candies 
and fancy goods. 

An elevator is here for the service of such as may 
prefer it to the short flights of steps by which the 
upper floors are reached. 

The Edison Incandescent Light is used throughout 
the entire establishment. 

Spring water is brought from the mountains two 
miles away and 500 feet above the lake, and carried 
to every floor, where hose and pipe attachment 
affords the best of protection against possible danger 
from fire. 

The sleeping rooms are spacious — many of them 
en suite, with private balconies and outside as well as 
hall entrances. 

The sanitary conditions are perfect, made so by the 
employment of the most approved methods of drain- 
age, for the application of which the location is 
admirably adapted. 

Baths, hot and cold, may be had at the hotel and 
bath-houses outside; while those who like open air 
and water for the sport, will find retired places and 
sandy beach near by. 



T54 

Amusements: billiards and bowling within, and 
croquet, tennis, polo and archery without. 

Riding and driving are provided for in the exten- 
sive stables on the island, and accommodations for 
those who may bring their own equipage. The 
drives are many and delightful. 

Fishing, rowing, sailing or ''steaming" are all 
made attractive by respectful attendants, and a fleet 
of boats ranging from the tiny skiff to the comfort- 
able steam yacht. 

A large hall for music and social gatherings has 
been built, connected with the main building at its 
highest point. Two new cottages also, and twenty- 
six new and desirable sleeping rooms have been 
added. 

The line steamers land on every regular trip through 
the lake, connecting with the trains at each end, and 
run from Caldwell to the Sagamore dock on the 
arrival of the evening train from the south. 

The proprietor, Mr. M. O. Brown, long and popu- 
larly known as a hotel man on the lake, will spare no 
pains to make your sojourn attractive in all respects. 

The Cuisine is perfect. The Chef and assistants 
are from the leading New York hotels. The Head 
Waiter, with his excellent and full corps of carefully 
trained and experienced waiters, the best that could 
be obtained. This is the only hotel on the entire 
lake that employs white male waiters. 

As I have cheerfully recommended tourists for the 
last five years to make a short stay at least at this 
delightful resort, the Sagamore, (it is as near heaven 
as many mortals will reach,) get within its portals if 
but for a short time, that you may realize its beauties, 
then you can thank me for the suggestion, as many 



155 

others have, and I will be well repaid. Connections 
are, however, arranged for, and you can, if you wish, 
leave immediately for Caldwell. 

FACILITIES FOR LAKE TRAVEL. 

The Champlain Transportation Company run a 
regular line of steamboats the entire length of the 
lake, making three round trips daily (except Sunday), 
and stopping at all way landings. The Horicon of 
this line, making the regular connections with the 
railroad, is a fine side-wheel steamer 203 feet long 
and 52 feet wide over all, and is 643 tons burden, and 
will accommodate comfortably 1,000 people. I can 
truthfully say that upon no inland lake in the world 
is the passenger service so promptly and regularly 
done, and passengers so elegantly cared for as upon 
Lake George. 

Caldwell is the railroad terminus, and is the 
largest town on the lake. It is situated at the extreme 
southern end, or head of the lake (the waters flowing 
north and emptying into Lake Champlain, imme- 
diately at the ruins of old Fort Ticonderoga). At 
Caldwell is located the handsome dock and depot 
building of the railroad company, whose trains run 
down the dock immediately to the steamers — one of 
which leaves upon the arrival of each train, for all 
points down the lake. The railroad was extended 
to this point in 1883, thus saving at least one hour of 
time, and better facilities for the accommodation of 
tourists and pleasure travel. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

the focus to which the fashionable world of the 
United States, indeed, of Europe, is annually drawn. 



156 

Here are intellectual men, stylish men, the beaux of 
society, and the man of the world; ladies of social 
rank, the managing mother, the marriageable daugh- 
ters, the fluttering bee of fashion, and the more gentle 
bird of beauty, are found amidst the throng, for 
Saratoga is cosmopolitan. As a gentleman said to 
me one day, " I can meet more of my friends in one 
hour during the season at Saratoga than I could at 
home in a week." The ladies here have ample oppor- 
tunities to display their peculiar charms and graces. 
The sporting gentleman can also find an opportunity 
to gratify his peculiar tastes; the philosopher may 
study human nature; the invalid find perfect health; 
in fact every one at Saratoga finds that peculiar 
pleasure they most desire. Of all the elegant hotels 
which here abound we have not space to mention. I 
will, therefore, speak of those I know, the United 
States, Clarendon Hotel and Adelphi, confident they 
can please any one paying them a visit. The Clarendon 
Hotel has this year been transformed in more ways 
than one. I will only say that it will be under the 
management of Chas. E. Leland, and to those who 
patronize hotels this name speaks volumes. Next 
comes the Adelphi Hotel — this new, comfortable and 
petite hotel is located on Broadway, contains over 
one hundred rooms, is convenient to the springs, etc., 
etc. Its piazza is elevated one story above the street 
and commands a splendid view up and down Broad- 
way, as well as Phila street, opposite. The proprietor, 
A. E. Wilder, is too well known to the traveling 
community to need one word from me, and the gen- 
tlemen connected with the office, Mr. Ed. M. Dillon, 
of Leland's Hotel, Chicago, 111., and Mr. John T. Mc- 



T57 

Caffrey, of the Gilsey House, New York, and Mr. 
Patrick N. Quinlan, in charge of the dining room and 
other departments of the house, are too well qualified 
to need commendation. It is " my home " when in 
Saratoga; that is all I have to say against it. It is the 
universal opinion of tourists that no watering place on 
the continent, of like size, can compare with the un- 
wearying charms of Saratoga. The hotel arrivals 
some days are upwards of one thousand. One might 
become almost tired of the world and vote every 
other place a bore, but Saratoga scenery, Saratoga 
atmosphere and Saratoga life would still charm by its 
ever pleasing peculiarities. Mount McGregor, the 
place selected above all others for its pure air, etc., 
etc., as a residence for our hero, Gen. U. S. Grant, 
who arrived at Saratoga on June i6th, 1885, (during 
my stay for health,) so I had the pleasure of seeing 
the old veteran while he was being conveyed to the 
Mount McGregor R. R., which ascends to the top of 
fhe mountain, where visitors can go almost every 
hour and get a view that will well repay them. I left 
Saratoga on the morning of the 19th of June, and 
was informed by the conductor of the Mt. McGregor 
R. R. that General Grant rested well the previous 
night and slept ten hours. As all are aware, our hero 
departed this life July 23d. The cottage, however, is 
kept in the same manner as the day he left it, and 
will become an historic place for visitors who come 
to Saratoga from all parts of the world. 

It is a fact, and worthy of note here, that for the 
past four years there has not been one day during the 
months of July and August, but they have had a 
heavy frost on Mount McGregor. I can vouch for 



158 

the truthfulness of this item because I know him. He 
was the conductor of the train on the Mt. McGregor 
R. R., weighs 280 pounds, and his name is Frost. 
(He was a broad-gauge conductor on a narrow-gauge 
railroad.) But this year Mr. Albert Frost has assumed 
the management of the down-town business of the 
Mt. McGregor R. R. Buy your tickets before taking 
the cars. 

Saratoga contains 10,000 inhabitants, and in the 
summer season every private house is turned into a 
boarding house of one or the other class, and there- 
fore boarding houses abound — no space to mention 
all of them here. 

Next in order comes the Springs. First in the list 
is the old and ever popular Congress Springs. 

CONGRESS SPRINGS 

was discovered nearly a century ago — 1792 — by Hon. 
James Taylor, Member of Congress from New 
Hampshire. The park connected with the springs is 
beautifully laid out with walks, groves, flowers, trees, 
and ponds in which speckled trout abound, fountains, 
statuary, live deer, etc., etc.; where night and day the 
beauty and fashion come for pleasure and to imbibe 
the water of Columbia and Congress Springs, which 
are within the enclosure. Those who are posted 
come here and drink. During the past year the 
owners have re-tubed Congress Springs, which has 
proved eminently successful and now have the water 
secure at a depth in the rock which precludes the 
possibility of any change in the near future. The 
flow is ample and quality genuine; in some respects 
better than any produced by the spring in all the 



^59 

hundred years of its past history. In turn I feel that 
they can congratuhite the general public on being 
able to secure Congress Water strengthened and 
vitalized in those qualities which have so long made 
it famous as a Cathartic and Alterative as well as a 
sure aid to the digestive organs. 

HATHORN SPRINGS 

was accidentally discovered in 1869, and is named 
after the Hon. H. H. Hathorn, its owner. It is a 
powerful cathartic. The water is bottled for sale, and 
is probably the most solid water known, as it is said 
to contain eight hundred and eighty-eight grains 
solid contents to a gallon. 

EXCELSIOR SPRINGS AND PARK, 

some distance from town, as well as others I shall 
mention, you can visit when you take a drive. Wash- 
ington Spring is on the grounds of one of the hotels. 
Crystal Pavilion, High Rock, Star, Seltzer, Red, a 
Spring, Geyser or spouting spring, Robert Ellis, The 
Vichy, "The Champion Spouting Spring," Hamilton, 
Putnam, Flat Rock, Magnetic, Sulphur, Iron and 
Diamond, as well as a number of others which have 
just been discovered, or may have been before this 
reaches you. If, however, you are not satisfied with 
the springs herein mentioned, all I ask is for you to 
visit the ones mentioned, as I did, and accept the 
cordial invitation of each to take a glass, and if you 
do not feel the next day that there are springs 
enough at Saratoga, your feelings will be different 
from the sensations felt by the writer of this article 
by a large majority. The drives in this vicinity are 



i6o 

numerous. The road to the cemetery (which, I am 
informed by one of the oldest inhabitants, in order to 
start, they were obliged to borrow a corpse from an 
adjoining county, and now a select few who wish to 
die happy come and are decently interred), has been 
improved, so that the drive is very much enhanced 
thereby. By far the prettiest drive, however, is 
through Broadway from Highland Hill for two miles 
to Glen Mitchell. The most fashionable drive is that 
to the Lake. Immense sums of money have been 
expended to widen and beautify this drive, which is 
loo feet wide and shaded with trees, and is sprinkled 
to lay the dust. Visitors pass up one side and down 
the other. Saratoga Lake is eight miles long and 
two and one-half wide. On an eminence on the 
western shore is Moon's Lake House, proverbial for 
its sumptuous game suppers. Parties fond of fishing 
or boating can enjoy this favorite pastime to their 
full extent. Mr. Moon retired some three years ago, 
being succeeded by Messrs. Kinney & Foley. Its 
fitness for aquatic sports has been verified by the 
many events of that nature which have taken place 
on its placid waters since 187 r, when the Ward 
Brothers vanquished two English crews selected from 
the best professional oarsmen of Great Britain. 
Racing is the turf event of the year, and cannot be 
described here, only mentioned. 

Life at Saratoga is two-fold — Home and Hotel. 
The former is enjoyed by its citizens, who possess 
some of the most luxurious, refined and elegant 
houses to be found in the United States. Hotel or 
fashionable life is ephemeral in its nature, and, like 
the beautiful butterflv, its duration is short. In these 



i6i 

few brief months wealth, beauty, fashion, and other 
ingredients not so desirable intermingle, and amid 
the gay whirl and excitement of the ball-room at 
night one is in a constant ecstacy. From his visit to 
the springs in the morning, promenades or drives in 
the afternoon, the music, lawn sociable and glittering 
fireworks at night, one wonders what time there is 
for even nature's balmy, sweet restorer — sleep. 
Anticipating your stay at Saratoga to have come to 
an end, you can depart for Albany any morning via 
Delaware & Hudson Canal Co.'s R. R., or West Shore 
R. R., who run solid trains to and from Saratoga to 
New York, and New -York to Saratoga, Pullman 
Buffett Cars. Some having tickets to New York by 
rail or boat, day or night from Troy or Albany. The 
general offices for all railroads or steamboats and 
bureau of information is in the Adelphi Hotel Build- 
ing, presided over by my genial friend, Mr. J. S. Gass 
(don't make any pun on his name, please). Do busi- 
ness with him and the transaction will remain ever 
"//*^/z/" in your memory. I advise everyone to take 
the Fall River Line to Boston. If you have tickets 
to Boston via Albany, all rail, take the Boston & 
Albany Railroad, which is first-class. 

NEW YORK. 

To those visiting New York for the first time, a 
few words of advice may not come amiss. I there- 
fore suggest arriving, if possible, by daylight. Every 
one in the city minds their own business — a credit in 
some ways; but some people make it their business to 
fleece the stranger. I would therefore say, keep 
your own counsel. If information be required ask a 



l62 

policeman. Upon arrival, take cars or stage, if pos- 
sible, to destination. If you desire any of the hotels 
represented in this work, you will always find one or 
more trusty porters at trains or boats. Avoid, if 
possible, the hacks, unless you make a fair, square 
bargain before entering the vehicle; your trunk or 
valise may accompany )'-ou with carriage. You will 
always find upon all trains or boats, courteous agents 
of the different baggage and express companies, who 
will take your check, giving a receipt for the same, 
which relieves you and saves you much trouble and 
annoyance, as their delivery system is prompt and 
their charges a stipulated price; no deviation, except 
for quantity. 

Something should be said here regarding the me- 
tropolis of the American Oontinent, but space as well 
as time prevents. As everything seen here is in 
grandeur superior to elsewhere, the impression made 
upon the mind while here will be everlasting. I 
shall nor try to befog the mind with as meagre a 
mention as I am capable of giving, but simply men- 
tion the principal hotels. The first one at hand is 
the Grand Union Hotel, 426. street, near the Grand 
Central Depot. Money-getting being the chief aim 
of life, its proper expenditure should not prove of 
secondary importance. That travel consumes a 
much larger portion of our finances than it should, 
is evident from the fact that but a few possess the 
secret of retrenching in that direction. Two 
important factors of expense in travel is carriage 
hire and transfer of baggage ; and that the traveling 
public is more generally becoming disposed to throw 
off their former burden, is patent from the army of 



i63 

guests who daily register at and fill the 600 rooms 
(reduced to $r.oo and upwards per day), at the Grand 
Union Hotel, opposite the Grand Central Depot, 
New York City. Its European plan, elegant restau- 
rants, cafe, lunch and wine rooms, unexcelled cuisine, 
moderate prices, courteous treatment, unchallenged 
management, coupled with its guests incurring no 
expense for carriage hire or baggage transfer, with 
elevated railway, horse cars and stages to all parts of 
the city passing its doors, renders the Grand Union 
one of the most desirable of homes for travelers in 
the city, and also established its success and world- 
famed popularity. 

A MAGNIFICENT HOTEL. 

The Murray Hill Hotel is situated on Park 
Avenue, in New York City, but one block from 
the Grand Central Depot. A more convenient 
hotel site for the accommodation of the newly 
arrived traveler who would at the earliest moment 
find a home could not have been selected. The 
house stands upon the highest grade in New York, 
and, of course, occupies the healthiest of locations. 
It is of great size, extending two hundred feet on 
the Avenue, more than two hundred feet on For- 
tieth street, on the one side, and on Forty-first 
street on the other. It is of granite, brown stone 
and brick, fire-proof. When the traveler finds a 



l64 

hotel in every way meeting his demands for com- 
fort, he may honestly praise it while he disparages 
no other. For New York contains many costly 
structures, whose proprietors severally believe that 
their guests have reason to be satisfied. Hotels 
are not advertised as second class by those that 
manage them. The man who is used to comfort 
at home is perhaps as good a judge as any one 
concerning what constitutes a satisfactory hotel. 
But, if you come to New York in the summer, 
J recommend you to this house, for in all this city 
there can be no healthier place in the warm season. 
There is a satisfaction felt at once upon entrance 
to this beautiful house. The vestibule is appar- 
ently just large enough; the handsome, short flight 
of marble steps that lead to the office seems to 
be just long enough, the great hall seems just 
high enough to satisfy fully the idea that one has 
of proper architectural proportion. The floor is of 
marble, but not the hideous black and white inset 
diagonal. The Sienna is set against the slate and 
is a carpet pattern. One rather expects it to be 
soft and yielding to the foot, it looks so like a 
Wilton. The office is roomy; not three or four 
only, but forty people may range themselves along 
its handsome counter ready to sign, in regular 
order, the register. The book stand is no con- 
tracted affair, but space enough is given to allow 



i65 

display of, and easy access to, all periodicals and 
newspapers. Everything is on a grand scale, but 
altogether convenient. The great fire-place, which, 
with its huge burning logs, in winter invites the 
guest to share its comfort, is an attraction that 
merits and receives enthusiastic comment. The 
electric clock, lighted at night, the chandeliers, 
which at the proper time, because of the light 
touch of a knob somewhere, instantly illuminate 
halls and parlors, have their supply of electricity 
from the great machines in the basement, and the 
ice that is used for "any purpose through all the 
house is made in huge condensers there. All the 
departments seem to be at all times in the best 
working order. All the employes seem ever will- 
ing to do their best to please the guest. There 
is a painstaking to furnish information when it is 
asked; if one clerk does not know he directs you 
to one who does. In the matter of meals, they 
are ready at all hours. At the time of registry, the 
choice is made between the American or European 
plan, but the restaurants above and below stairs 
are always available. It would be easy for me to 
compliment the management and the efficient office 
staff, but that goes for the saying. As space is 
limited, I need only advise you to give the Mur- 
ray Hill Hotel your patronage once; they will see 
that you make it your home thereafter. 



i66 

The next on the list is the Grand Central Hotel, 
Broadway, one of the largest in the the city. It has 
lately been refitted, re-decorated and re-furnished, 
and under its present proprietors, Messrs. Fayman 
& Sprague, is receiving the patronage its merits 
deserve. It is run on the American and European 
plans, so that anyone can be pleased. Its graded 
prices, its location and appointments, together with 
the friends one meets here, as it is patronized by more 
Southerners than any hotel in New York, makes it a 
pleasant place for tourist or traveler. I make it my 
home when in the city, and feel confident you will be 
pleased and recommend your friends there after a 
visit, the same as I do you. There was some talk of 
changing the name of this "landmark " on account 
of the thorough change in the hotel and manage- 
ment, Ithough I confess it would be applicable to 
the situation, as everything else has been changed, 
it would be better for its patrons to advertise the 
changes than the new name. Therefore, no matter 
what they call the Grand Central, it will please you 
as a hotel, and its prices are not extravagant. 

While in New York, about the middle of June, I 
thought it would be a good idea if some one of the 
many merchants in the city were to advertise in this 
little volume ; knowing it is not thrown away but 
retained as a souvenir; it will be a perpetual adver- 
tisement; I called upon three of the leading dry goods 
firms who stated that I was too late, they did no sum- 
mer business. No. 2 said my price was too high, but 
as I spend all the money I procured from advertisers 
on the printing of books and get my money off the 
sale his point was not well taken. No. 3 invited me 



167 

to call next season, which I hope to have the pleasure 
of doing. I would like to say here that I published 
this book and advised the advertisers therein to take 
the space, feeling it would bring back to them four- 
fold what they paid me. It will, therefore, afford me 
pleasure to have you mention to any of the adver- 
tisers that it was through my solicitation and this 
work that you favored them with your patronage ; 
it will do you no harm and benefit me. 

BOSTON 

is one of the most interesting of American cities, not 
only on account of Its thrilling traditions and his- 
torical associations, but for public enterprise and 
social culture, educational and literary facilities. Bos- 
ton is peculiarly Boston, and no one can describe its 
public, private or natural beauties in the space alloted 
me here. The principal sights are Bunker Hill 
Monument, Faneuil Hall, the Common, Public Gar- 
den, Old and New State Houses, Public Library, 
Old and New South Churches, Natural History 
buildings. Agricultural building, Institute of Tech- 
nology, New Trinity Church, Mount Auburn, Har- 
vard University building. Music Hall, the Great 
Organ, City Hall, Hospitals and other sights too 
numerous to mention here. Trimountan, or Three 
Mountains, as Boston was originally called, is a 
peninsula of about 700 acres, almost surrounded by 
the sea. Its climate in the hottest part of seasons is 
deliciously cool, bracing and invigorating, and it is 
undoubtedly one of the healthiest cities in the world. 
Its harbor, one of the best on the coast, is about 
twenty miles long by eight wide. Its many islands 



i68 

and coasts are lined with thousands of delightful 
summer resorts, reached by numerous railroads and 
steamboats every hour of the day, forming a pan- 
orama of busy life and pleasure to be seen nowhere 
else. Its drives inland are none the less interesting 
and picturesque, whether we visit the classic shades 
of old Harvard, the romantic walks at Wellesley, or 
the hundred delightful suburban villages, whose 
well-kept streets, bright lawns and elegant gardens 
simply reflect the elegance and taste within the 
homes of those who made Boston what it is. The 
excellent horse-car service of Boston is one of the 
best institutions. Nowhere else in the country is 
this important convenience to visitors so complete as 
here. The broad, handsome, open cars reach all 
points within ten miles of the City Hall, and give visit- 
ors a most delightful opportunity to see the attrac- 
tions at the least possible charge. 

Boston, the capital of Massachusetts, embraces 
Boston proper. East Boston, South Boston, Roxbury, 
West Roxbury, Brighton, Charlestown and Dor- 
chester. Boston proper, or old Boston, was very 
uneven in surface, and originally presenting three 
hills, Bacon, Copp's, the Fort, the former of which 
is about 130 feet above the sea. The Indian name of 
this peninsula was Shawmut, meaning "Sweet waters." 
A narrow strip of land called the "Neck" joined the 
peninsula to the main land ; this neck was formerly 
overflowed by the tide, but has been filled in and 
widened, and is now thickly built upon. East Boston 
occupies the west portion of Noodle's or Maverick's 
Island. Here is the deepest water of the harbor, and 
here the ocean steamers chiefly lie. The wharf now 



169 

used by the Cunard steamers is 1,000 feet long. 
South Boston extends about two miles along the 
south side of the harbor, an arm of which separates it 
from Boston proper. 

The first white inhabitant of Boston was the Rev. 
John Blackstone, supposed to have been an Episcopal 
Clergyman, and to have arrived in 1623. Here he 
lived until 1630, when John Winthrop, (afterward 
tlie first Governor of Massachusetts) came across the 
river from Charlestown, where he had dwelt with 
some fellow immigrants lor a short time. About 
1635 Mr. Blacl^stone sold his claim to the now popu- 
lous peninsula for -/:3o, and removed to Rhode 
Island. The first church was built in 1632; the first 
wharf in 1673. Four years later a postmaster was 
appointed, and in 1704 (April 24th), the first news- 
paper, called the Boston News Letter, was published. 
The. "Boston Massacre" happened March 5, 1770^ 
when three persons were killed and five wounded by 
the fire of the soldiers. In 1773 tea was destroyed in 
the harbor, and Boston bore a conspicuous part in 
the opening scenes of the Revolution. The city was 
incorporated in 1822, with a population of 45'000, 
which had increased to 136,881 in 1850, to 177.S50 in 
i860, and 250,526 in 1870. By the recent annexation 
of the suburbs of Brighton, Charlestown, West Rox- 
bury, etc., the population has been increased to 
341,919 (in February, 1876). Population 362,876 in 
1880. On the 9th of November, 1872, one of the 
most terrible conflagrations ever known in the 
United States swept away the principal business por- 
tion of Boston. The fire broke out on Saturday 
evening, and continued until noon on the following 



170 

day, when it was brought under control, but again 
broke forth in consequence of an explosion of gas, 
about midnight, and raged until 7 o clock Monday 
morning. The district burnt over extended from 
Summer and Bedford street on the south, to near 
State street on the north, and from Washington 
street east to the harbor. About 800 of the finest 
buildings in the city were destroyed, causing a loss 
of $80,000,000. 

OBJECTS OF ANTIQUARIAN INTEREST. 

Among "buildings with a history," the most inter- 
esting in the United States, next to Independence 
Hall in Philadelphia, is Faneuil Hall. The famous 
edifice, the " cradle of liberty," is in Dock Square, 
which also has an liistorical fame, because of the meet- 
ings of the Revolutionary patriots that were held 
there. The building was erected in 1742, by Peter 
Faneuil, a Huguenot merchant, and by him presented 
to the town. Its original dimensions were 100 by 40 
feet. Destroyed by fire in 1761, it was rebuilt in 1763, 
and enlarged to its present dimensions in 1805. A 
full length portrait of the founder, together with the 
pictures of Washington, by Stuart, of Webster, by 
Healy, of Samuel Adams, by Copely, and portraits of 
John Quincy Adams, Edward Everett, Abraham 
Lincoln, and Governor Andrew adorn the walls. 
The basement of the hall is a market. The old State 
House, in Washington street, at the head of State 
street, w^as erected in 1748, and was for half a century 
the seat of the " Great and General Court of Mass- 
achusetts," being the building of which such frequent 
mention is made in revolutionarv annals. It has long 



171 



been given up to business purposes, the interior 
having been completely remodeled, and the edifice 
surmounted by a roof which has wholly destroyed 
the quaint effect of the original architecture. Christ 
Church (Episcopal), in Salem street, near Copp's Hill, 
is the oldest church in the city, having been erected 
in 1722. It has a lofty steeple, and in the tower is a 
fine chime of bells. The Old South Church, corner 
of Washington and Milk streets, is an object of much 
interest. It is of brick, and was built in 1729, on the 
site where the first edifice of the society had stood 
since 1669. the church was used as a place of meeting 
by the heroes of '76, and during the British occupa- 
tion of the city was used as a place for cavalry-drill. 
It barely escaped the flames in the great fire. The 
Old South Society having erected a new place of 
worship on Boylston street, the old building was 
offered for sale, when a patriotic effort among the 
people originated a subscription for the purpose of 
raising funds to secure its preservation. King's 
Chapel (Unitarian), corner Tremont and School 
streets, was founded in 1686, and the present building, 
a plain granite structure, erected in i75o-54- Adjoin- 
ing the church is the first burying ground established 
in Boston. In it are buried Isaac Johnson, "the 
Father of Boston," Governor Winthrop, John Cotton 
and other distinguished men. On the corner of 
Washington and School streets is the Old Corner 
Book Store, a building dating from 1712. The Old 
North Burying-ground, on the brow of Copp's Hill, 
was the second established in the city, and is still 
sacredly preserved. Here lie three fathers of the 
Puritan Church, Drs, Increase, Cotton and Samuel 
Mather. 



172 



THE OLD CEMETERY IN THE COMMON. 

In that corner of the Common bounded by Tremont 
and Boylston streets, and lying directly between the 
Masonic Temple and the Public Library, is an old 
burying-ground, shut off from the Common and the 
streets by an iron fence. It was formerly known as 
the South, and later as the Central Burying-ground. 
It was opened in 1756, but the oldest stone is dated 
176 1. The best known name upon any of the ancient 
stones is that of Monsieur Julien, the most noted 
resiauranteur of the city a century past, and the 
inventor of the famous soup that still bears his name. 
This cemetery is the least interesting of the old 
burying places of Boston, and is consequently seldom 
noticed by the stranger. 

There are, according to the directory, nearly two 
hundred hotels in the city. With that fact in view, I 
shall mention, first, the American House and the 
United States. In suggesting to intending visitors 
to Boston the name of the " Old United States Hotel " 
the proprietor feels justified in recommending the 
house for just what it is, no more, no less. I am at 
home when in the United States Hotel; it pleases me, 
and I am positive it will please you. 

The United States Hotel is one of the oldest and 
best of the well-established hotels of Boston. • Its 
fame is widespread. Its seal dates back to 1826, and 
from that early date to the present it has been main- 
tained up to the best standard, but never better than 
now. It is situated directly opposite the Boston & 
Albany, within two blocks of the Old Colony, and 
only a short distance from the New York & New 



173 

England, and Providence Railroad stations, and is 
the nearest hotel to the retail portions of the city and 
the great commercial centers. 

The "United States" is occupied largely in winter 
by families owning their own private residences in 
the adjoining towns, who come into the city and 
make their residence at this famous old house for 
the winter months. During the summer season, 
therefore, their great family rooms are available for 
tourists, families and pleasure parties, giving accom- 
modations that could not otherwise be afforded, and 
so allow guests the most extensive variety of rooms 
at the lowest possible charges. During the summer 
months the rates are reduced to $2.50, $3.00, and $3.50 
per day, according to accommodations, with board; 
rooms without board, $r.oo and upwards, thus giving 
visitors an opportunity of making this hotel their 
permanent headquarters, from which to make daily 
excursions to the thousand places of historical inter- 
est wuth which the city and suburbs abound, and to 
the great manufacturing cities which surround it; 
while the fifteen hundred summer resorts and board- 
ing houses down the harbor and along the coast are 
available every fifteen minutes by boat or rail. Thus 
the "United States" will be found not only a most 
accessible and convenient hotel on arriving at Bos- 
ton, but will be found equally comfortable and eco- 
nomical for permanent as well as transient guests, 
while the facilities for reaching all the suburban 
localities and various sea-shore resorts are unequaled 
by any hotel in Boston. 

The American House, Boston, is the nearest first- 
class hotel to the northern and eastern railroad 



174 

depots, and can without hesitation be recommended 
as one of the best in the city. It has broad, well- 
lighted corridors, spacious public rooms and all 
modern improvements for the convenience of guests, 
and has long been noted for the cleanliness and 
comfort of its rooms, the invariable excellence of its 
table and that air of home-like comfort which is so 
refreshing to the tired traveler. It has a large num- 
ber of suites particularly desirable for families and 
large parties, and contains no dark rooms in which 
to store away an unsuspected midnight guest. It is 
perfectly ventilated, has six stairways from top to 
bottom, and was recently renovated and improved; 
furnishes superior accommodations at more moderate 
rates than most first-class hotels. It is regularly 
kept on the American plan, charging $3.00 and $3.50 
per day, according to size and location of rooms, and 
is deservedly popular with the best class of pleasure 
and commercial travelers; but rooms are let with or 
without meals, at the option of guests. 

My dear friend, John B. Schoffel, will, I am glad 
to know, manage this year his summer home, " Man- 
chester by the Sea," the finest resort on the coast. If 
you have time for only a call, take the Boston & 
Maine R. R., Gloucester branch ; only 25 miles from 
Boston. It is the summer home of Agnes Booth, 
John Gilbert, Joseph Proctor, Mrs. Bowers, Franklin 
Haven, Pres. Merchants Bank, and a host of others. 
Beautiful harbor and beach, bathing nine months in 
the year, drives unsurpassed in America; therefore if 
you are looking for the best in the land visit Man- 
chester by the Sea and be happy. 

One of the best traveling companions on a pleasure 



175 

trip is a reliable Railway Guide, and we advise the 
tourist to get the best, as a cheap guide is like a cheap 
watch — never on time. 

As we hold that this little volume is not thrown 
away, but taken home for future reference, a little 
advice of how to start upon a trip, etc., would not 
come amiss. We say 

ist, Select your route. 2d, Buy your tickets and 
secure your parlor car seats. 3d, Show your tickets 
to the baggage master and have your baggage 
checked. 4th, Go to the news stand and ask for The 
"Phat Boy's" Racy Description of the St. Lawrence 
River, or the Pathfinder's Railway Guide, as it is the 
oldest railway guide published, and the July number 
will contain the best railroad map ever published. 
It is the only recognized mouthpiece of the Passenger 
Agents' Association ; one can be assured of its relia- 
bility. The Phat Boy requests his friends to send to 
them next spring for a copy of their summer tours to 
select your vacation trip. Address, Pathfinder, Bos- 
ton, Mass. 5th, Don't bother the conductor by 
questions, as he has all he can do to attend to his 
train, and the Pathfinder's official tables and valuable 
maps tell the whole story. 

I have endeavored to describe faithfully and cor- 
rectly the route over which you have passed, dear 
reader. There are, doubtless, some whose knowledge 
of particular points is greater than my own ; to those 
I say most cheerfully, note them down, and forward 
to me, 21 Chestnut Park, Rochester, N. Y., and, 
I assure you, they shall have a position in the next 
■ edition of this work, as my object and aim is to make 
this a perfect guide for any person desirous of mak- 
ing this, the finest trip on the continent. 



176 

After returning home and resuming the cares and 
position which you left behind for this trip, may you 
be filled with animation, life and health acquired by 
your excursion trip down the St. Lawrence, etc., and 
the pleasant memories of scenes witnessed, wonders 
visited, as well as the beauties of nature revealed, you 
will have double the vigor to prosecute the duties 
devolving upon you, with only spare time on hand to 
speak to your acquaintances and friends, recommend- 
ing them to make the same trip, not forgetting to 
mention The ^' Phat Boy's Racy description of the St. 
Lawrence River as a guide for hotel and all points of 
interest connected with the trip. I will now lift my 
hat to the tourist and others who have made the trip, 
and bid them a temporary farewell. Hoping to see* 
next vacation, yourself and friends, I only say 

ADIEU. 



TRAVELERS 

Down the St. Lawrence and 
all over the Earth, 

Are Liable to Contract some Kidney 

Disorder. 



They should always- carry zvith ^ ^ 
them the Great IW '^V^^C^^ 



..%v^^ 



\^^ r/^^ Great 

System Reg^Llator^ 

BLOOD TONIC AND 
PURIFIER. 

A World Famed Specific. 



,'■*■?;■■.; 



T, JL 



l|l 



'£i-.;; 



Patronized by Their Excellencies the GoVfennor General. of Canada 
and Countess of Dufferin.^ 




This Hotel, which is unrivaled for size, style and 
locality, in Quebec, is open through the year for 
pleasure and business travel, having accommodation 
for 500 visitors. 

It is eligibly situated in the immediate vicinity of 
the most delightful and fashionable promenades ; the 
Governor's Garden, the Citadel, the Esplanade, the 
Place d'Armes, Durham and Dufferin Terraces, 1400 
ft. long, and 200 ft. above the River St. Lawrence, 
which furnish the splendid views and magnificent 
scenery for which Quebec is so justly celebrated, and 
which is unsurpassed in any part of the world. 

WILLIAM E. RUSSELL, 

A/anap-er. 




i^^/ ^^^a^^/eU^^/^^ 





atskill rHountains, K. Y . 



RAILROAD DIRECT TO HOTEL. 



MccommndatEs 1300, Opsn Jure to 
. OctobEr, 



W. F. PAIGE, 



MANAGER. 




o(3o 




Winter Par^, Ria. 



OpEu January to May, RccammodatEs 

400. 



W. F. PAIGE, - - PROPRIETOR. 



A\ IJ8 ABLE r. HAS 



One of the Great Natural Wooders of tlie World, 



NO JO or EM OF FINE SC ENEMY SHOULD OMIT 
TO VISIT IT. 

Ausable Chasm is in Essex County, New York, on the west side of 
Lake Champlain. 



N. B. --Holders of through tickets passing Port Kent by 
rail or boat can obtain stop-over checks to visitthe Chasm. 



Tpv J T7- I on the Delaware & Hudson Co.'s R. R., the through route 

X (jxL IVcllL between New York and Canada, is the railroad station for 
Ausable Chasm, and is also a port on Lake Champlain, where all trains and steam- 
boats stop, and stages are always waiting for Ausable Chasm and Lake View 
House, Tourists will find by way of Port Kent, Ausable Chasm and Ausable 
Forks is the Best Foiiit for Entrance into er Exit from the A.dir- 
ondacTi Wilderness, it being as short and convenient as any, and by far the 
most beautiful and picturesque, presenting the opportanity to visit the far-famed 
Chasm. PASSENGERS GOING SOUTH on evening train, from Montreal 
can stop over at Port Kent in time for a hot supper, spend the night comfortably 
at the Lake View, and, with ample time to see the Chasm in tlie morning, go 
sonth that day through Lake George, or otherwise, at the same time as if they 
had stopped at Plattsburg or elsewhere. Stages leave and arrive daily between 
Lake View House, Ausable Forks and all parts of the woods. Parties of four or 
more may obtain private conveyances at regular stage fare. 

® ® LAKE VIEW HOaSE. ® ® 

Only first class Hotel at Chasm. Delightfully situated near Chasm entrance, 
commanding views of Lake Champlain, Adirondack and Green Mountains. 
Appointments first-class. Tables of the best— vegetables fresh from the hotel 
farm. Air remarkably dry and health-giving. No malaria. Every effort will be 
made to make this Hotel an attractive summer resort. 

LIBERAL TERMS TO PERMANENT GUESTS. 

Send for Circular and information. 

W. H. Tracy, 

Manager for Ausable Co. 



T l^i S AGAiyiopE, 



ox GREEN ISEANB, LAKE GEORGE. 



Connected with the Main Land by Bridge. Additions. 

TWO QUEEN ANN COTTAGES, FIFTY ROOMS FOR GUESTS, 
MAGNIFICENT EXTRA DINING ROOM, 

fllasic Hall and Ball t^oom. 

This splendid new hotel is open to guests from 

JUNK 23d Uisnrilv lOCTTOBKR 1st. 



IT IS SUPPLIED WITH 



PASSENGER ELEVATOR, ELECTRIC LIGHTS AND BELLS IN 

EVERY ROOM, AS WELL AS OTHER MODERN 

CONVENIENCES. 

Its Location the Finest on tlie Lalce 

THE TABLE IS EXCELLENT, 

THE SERVICE UNSURPASSED. 

Easy of access by Boats from the North or South, Baldwin or Caldwell, where 
trains with Palace Cars arrive from Saratoga, New York and intermediate points 
several times daily. 

- For Descriptive Circulars and Plan of Rooms, Address 

M. O. BROWN, 

Lessee and. Proprietor. 

Bolton Landing, Warren Co., Lake George. 




W. D GARRISON, MANAGER 



600 handsomely furnished rooms at $1.00 per day 
and upwards. European Plan. 

First-class Restaurant, Dining Rooms, Cafe and 
Lunch Counter, a la carte, at moderate prices. 

Guests' ^Baggage to and from Grand Central 
Depot free. 

Rooms where ladies and gentlemen may check 
valises, coats, parcels, etc., without charge. 

Travelers arriving via Grand Central Depot save 
Carriage-hire and Baggage Express by stopping 
at the Grand Union. 

Travelers can live well at the Grand Union for 
less money than at any other first-class hotel in 
New York. 



MURRAY HILL HOTEL 

Park Avenue, Fortieth and Forty-first Streets, New York. 

One Block from the GEAND CENTRAL DEPOT, 




N. B.— Guests of the Murray Hill Hotel have their baggage trans- 
ferred to and from the Grand Central Depot free of charge. 



■^y 



Wa\. S. Kimball & Co 



ROCHESTER, N. Y. 



MANUFACTURERS 



FRA&RilNT ITANITY FAIR, 



BnD Superlative Cigarettes. 




CUT 

TOBACCO. 



TOu^ 



IS^^ 



R^r> 



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KiMBALL's Straight Cut Cigarettes. 

Are exquisite in style. 
Are dainty, and carefully made. 
Are extremely mild and delicate. 
Are always uniform and up to standard. 
Are put up in satin and elegant boxes. 
Are unsurpassed for purity and excellence. 
Are specially adapted to people of refined taste. 
Are composed of only the finest Virginia and 
Turkish Leaf. 



14 FIRST PRIZE MEDALS. 



PEERLESS TOBACCO WORKS. 



KSTABI^ISHKD 1S46. 



